chain saw sharpening - square cut or round cut

[Carguy]

"if you don't have a log up on a timber jack, your hitting a rock as you cut trough it"

Have you tried rolling the log. I de-limb, cut about 3/4 of the way through, then roll the log to get the "bottom" off the ground and finish the cut.

 

[Nosferatu]

"if you don't have a log up on a timber jack, your hitting a rock as you cut trough it"

Have you tried rolling the log. I de-limb, cut about 3/4 of the way through, then roll the log to get the "bottom" off the ground and finish the cut.

I use one of these for bucking downed trees on the ground.

TimberPro - Log Lifter & Cant Hook

The TimberPro is a Log Lifter / Cant Hook. Lift and roll logs up to 20 inches, with ergonomic features to help you cut and keep your saw sharp. Made in the USA

woodchucktool.com

Otherwise I'm picking it up with the tractor or excavator and bucking it.

 

[Jay Walk]

Full comp chain with a square grind.

 

[dplev4]

I am careful not to cut into the soil since it will dull my chainsaw. I have a basic STIHL MS250 chainsaw with an 18" bar. Relatively inexpensive. I did buy a cutting helmet and some chainsaw gloves. I have not bought any chaps but I always wear long pants, work boots. I am just trimming some of the trees around our home every so often so they do not grow out of control. Anyone have an chainsaw sharping tool instead of files?

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/filing-tools/2in1file/

This is my exact set up. Works pretty well for me, too. Includes both round and flat files and works on both types of chain. Cause I use both types. No way I get six cords on one chain, but if definitely extends the life of the chain. Also can't always use a timber jack, so I'm in the dirt occasionally too. Just a reality of cutting downed timber.

 

[P7M13]

I guess your dirt is different than my dirt
my 036 24" bar Oregon chains will dull up after hitting the dirt after cutting one stump off at ground level
then I'm doing the work instead of the chainsaw to cut off the next stump
yes, it will still cut, but your doing a lot more manual labor than with a sharp chain
and a dull chain creates a lot of friction - heat on the bar
if your getting smoke off your bar - your chain is FOOOCKED

Amateur wood cutter here. All my saws (16", 20" & 30") are semi chisel and I just use a round file by hand. Having the right diameter round file for your chain pitch is important. Having a sharp file is also critical.
I don't measure the rake to see if it needs filing, I watch the cutting rate and file the rake when the speed drops to the point of needing to assist the saw or the chip sizes get smaller.
If I hit dirt and gravel (done both), I'll sharpen if I dulled it.
I saw a log roller at a garage sale a few months back. I regret not buying it.

 

[Provincial]

Lots of great information in this thread!

If you are cutting wood near a gravel road, the bark is imbedded with dust raised by the traffic in dry weather. Loggers who are bucking on a landing supplied by skidded logs develop a habit of cutting through the bark with the tip of the saw just enough to get through the bark. They then enlarge the cut, using the bottom of the bar in order for each tooth to enter through the kerf and exit in a manner that is pulling outward through the bark. That seems to reduce the wear when cutting dirty logs.

When doing this, keep an eye on the chips ejected from the cut. Fir bark is darker than the wood, and experienced buckers can tell when the tip of the cut has entered the bark. They then stay just inside the bark with the cut.

I use a Stihl MS260 (newer version of the 026) with chisel chain and a 20" bar for up to 12" diameter wood. I use a Stihl 044 with a 24" bar for up to 24" wood, and both saws run full compliment chisel chain. Really big wood is cut with the 044 and a 30" bar and skip tooth chain.

I invested in a pro grade chisel chain grinder 35 years ago, and while it probably didn't make sense money-wise, it makes chains cut really well, and I can salvage a chain with wear or damage that otherwise would be scrapped. If you figure the time I've saved, and the fact that I've cut most of my firewood with the smaller saw (which avoided much wear and tear on my body), I've probably come out ahead.

I don't recall if anyone has mentioned that touching up your chain with a few strokes of a file each time you refuel can make a chipper (round tooth) chain cut enough better to be worth the effort. It takes a lot of skill to use a file on a chisel chain, and many grinders leave a hardened edge that resists the file. This also wears out the file pretty quickly.

