Help me get into reloading

[Raidingtime]

You won't go wrong with a hornady lock-n- load. I hear the auto primer feed is real finiky, I don't know haven't bought one. As far a changing dies though, I really like not having to re-adjust every time. There is no end to the list of things you will "need" for reloading. I know, because I have been chasing the end of that mythical list for 40 years. If you're married, seperate bank accounts help.

I can speak for the Hornady LNL AP. Works great, customer service is good, the primer feed is a little finicky. I'm happy I made the purchase- I bought mine used off of here for a killer deal.

 

[jordanka16]

Thanks,I was just looking at a pocket primer crimp picture.is that just when there's the ring inside where the primer goes?i read that it's mostly in .223/5.56.is it just firing the round that causes this or what and if I remove it does it just happen again?

What you're thinking about is crimped primers, military brass has the primers crimped in to keep them from backing out with rough handling. Before they can be reprimed it needs to be removed. There's a certain tool for it, I think the kit comes with it? Not sure though.

 

[Tilos]

That's a solid choice that you won't regret, mine has served me well for many years.

Get at least one other loading manual, a Lyman for sure, and then one to go with what bullets you use the most. And you'll want a dial caliper for measuring cases and loaded rounds. And a bullet puller will probably come in handy as well.

Oh and obviously dies for the calibers you use, and Everytime you buy a set of dies get a turret, a powder measure riser, and a round red storage box for the dies mounted in the turret.

um...I think that kit comes with a powder measure riser, at least I see it in the pic, in the turret, under the Auto Drum.

 

[jordanka16]

um...I think that kit comes with a powder measure riser, at least I see it in the pic, in the turret, under the Auto Drum.

I keep one on every set of dies so I don't have to swap them out, sort of like keeping a set of dies in the turrets.

 

[jrd541280]

Get a good set of calipers, dial I prefer. Get a good set of scales. Rcbs 505 is my choice. Start slowly. Understand each step, and then shoot what you made. Whoever said get another manual or two, big kudos. Sooner or later you're gonna jump from the nest. You will be the one giving advice to a nooby. Welcome aboard the train into the abyss.

 

[ageingstudent]

What you're thinking about is crimped primers, military brass has the primers crimped in to keep them from backing out with rough handling. Before they can be reprimed it needs to be removed. There's a certain tool for it, I think the kit comes with it? Not sure though.

I think the kit comes with a primer pocket cleaner not the reamer. There are several tools that will either cut or swedge the crimp. Prices vary widely. I usually prefer to use my RCBS swedge tool, but simetimes I use a Lyman reamer chucked in my drill press or lathe. Both ways work well.

 

[Member 5605]

If you are getting a set of Lee dies to match your Turret Press...

There is a built in crimp ring in the die so you can set bullet length and crimp in one step. There is only ONE extra crimp step that I have and that's for .223 rounds which I do NOT crimp unless they are going in an AR-15 which doesn't happen anymore since I load for bolt .223's.


Depending what kit you get....
Down the road you will probably end up getting rid of the scale and going towards a digital scale. It's just faster than waiting for the beam to balance. There are cheaper Frankford Arsenal scales that are around $40 or so and are accurate. There is NO need to drop $150+ on an electronic scale because at that point you are a few $$ away from an electronic powder drop (down the road maybe for precision rifle).

The good thing about having a powder drop for each caliber that you load is you can set it for x- powder, write on a piece of tape what it's dialed in for (powder weight, disc size and what powder you are using). When you switch to a different powder, you rip masking tape off and write new information down.

If you use the Lee powder drop, make sure you have a powder through expanding die. This also needs the riser to make the powder drop clear the primer holder. When my turret spins, the powder drop clears the primer setup by .020", it's just enough so it doesn't bang it and that's all I need. I believe @Caveman Jim had some recent experience with using the expander die to ensure proper case flare.

Most importantly RTFM (Read The Frigging Manual) and don't ever feel that any question is too stupid. The only dumb question is the one you are too afraid to ask. Reloading is controlled explosions.

I started reloading about 5 years ago and have done almost everything you shouldn't, I learned a LOT sitting and talking with @deadeye (he was local and always said "come on by) in his reloading room and being brave enough to ask questions even when I felt like it was stupid. The group here on NWFA are amazing and will help, coach and guide you to successfully wasting your time, I mean successfully reloading and being confident in doing it.

Finally, and @Josh89 you see the guys on here in this thread who have information and are willing to share, I can't speak for all of them but I'm guessing many of them would engage you in a private conversation if you ever have questions that are not worthy to post in a thread.

 

[Josh89]

If you are getting a set of Lee dies to match your Turret Press...

There is a built in crimp ring in the die so you can set bullet length and crimp in one step. There is only ONE extra crimp step that I have and that's for .223 rounds which I do NOT crimp unless they are going in an AR-15 which doesn't happen anymore since I load for bolt .223's.


Depending what kit you get....
Down the road you will probably end up getting rid of the scale and going towards a digital scale. It's just faster than waiting for the beam to balance.

The good thing about having a powder drop for each caliber that you load is you can set it for x- powder, write on a piece of tape what it's dialed in for (powder weight, disc size and what powder you are using). When you switch to a different powder, you rip masking tape off and write new information down.

