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Can you save money, you bet your "insert most valuable possesions here". a few folks can hit a liter pop jug at 100 yds. I can shoot the cap off of that pop bottle. :s0033:
and then how many can hit that quarter at 200y? You have now taken the original milk jug at 100 of that 10% and taken another 1% of that number to find those people.
 
Have 2 manuals on the way.the one that comes with the kit and a Lyman,plan on spending a good week just reading them over and asking questions on here.well maybe a couple days,I'm really excited to start making my own rounds.

Both manuals will teach you a lot, as will all the knowledge on the board, and there is a lot of it. And as @Dyjital said, if you just have a quick question I, or he, or probably others, would be happy to answer in a convo if you don't want to make a thread.
 
Both manuals will teach you a lot, as will all the knowledge on the board, and there is a lot of it. And as @Dyjital said, if you just have a quick question I, or he, or probably others, would be happy to answer in a convo if you don't want to make a thread.
Yes, you can put me on your PM list also. Big picture it looks like a calculus class getting started, but really, if you read the tutorial in a manual, set up your press and bench per instructions, and focus on one caliber you'll be popping out safe, quality ammunition in short order. Also a lot of us have the same press you are getting so no worries your in good shape:).
 
I didn't read all the way to the end of the posts, so forgive me if this has already been explained to your satisfaction.

Case gauges tell you if your setup is putting out correctly sized finished loads. I check each and every finished shell against the known parameters of a case gauge. Some folks will use the barrel of the pistol but I find the case gauge easier and more of a complete visualization. It checks width, overall length (OAL), and gives you a chance to check primer seating by either visual or running a finger across the base of the cartridge.

Speaking of OAL, the FMJ will be different than the HP. Just check the manual. Each bullet type used say in 9mm will have a specific OAL listed by the manufacturer or by the reloading manual. One interesting thing is that because of different bullets shapes, not all 9mm bullets in a given weight say 115gr will have the same length recommended. Say you change from using Speers to using Hornady. You have to look it up and not just assume they are all the same. This is good advice for every aspect of reloading. Never assume. Always look things up when you change bullets or powders. Pistol cases or primers, not so much.

I'll probably start with a good name brand,but afterwards if i start ordering bullets online will each company send a chart for reloading there bullets?
 
I'll probably start with a good name brand,but afterwards if i start ordering bullets online will each company send a chart for reloading there bullets?

No, as far as I know.

I figure quality jacketed bullets are close enough, so I don't worry about finding specific data for different brands. Bullet weight yes, brand no. Say comparing Montana Gold with Hornady. Plated bullets are another category closer related to straight lead/cast bullets. Say, comparing "Berry's" to "Rainier Balistics". I have heard plated bullet suppliers will recommend using data for cast bullets. Pushing plated bullets to high/maximum velocities may peel the plating off when fired.

When I started in 2011 I looked at data and bought powders that gave me the most choice for calibers, AND that had the widest spread of charge weights per caliber. For instance, I left TiteGroup pretty quick for 9mm and went to W231, and now use HS-6.

When I started I really liked looking at powder burn rate charts. It helped me to understand what was going on in various sized cases, bullet weights and barrel lengths.

Good Times!
 
I like TG in 45 auto but not in 9mm, found BE-86 works pretty good in the 9mm. TG lites up pretty quick for hi pressure stuff, gotta be careful.

Saving $$?? No, but.... Once you have all your supplies (may take a while to get a stock pile), anytime you want to shoot you just go to the 'store' and make what you want. And what you make is what you want to shoot, not whatever's in the box. You get to experiment with different charge and bullet weights, find out what runs best in a particular gun, learn A LOT, play with all kinds of bullets and best of all, shoot a lot more for the same $$. Your head will explode with lots of new terminology, you'll start to understand the WHY and WHAT IF. You'll feel more informed talking with folks about bullets, ballistics, burn rates, SD, BC, etc, etc. You'll begin to become and enlightened shooter :) Reloading is a progression of the sport of shooting for those who 'get into it'. It answers a lot of the questions that come up with when you start to shoot a lot, if you didn't shoot a lot you probably wouldn't care about reloading.
 