 

[rjmt]

Lots of great information in this thread!

If you are cutting wood near a gravel road, the bark is imbedded with dust raised by the traffic in dry weather. Loggers who are bucking on a landing supplied by skidded logs develop a habit of cutting through the bark with the tip of the saw just enough to get through the bark. They then enlarge the cut, using the bottom of the bar in order for each tooth to enter through the kerf and exit in a manner that is pulling outward through the bark. That seems to reduce the wear when cutting dirty logs.

When doing this, keep an eye on the chips ejected from the cut. Fir bark is darker than the wood, and experienced buckers can tell when the tip of the cut has entered the bark. They then stay just inside the bark with the cut.

I use a Stihl MS260 (newer version of the 026) with chisel chain and a 20" bar for up to 12" diameter wood. I use a Stihl 044 with a 24" bar for up to 24" wood, and both saws run full compliment chisel chain. Really big wood is cut with the 044 and a 30" bar and skip tooth chain.

I invested in a pro grade chisel chain grinder 35 years ago, and while it probably didn't make sense money-wise, it makes chains cut really well, and I can salvage a chain with wear or damage that otherwise would be scrapped. If you figure the time I've saved, and the fact that I've cut most of my firewood with the smaller saw (which avoided much wear and tear on my body), I've probably come out ahead.

I don't recall if anyone has mentioned that touching up your chain with a few strokes of a file each time you refuel can make a chipper (round tooth) chain cut enough better to be worth the effort. It takes a lot of skill to use a file on a chisel chain, and many grinders leave a hardened edge that resists the file. This also wears out the file pretty quickly.

for my chisel tips on the 036, I take my chains to the shop in Woodland
I'm just working on my round cut 14" and 18" bar chainsaws

 

[Nosferatu]

I use a Stihl MS260 (newer version of the 026)

I use an MS261 as my primary working saw. It had the highest power to weight ratio I could find and is an absolute workhorse without wearing me out. It seems like a lot of people use too much saw for daily chores.

I stepped down from the 20" bar to an 18" bar and it's even more nimble. This is the saw that goes everywhere with me.

 

[gmerkt]

I fall into the novice / amateur category. When I moved onto my wooded property close to 4 decades ago, I was given a Homelite saw. I spent more time trying to get that thing to run than I spent cutting wood. Then I discovered Stihl. That was like the difference between Fiat and Buick. Since then, I've had a Stihl MS 180 and MS 290. They've required little effort to keep them going. I don't cut often, but when I do it's usually a (for me) big firewood project. I don't want to go out, pull the cord and find out the machine doesn't run. I want it to run right away when needed and that describes my experience with the Stihl product.

Running right away first thing out of the box in an emergency situation is what you want with a chain saw. Because when you need it, you REALLY need it.

My saws came with round cut chain teeth. I assume most homeowner-type saws have this configuration. The basic chains, I'd say. I use files to touch them up. Serious damage needs to go to the saw shop or be replaced. Which these days is about a toss-up. Sharpening costs about $10 to $12. But I can buy a knock-off chain online, free shipping, for about the same amount. I'm not ashamed to say I've bought a few knock-off, made-in-China chains. And for me, they've worked out.
Yes, keep the chain out of the dirt. If the dirt is peaty, you're gonna be okay. But you never know what's gonna be in dirt. A rock or rocks will foul up a chain no doubt. I don't have a log lifter; I used to see Peavys for sale at the swap meet but never bought one. I should've. Mostly, I roll a log. Sometimes, I will use a lever of some kind. Once in a while, I've actually dug clearance on the dirt site to keep the chain out of it. Climbing isn't in my skill set, so my work is always with felled logs.

Yes, get a second bar. Which I haven't done yet in all the years but I still think about it. I've got the plastic wedges. But I've still gotten a bar stuck a couple of times. I keep several spare chains for both saws. If you're into preparing for emergency, you can't be running around looking for chains when / if that happens.

Hand files for sharpening are an expendable item. They are like paper towels or Kleenex; they don't last forever. But I do use every inch of them all the way to both ends before they get thrown away.

Lots of good stuff here about saws that others have posted.

I've got a couple of Stihl leaf blowers too. Wonderful machines, for as long as the Communists will allow us to use them.

