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Most foods in #10 cans have a shelf life of 20+ years. One cannot get that long of a shelf life with vacuum sealing. With mylar bags and vacuumed sealed bags, they then often stored in food grade buckets.

Thanks, figured there had to be a reason someone would use the cans instead. Any idea how long the vacuum bagging lasts? I have one survival bucket that is supposed to be good for over 2 decades. It's in some kind of plastic bags. Bought it to just set aside and forget just in case. The stuff I buy in the #10 cans the idea is to rotate it out every few years. Tried a few things and found stuff I like enough to make meals out of to use up as I replace. The 25 year stuff I figure if I'm still around that far from now I will toss it. Chances are my kids will get that when they clean the place out. :)
What's involved in doing the #10 can thing? Until reading this I had no idea there was such a thing as doing this at home.
 
Speaking only for myself,
I for one appreciate a straight answer , after asking a honest question.
Computers , are not my thing ... and any time I can get a answer without being told to look it up , it makes life easier.
Andy

I do this a lot, and I do mean a LOT, just because I'm lazy. I know I could find the answers to most anything asked. Just easier to ask and let some who already know tell me. :)
 
Alexx1401 I recommend taking classes in food preservation ( AKA Canning) and get certified. You can start out with a relatively low cost investment in equipment, and as your experience and skills evolve, you can add to it, and you can preserve more complex foods and other things that take care in handling and preserving! Doing this will allow you so many more options then eating MRE's and other pre prepared commercial food stuffs, and it way cheaper too! Finally, you can deal with any food issues you or family may have, you can fine tune recipes that you and yours like and doing all that, you and yours will actually enjoy eating from your preps, not just merely surviving on them! That puts you at the top 1% of people actually prepared to survive!:)
 
I do this a lot, and I do mean a LOT, just because I'm lazy. I know I could find the answers to most anything asked. Just easier to ask and let some who already know tell me. :)

I assume also that I might not be the only one unfamiliar with some of the more abstract references in some threads and by asking the question it puts the answer in the thread for everyone to read.

I've been programming and building computers for about 35 years now so I am fairly versed in search engines:D:rolleyes:
 
A friend recently acquired the capability to seal #10 cans. He's bought a supply of new can and is still playing around with the concept. He offered me the opportunity to do a few cans of my own. I must admit I'm very interested.

What would you pack in a #10 can if you could choose the contents?

My preliminary thoughts are a #10 can would be good for stuff that must stay one or more of these:
1. Oxygen free
2. Dry
3. Sterile
4. Clean

A few other considerations:
1. A #10 can is essentially a single-use item. Once breached, the advantage is largely (but not totally) lost.
2. What can it offer that a GI ammo can or vacuum-packing in a plastic bag does not?

Currently, ammo goes in steel USGI ammo cans. Most emergency med supplies go in vacuum-sealed bags. Electronics (wrapped in aluminum foil/butchers paper/aluminum foil triple wrap) go into a grounded (!) large steel ammo can that should function as a Ferriday cage. Most storage food goes into mylar bags with an oxygen absorber in plastic 5-gallon buckets or mason jars for smaller amounts.

So what is left that makes sense to use #10 cans?
I think some matches, primers or powder. Mostly the primers.
 
Gunpowder? Primers?

Nah. Keep them in the original containers.

Keep a bunch of primers, OEM boxed, in a coleman cooler, with nothing on top of the lid. Suppose I could put a few desicants in the cooler with them.

Never put powder & primers in another container that doesn't have some way of popping open.

Powders I just keep in the original cans. On a shelf. Lids closed well.

As to the question of what to can in #10 cans, can't honestly think of much we could safely do economically. Rice, beans, grains are about all.

Sugar & salt in buckets, sealed from vermin should never go bad.

Brown sugar, maybe. But if you have molasses & white sugar put up, you can make brown.
 
Thought this was GOOGLE for guns and preparadness.

As far as the #10 can goes. (thanks @Joe13 I had no clue either) Vodka yep looks like the perfect serving size to mix two drinks for me and the wife. And god knows that if the SHTF you will need that drink!!:D
 
#10 cans are the large cans you typically see used in restaurants. Personally, I would not see a need to use them to store ammunition, possibly powder and primers ...... but not complete cartridges.

#10 cans are excellent for "dry packing" in conjunction with oxygen absorbers. Items such a beans, wheat, flour, sugar, powdered milk, cornmeal, rolled oats, powdered eggs would all be excellent candidates for "dry packing".

Oxygen absorbers come in different sizes, typically for "dry packing" they are 200cc and 500cc ... link to an example:
Oxygen Absorbers - Z500 - P041 (100 per bag)

Oxygen absorbers can also be used in 5 gallon buckets. I think it's 1500cc-2000cc per five gallon bucket.

If you have access to sealing #10 cans, take full advantage of it. Also, many of these sealers have attachments that allow you to seal smaller cans sizes. I like the durability and longevity of the #10 can over food saver plastic bags. Though, if the food saver plastic bags are then also sealed in 5 gallon buckets, you have a well protected bagged food.

Though food grade mylar bags, oxygen absorbers and a plain old iron will allow you to "dry pack" without a can sealer. Again, placing the mylar bags in 5 gallon buckets for additiona protection.
 
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