I like TG in 45 auto but not in 9mm, found BE-86 works pretty good in the 9mm. TG lites up pretty quick for hi pressure stuff, gotta be careful.

Saving $$?? No, but.... Once you have all your supplies (may take a while to get a stock pile), anytime you want to shoot you just go to the 'store' and make what you want. And what you make is what you want to shoot, not whatever's in the box. You get to experiment with different charge and bullet weights, find out what runs best in a particular gun, learn A LOT, play with all kinds of bullets and best of all, shoot a lot more for the same $$. Your head will explode with lots of new terminology, you'll start to understand the WHY and WHAT IF. You'll feel more informed talking with folks about bullets, ballistics, burn rates, SD, BC, etc, etc. You'll begin to become and enlightened shooter :) Reloading is a progression of the sport of shooting for those who 'get into it'. It answers a lot of the questions that come up with when you start to shoot a lot, if you didn't shoot a lot you probably wouldn't care about reloading.

Just about everything you said there is spot on!

I don't shoot a lot. When I started reloading it didn't take too long before I had a pretty good stock of ammo. I really do like making it more than shooting it! I may be weird though. :rolleyes:

RE: Stockpiling. I pretty much started buying in bulk right after I decided that $17.00-$20.00 was too much for 100 projectiles. And as soon as I found a couple of powders that measured easily, were inexpensive and covered all the handgun calibers I loaded for I quit experimenting with powder.

I figure if a person knows they are going to become a hand loader that buying in bulk is the way to go. All the cases, projectiles and loading equipment will hold value...(If anyone doesn't agree with me, dummy up! I don't want to hear it!):D All we need is another political dust-up in this country and everything will go back to 1/13, or worse, again. I won't be caught without components ever again.
 
Here's a (very) nice turret and it's on sale @ Brownells...

Redding T-7.jpg
 
Here's a (very) nice turret and it's on sale @ Brownells...

View attachment 341699
I'd pass on that even if it was free.
All turret presses are single stage C presses.. you have to "batch load" and manually advance the dies/stations per operation..
unless it's a Lee auto advancing turret press (and it's an O press).. that costs one gubbin. anyway
 
I've been reloading for about 5 years but still just a beginner.
I think the best way to start is the single stage press.
**And like I say in any thread that mentions Hornady's L&L,it was my first progressive and it lasted about 3 months and I got rid of it for a Dillon 650**
Anyway,just make sure that when you are reloading you leave everyone and your phone out of your reloading room.
No distractions. So only start what you can finish before the wife and kids attack.
That's all I got. Plenty of smarter folks on here on this,well most, subjects:D
Good luck;)
 
Xtreme bullets doesn't publish load data. Just load them up like lead bullets or slightly more due to extra drag from the plating. Load up some test loads with different charges/powders and see how they do. Go to the range with several targets and keep a notebook with your results.

I say again, I have had bullets from different brands in 9mm give trouble due to the difference in ogive related bullet shape. One needs to look up the recommended OAL for each brand!!
 
I'll probably start with a good name brand,but afterwards if i start ordering bullets online will each company send a chart for reloading there bullets?

Unfortunately none that I know of. However, some publish books or have their data available online. The only bullets I use that have no published data are Xtremes, and they do send a note in the package that says to load them like lead cast bullets or slightly more due to drag of the plating. Fortunately I have a Lasercast manual that gives a good starting point.
 
I'd pass on that even if it was free.
All turret presses are single stage C presses.. you have to "batch load" and manually advance the dies/stations per operation..
unless it's a Lee auto advancing turret press (and it's an O press).. that costs one gubbin. anyway
Yep, a turret press falls between a single stage and a progressive.
More convenient that a single and not as fast as a progressive.
Redding T-7 seems to get the most positive reviews in the turret press category.
Built like a tank.
 

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