 

[rjmt]

I use an MS261 as my primary working saw. It had the highest power to weight ratio I could find and is an absolute workhorse without wearing me out. It seems like a lot of people use too much saw for daily chores.

I stepped down from the 20" bar to an 18" bar and it's even more nimble. This is the saw that goes everywhere with me.

I put a round cut chain on my 036 last spring, just because i had it laying around
found out again why i switched to skip tooth chisel point 24 years ago
have a new chisel tip in the package to put on before I start cutting stumps for the stump grinder

I use an MS261 as my primary working saw. It had the highest power to weight ratio I could find and is an absolute workhorse without wearing me out. It seems like a lot of people use too much saw for daily chores.

I stepped down from the 20" bar to an 18" bar and it's even more nimble. This is the saw that goes everywhere with me.

I settled on a 24" bar on my 036
I'm 5'7" tall and with a 24" bar I can stand up straight and cut without hitting the ground
I acquired a timber jack 3 years ago which helps a lot, no more ground strikes unless I'm cutting off stumps at ground level

 

[rjmt]

I fall into the novice / amateur category. When I moved onto my wooded property close to 4 decades ago, I was given a Homelite saw. I spent more time trying to get that thing to run than I spent cutting wood. Then I discovered Stihl. That was like the difference between Fiat and Buick. Since then, I've had a Stihl MS 180 and MS 290. They've required little effort to keep them going. I don't cut often, but when I do it's usually a (for me) big firewood project. I don't want to go out, pull the cord and find out the machine doesn't run. I want it to run right away when needed and that describes my experience with the Stihl product.

Running right away first thing out of the box in an emergency situation is what you want with a chain saw. Because when you need it, you REALLY need it.

My saws came with round cut chain teeth. I assume most homeowner-type saws have this configuration. The basic chains, I'd say. I use files to touch them up. Serious damage needs to go to the saw shop or be replaced. Which these days is about a toss-up. Sharpening costs about $10 to $12. But I can buy a knock-off chain online, free shipping, for about the same amount. I'm not ashamed to say I've bought a few knock-off, made-in-China chains. And for me, they've worked out.
Yes, keep the chain out of the dirt. If the dirt is peaty, you're gonna be okay. But you never know what's gonna be in dirt. A rock or rocks will foul up a chain no doubt. I don't have a log lifter; I used to see Peavys for sale at the swap meet but never bought one. I should've. Mostly, I roll a log. Sometimes, I will use a lever of some kind. Once in a while, I've actually dug clearance on the dirt site to keep the chain out of it. Climbing isn't in my skill set, so my work is always with felled logs.

Yes, get a second bar. Which I haven't done yet in all the years but I still think about it. I've got the plastic wedges. But I've still gotten a bar stuck a couple of times. I keep several spare chains for both saws. If you're into preparing for emergency, you can't be running around looking for chains when / if that happens.

Hand files for sharpening are an expendable item. They are like paper towels or Kleenex; they don't last forever. But I do use every inch of them all the way to both ends before they get thrown away.

Lots of good stuff here about saws that others have posted.

I've got a couple of Stihl leaf blowers too. Wonderful machines, for as long as the Communists will allow us to use them.

the low end Oregon chains are now made in China, I'll call them cost effective

 

[rjmt]

I got 6 Coastal Redwood seedling in the ground today - my soil temp is 40 deg
planted 20' apart
you're all invited over in about 1000 years to see how they're doing
I planted a redwood 22 years ago on a whim - it's probably 30' tall now
so I know they can grow here on the North Fork

 

[Stomper]

I got 6 Coastal Redwood seedling in the ground today - my soil temp is 40 deg
planted 20' apart
you're all invited over in about 1000 years to see how they're doing
I planted a redwood 22 years ago on a whim - it's probably 30' tall now
so I know they can grow here on the North Fork

Ya know what? Imma call your bluff on them Coastal Redwoods….. in 1,000 years.

