JavaScript is disabled
Our website requires JavaScript to function properly. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser settings before proceeding.
Are you using a case length gauge to verify chamber fit and if not have you randomly checked loaded rounds in the pistol itself. Are you using a factory crimp die or ? I use a factory crimp to help avoid set back as well as bulging.View attachment 229569

I don't have a case gauge (I'll get one), but haven't run into any chambering issues.

I have a FCD, though I've never used it (only crimping .357).

I'll check OAL after chambering, and crimp the next batch (I'll duplicate the pictured loads).

Thanks deadeye.
 
Careful with the crimp, as it head spaces off the case rim.....really only should need a slight taper crimp.......on a non cantilure projo it's really just neck tension for setback

Just load a couple dummy rounds with no primer/powder to check set back ....really yard on the slide hard to simulate a full cycle
 
I loaded 3 dummy rounds to the specs used in the picture below, and cycled them through the gun 3 times each, letting the slide go from it's rear most position.

Two rnds maintained their OAL of 1.241, one shortened to 1.235.

10mm-1_zpsoxu1aqo9.jpg
 
I wonder if the firing pin is crazy lightweight or something and is hitting the primers so hard/fast/deep that that it weakens the primer cup such that the strikes can be ironed out like that and then be ultimately ruptured/pierced without any other normal evidence of high pressure.
Very interesting. And bad (lol). I'd for sure make sure the firing pin etc. (retaining plate thickness etc.) is to spec. I'd also probably seat just a primer into a pocket and pop that to see if it looks normal and doesn't make a dent way deeper than normal. I'd think even a fired but "flattened" primer as pictured would also serve.. perhaps even better than a live primer as those can back out and cause more head scratching.
 
at this point I would like to see what factory rounds look like....I'm leaning to the pistol being out of spec

do you know history of your brass ?.....shot out ...losing neck tension

To me just the fact you had any set back can be an indicator of more set back

studding your brass again, none of the primers look remotely acceptable

you could load weak, just enough to get the bullet out of the barrel. If the primer looks like its caving in the cup as opposed to punching a crater then something is up with the firing pin, firing pin channel, firing pin spring .....slight possibility of headspace issues

it just dosent seem that your doing anything wrong in your reloading.
I have never trimmed a 10mm brass in all my life, shot thousands....split cases, punched out the web.....gross overloads and never seen a primer like yours, in fact I have never seen anything like your doing other than the pierced primers and that was on rifle cartridges
 
oli700

The brass stamped Norma is from factory loaded ammo fired in the Parker, remainder is 'once fired' from various sources. I do have some new Starline that I could add into the mix.

Brass has been loaded 4 times, and no issues with neck tension or primer pockets - no split cases.

If it's helpful I could load a 'ladder' and catalog the cases.

I do have a few boxes of Norma 170 & 200gr, along with some Blazer 200gr, 200gr Black Talons, & Winchester 175gr Silver tips.

I haven't seen 10mm on the store shelves in a long time, so I guess I'll shoot some of what I have.
 
I think that will tell us a lot. The Blazer should roughly be average 40S&W pressure and power , if you see any abnormalities with those, your weapon needs something done

Norma should be close to full boat
Black Talon a little weaker
Winchester ST's should be like hot 40 S&W
 
More issues...

Cleaning the gun today I noticed what's pictured below - When the gun locks up, the extractor is hitting the barrel. At purchase I cleaned it, this condition did not exist then. Approximately 200rnds later...

I bring this up here to see if it could have any impact on what we've been discussing.

Yes, I'll go buy a Glock... But I'm stubborn, and IF the issues with THIS gun can be resolved :)

Thanks guys

BE1_zpstkgalpen.jpg

BE2_zpsdc1tuyyo.jpg

BE3_zpsdjtptc13.jpg

BE4_zpsubuq4zsv.jpg
 
If it wasn't locking up every time wouldn't there be brass (every piece in this thread has been loaded four times) issues?
Not at all, at least in my opinion. You can see how far the disconnector will allow it to fire out of battery by holding the slide back a bit and trying to dry fire it.. it should be almost zero. That hank a metal could easily be keeping it from full lockup but if the disconnector is perfect it'd not be able to fire.
And 200 rounds to do that? wow. Something is up.
If a gun fires out of battery a bit, the primer will back up since it can/has to and could conceivably smash the firing pin intendation flat etc.
 
Looking at the brass (I used as a snap cap) to test the disconnect, I see firing pin strikes center and off center. The pics back on page 1 show this, and I thought it was firing pin slop.

Seems more likely the gun isn't fully locked up.
 

Upcoming Events

Teen Rifle 1 Class
Springfield, OR
Kids Firearm Safety 2 Class
Springfield, OR

New Resource Reviews

New Classified Ads

Back Top