chain saw sharpening - square cut or round cut

[rjmt]

if someone needs or wants to survive after SHTF, or even during a severe winter storm like we just had - then you need a chainsaw
your choice of chainsaw is like your choice of firearm - not the intent of this thread
now, to keep that chainsaw working, you need to sharpen the chain after every use
I recently purchased an electric chain sharpener, and it does a square cut
my Oregon Chain sharpening kit does a round cut with files
which do you find best??
and they are not interchangeable - if you have a square cut, you can't resharpen in the field with a round file

do you use a timber jack?
if you chain hits the dirt even once, you've ruined your chain

and a chain saw vise
I just found a strap on vice that will mount on the tail gate of my RTV - just ordered it today

Chain-Saw Filing Vise - Lee Valley Tools

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[Koda]

Much easier to just replace the entire chain with a spare. Spares a super cheap.

 

[Nosferatu]

I just use the basic Stihl files.

 

[saxon]

if your chain say is in 45 don't use a 9mm to sharpen it....
I.E. round chain vs square cut chain.
also your chain is not "ruined" if you hit the dirt with it..... lord knows the 056 with the 30 bar hit enough dirt to tell a totally different story then "ruined"

 

[rjmt]

I just use the basic Stihl files.

yes, and how do you hold your chainsaw down while you file?
most often I'm down in the woods hundreds of yards from my workshop when I need to resharpen
if you go through a log and into sandy soil just once, or hit one rock, your chain is ruined
it's $40 for replacement chain for a 24" bar

 

[Nosferatu]

Much easier to just replace the entire chain with a spare. Spares a super cheap.

Depends. I only use full-chisel chains on my felling saws and skip-tooth chains for my milling saw. That can get spendy if you're replacing them constantly. The key is to not let them get dull. I run a file over them when I'm done for the day, which only takes 10 minutes or so. If I'm doing a lot of cutting, I'll swap chains during the day and make sure to clean & sharpen them at the end of the day.

 

[Nosferatu]

yes, and how do you hold your chainsaw down while you file?
most often I'm down in the woods hundreds of yards from my workshop when I need to resharpen
if you go through a log and into sandy soil just once, or hit one rock, your chain is ruined
it's $40 for replacement chain for a 24" bar

Sometimes on a stump or camp table, but typically while sitting on the ground with the saw in my lap. I don't have a workshop on the property yet, everything is done "in the woods".

I have a couple of these, but don't use them all the time. https://www.amazon.com/OREGON-26368...5802874&sprefix=chain+saw+vise,aps,194&sr=8-1

And no, your chain isn't automatically ruined if you hit dirt or a rock, only if you continue to run through it, yes, you'll destroy it. Just nicking stuff isn't going to ruin it though.

 

[rjmt]

if your chain say is in 45 don't use a 9mm to sharpen it....
I.E. round chain vs square cut chain.
also your chain is not "ruined" if you hit the dirt with it..... lord knows the 056 with the 30 bar hit enough dirt to tell a totally different story then "ruined"

I guess your dirt is different than my dirt
my 036 24" bar Oregon chains will dull up after hitting the dirt after cutting one stump off at ground level
then I'm doing the work instead of the chainsaw to cut off the next stump
yes, it will still cut, but your doing a lot more manual labor than with a sharp chain
and a dull chain creates a lot of friction - heat on the bar
if your getting smoke off your bar - your chain is FOOOCKED

 

[Tlock]

Don't rock it! I hand file and keep files one me.....I can say I have never rocked a chain

 

[Val1884]

Chisel cut. I can get 6 cords in average per chain. Peevee's exist for a reason.

 

[rjmt]

Depends. I only use full-chisel chains on my felling saws and skip-tooth chains for my milling saw. That can get spendy if you're replacing them constantly. The key is to not let them get dull. I run a file over them when I'm done for the day, which only takes 10 minutes or so. If I'm doing a lot of cutting, I'll swap chains during the day and make sure to clean & sharpen them at the end of the day.

I've talked to the big timber loggers who live on my road
they go into the woods with 2 chainsaws and 4 chains every day
spend the evening sharpening chains for the next day

now skip tooth chisel point square tip and round tip is another discussion
I've read skip tooth square ground chisel points are faster than round ground - never tested this myself
I have a shop in Woodland sharpen my chisel point square ground chains
they even make custom chains for my 036 - but as you say - not cheep

how do you hand sharpen your full chisel chains?

 

[Tlock]

Chisel cut. I can get 6 cords in average per chain. Peevee's exist for a reason.

Amen!

 

[rjmt]

Don't rock it! I hand file and keep files one me.....I can say I have never rocked a chain

I just bought a stump grinder - will be cutting a lot of stumps off at ground level to use this new tool
I must have at least 20 stumps that need to be cut at ground level to use the stump grinder

 

[Nosferatu]

how do you hand sharpen your full chisel chains?

one tooth at a time.