 

[rjmt]

Ya know what? Imma call your bluff on them Coastal Redwoods….. in 1,000 years.

except the Liberals say the earth will no longer support human life due to Climate Change by then
the trees will adapt, but, according to the Liberals, Humans will not
we know that the Neanderthals adapted to climate change for 130,000 years and since I'm blood line to the Neanderthal, hopefully my descendants will also

 

[gmerkt]

I got 6 Coastal Redwood seedling in the ground today - my soil temp is 40 deg
planted 20' apart
you're all invited over in about 1000 years to see how they're doing
I planted a redwood 22 years ago on a whim - it's probably 30' tall now
so I know they can grow here on the North Fork

I've done the same thing here. I've filled spaces up with Giant Sequoia. They are native to the Sierra Nevada range which is drier that our weather here. Give Sequoia our water and they grow twice as fast. Mine here grow 18 to 24 inches per year.

 

[gmerkt]

I got 6 Coastal Redwood seedling in the ground today - my soil temp is 40 deg

A couple of weeks ago, I planted eight new trees at one of my daughter's places. They were volunteers that came up here. About half Douglas fir, half western red cedar. Around 12 or 13 years ago, I planted about the same number there and now they are fine trees, maybe 25 feet or more tall. Now I wish I'd completed the job at that time, I'd have a finished row of trees. But at that time, part of this area was completely overgrown with entwined blackberries. Last summer, I spent a couple of hours a week clearing all that out. And reclaiming the space. Including some for new trees. The rest I'm going to plant in vining vegetables. There is also a lane of ground alongside her barn-like garage that gets a lot of sun. I've got some lupine seed that I'm going to sew along in there; maybe get some flowers in a couple of years.

There is also a storage building back in there. The metal roof got caved in and the rafters broke, then water got in and rotted some of the framing. I have plans of tearing out the bad stuff and putting it back together. That is another summer project.

 

[Stomper]

except the Liberals say the earth will no longer support human life due to Climate Change by then
the trees will adapt, but, according to the Liberals, Humans will not
we know that the Neanderthals adapted to climate change for 130,000 years and since I'm blood line to the Neanderthal, hopefully my descendants will also

If liberal-progressives were TRUELY sincere about saving the whales and the entire planet….. they'd all kill themselves by the end of this week.

 

[rjmt]

I've done the same thing here. I've filled spaces up with Giant Sequoia. They are native to the Sierra Nevada range which is drier that our weather here. Give Sequoia our water and they grow twice as fast. Mine here grow 18 to 24 inches per year.

now, here is a common misunderstanding
Giant Sequoia and Coastal Redwoods are not the same tree

 

[Provincial]

I chose the 026/MS260 because it is the smallest Stihl saw rated as Pro and that would take a 3/8" chain. Pro saws are just that. Worth the extra money.

The only criticism I have of the 026/MS260 is the air cleaner. It isn't as big as the larger Pro saws, and needs regular cleaning. I always keep a serviced spare with me when working, and swap one out after a day's work.

 

[gmerkt]

Giant Sequoia and Coastal Redwoods are not the same tree

Yes, I understand. They are in the same family, Cupressales, but not the same tree. But I do have a coastal redwood that I planted about 17 years ago. When I said, "I'm doing the same thing," I meant planting trees. But not the same kind.

We've got mostly native trees here. Western red cedar (a false cedar), big leaf maple, Douglas fir, western hemlock. I've introduced coastal redwood, giant sequoia, cryptomeria, incense cedar (another false cedar), and a few others. I've got a couple of true cedars (Cedrus deodara) that I've grown from seed coming along. I was over at a neighbor's place some years ago, it was freezing weather with snow and ice on the ground. He had three deodar cedars. I noticed some cones on the ground in the leaf litter. The cones were black and falling apart, yet when I opened one up, I found that the seeds were starting to germinate. I didn't think that would happen in freezing weather but I took some home and got two trees out of it.

One tree I introduced was a mistake. I planted it over 30 years ago, it was a Leyland cypress. Early last year, I took it down. It was of an invasive nature, shallow but wide-spreading root system, outgrew everything around it. Grew like a giant weed. I put it in, I figured it was my right to take it down. At one time, they were a popular landscaping tree but once they get over 20 feet tall, take them out. I have one other Monterey cypress that I'm keeping a close eye on but it has so far shown to be a much slower grower than the Leyland (which is a hybrid between a Monterey and a Nootka cypress.