 

[Koda]

Depends. I only use full-chisel chains on my felling saws and skip-tooth chains for my milling saw. That can get spendy if you're replacing them constantly. The key is to not let them get dull. I run a file over them when I'm done for the day, which only takes 10 minutes or so. If I'm doing a lot of cutting, I'll swap chains during the day and make sure to clean & sharpen them at the end of the day.

10 minutes a day isnt bad but technically adds up.

But seems like a lot of the replies here are forgetting the SHTF part. In an emergency its probably prudent to save time and also do other things... assuming one already has a wood supply... you probably only need a chainsaw for emergency tasks, a tree fell on a house or blocking a road. A replacement chain is also a good spare part.

 

[rjmt]

one tooth at a time.

HA HA funny fellow

 

[CO136]

My Joe-Homeowner experience with this stuff...

Run 20+ yr old Stihl 044 & 029. Use the 029 (with 25" bar) for little stuff, 044 (with 32" bar) for bigger wood. Both started with chisel tooth. I round file both once I have creamed the original profile 'cause I ain't felling wood, I'm cutting firewood that's on the ground and is potentially dirty. Done hit the dirt 2 or 6 times with both (ain't never rocked one). My experience is the round file will take more abuse with the stuff I do. If I'm close to the truck I round file on the tailgate (use gloves), a firewood round will work if not. Important to knock the rakers down as well. I got a raker gauge but quit using it long time ago. Just grab a flat file, knock 'em down, make the saw hungry (gotta watch the RPM and keep it high). Important to file the chain equally on both sides as the cut may not be straight through the log.

I haven't been inclined to invest in much sharpening setups. Round files have worked pretty good for me over the years.

 

[rjmt]

Don't rock it! I hand file and keep files one me.....I can say I have never rocked a chain

this photo was taken of our stream several days ago
see all those 6" smooth rock in the stream?
that is what my property is like just 2" under the top soil
if you don't have a log up on a timber jack, your hitting a rock as you cut trough it
if your cutting off a stump at ground level to use the stump grinder, your going to hit a rock
according to USGS, my property is on top of a Frasier age glacier moraine left by the Yacolt Glacier, a glacier stalled on my property and dropped all these round rocks before it retreated up the Lewis River Valley
the front acre where we garden is clear, but just 100 yrds from the house, it's pure glacier tumbled stones

 

[TT37]

The key is to not let them get dull.

Saw chain comes in two popular tooth shapes, Square tooth and Round tooth.

Round tooth chain should only be sharpened with a round grind. If you are using a file, a file guide will help align the file with the front cutting edge, where the cut takes place.

Square tooth chain can be sharpened either round grind, like round tooth chain, or chisel (square) grind.

Chisel ground chain cuts more efficiently. It takes a special grinder to make a chisel grind, Silvey and Simington used to make some. Some people use a 'goofy' file to hand sharpen chisel ground chain, but it's an art.

Chisel ground square tooth chain can be reground round, with a file or other, if needed in a pinch.

If your saw is making dust , it needs sharpened. Continuing to use a
dull chain wastes potential. It will need sharpened more, removing more metal than if you sharpen it right away. The time sharpening will be offset with better, faster cutting and less wear on the saw, bar, chain, and sprockets.

After sharpening the tooth, remember to adjust the rakers. If you have to push the cut, your rakers need filed. The rakers determine the depth of cut. A sharp tooth with zero depth of cut gets little done. You can use a flat file and a guide. The rakers should be 0.025" lower than the cutting edge of the tooth (except Stihl mini chain). Removing too much raker may make the saw dangerous.

A properly serviced chain will produce chips without having to push.

I recommend square tooth chain, chisel ground, for the professional user. For novice users, round tooth chain with a round grind will be more forgiving and easy to sharpen with a round file.

And remember, the chain only cuts when it's moving. It's about chain speed. Forcing a saw slows it down, reducing cutting speed and increasing wear. Service your chain and let the saw do the work.

Extra chains are great. If one gets dull, you can just swap it out and you're back to work. Sharpen the dull one later.

Also, consider sprocket wear. Rotate through several chains as the sprocket wears. The chains and sprocket then wear out around the same time. Replace the sprocket and buy new chains. They work best with new chains on a new sprocket and used chain on a worn sprocket.

You might also consider an extra bar, in case you get one stuck. Just unmount your powerhead, mount your extra bar and chain, then cut
the stuck one out.

Chainsaws can go wrong in so many ways. If I have to drive, I always bring two saws. Wedges are helpful.

I know this was long winded, but it just slipped out. Thanks for your patience, time, and consideration.

 

[Tony617]

I am careful not to cut into the soil since it will dull my chainsaw. I have a basic STIHL MS250 chainsaw with an 18" bar. Relatively inexpensive. I did buy a cutting helmet and some chainsaw gloves. I have not bought any chaps but I always wear long pants, work boots. I am just trimming some of the trees around our home every so often so they do not grow out of control. Anyone have an chainsaw sharping tool instead of files?

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/filing-tools/2in1file/