If you use the Lee powder drop, make sure you have a powder through expanding die. This also needs the riser to make the powder drop clear the primer holder. When my turret spins, the powder drop clears the primer setup by .020", it's just enough so it doesn't bang it and that's all I need. I believe @Caveman Jim had some recent experience with using the expander die to ensure proper case flare.

Most importantly RTFM (Read The Frigging Manual) and don't ever feel that any question is too stupid. The only dumb question is the one you are too afraid to ask. Reloading is controlled explosions.

Have 2 manuals on the way.the one that comes with the kit and a Lyman,plan on spending a good week just reading them over and asking questions on here.well maybe a couple days,I'm really excited to start making my own rounds.

 

[ageingstudent]

If you are getting a set of Lee dies to match your Turret Press...

There is a built in crimp ring in the die so you can set bullet length and crimp in one step. There is only ONE extra crimp step that I have and that's for .223 rounds which I do NOT crimp unless they are going in an AR-15 which doesn't happen anymore since I load for bolt .223's.


Depending what kit you get....
Down the road you will probably end up getting rid of the scale and going towards a digital scale. It's just faster than waiting for the beam to balance.

The good thing about having a powder drop for each caliber that you load is you can set it for x- powder, write on a piece of tape what it's dialed in for (powder weight, disc size and what powder you are using). When you switch to a different powder, you rip masking tape off and write new information down.

If you use the Lee powder drop, make sure you have a powder through expanding die. This also needs the riser to make the powder drop clear the primer holder. When my turret spins, the powder drop clears the primer setup by .020", it's just enough so it doesn't bang it and that's all I need. I believe @Caveman Jim had some recent experience with using the expander die to ensure proper case flare.

Most importantly RTFM (Read The Frigging Manual) and don't ever feel that any question is too stupid. The only dumb question is the one you are too afraid to ask. Reloading is controlled explosions.

But have you figured out how to save money by reloading yet? I'd swear that's the main reason I started but it sure seems silly now.

 

[Member 5605]

But have you figured out how to save money by reloading yet? I'd swear that's the main reason I started but it sure seems silly now.

I have. All of my reloads cost me 1/2 the price of store bought ammo. That means for every 1000 9mm I reload I'm saving $120-, every 1000 .40 I'm saving $140, every 1000 .223 I'm saving $200... I'm saving $1 per .308 round that I manufacture, $1.50 for every .300 Savage round.

So somewhere the $4,000+ worth of reloading supplies, gear, equipment and such has to have been paid for right? If I reloaded every pound of powder I have right now I think I would break even.

Truth be told, I reload for my hobby not to save money. I only shoot rounds so I can reload them again.

 

[Josh89]

Is the nickel plated brass reloadable,like from the hornaday critical defense and duty.

 

[Member 5605]

Is the nickel plated brass reloadable,like from the hornaday critical defense and duty.

Yes, do you need some 9mm cases?

 

[ageingstudent]

I have. All of my reloads cost me 1/2 the price of store bought ammo. That means for every 1000 9mm I reload I'm saving $120-, every 1000 .40 I'm saving $140, every 1000 .223 I'm saving $200... I'm saving $1 per .308 round that I manufacture, $1.50 for every .300 Savage round.

So somewhere the $4,000+ worth of reloading supplies, gear, equipment and such has to have been paid for right? If I reloaded every pound of powder I have right now I think I would break even.

Truth be told, I reload for my hobby not to save money. I only shoot rounds so I can reload them again.

Compared to how much I used to shoot now I shoot an obscene ammount. Reloading allows me to do that so it's a weird mutually supportive saving/spending/shooting/reloading set of hobbies. I too enjoy it immensely. Gives me something to do with my hands and stretches my brain at the same time. Boy it has gone a lot farther than I thought it would.

 

[Josh89]

Yes, do you need some 9mm cases?

I think I should have more then enough,have a couple friends who burn thru some ammo and the brass has just been sitting there.probbaly a few thousand mixed cases.

 

[Josh89]

Compared to how much I used to shoot now I shoot an obscene ammount. Reloading allows me to do that so it's a weird mutually supportive saving/spending/shooting/reloading set of hobbies. I too enjoy it immensely. Gives me something to do with my hands and stretches my brain at the same time. Boy it has gone a lot farther than I thought it would.

This is what I'm hoping for

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

I've had all the gear for over a year now, in fact, nearly two years.......

Ask me how many rounds i've reloaded.....


But yes, for the convenience (as i understand it) and the price difference, get the 4 die sets.

 

[Crohnos01]

Lol... I remember thinking reloading was about saving money over store bought ammo... the I realized that I spent just as much money as shooting store bought, I was just shooting and spending more time at the range

Personally , and I think many can relate to this, I like that I can control my loads by picking and choosing bullet weight, powder type, charge weight, etc. Store bought you get what you get, end of story.

I love the relaxation of reloading as well. It's kinda a zen thing. And check this out... some people think of home rolled loads as being less reliable than factory loads... guess what? My one and only rifle squib was on a beautiful big buck....squeezed the trigger...click... yup, it was a factory load..... I swear that deer was laughing at me as he pranced away

 

[bbbass]

Do they just tell you if there sized right?

I didn't read all the way to the end of the posts, so forgive me if this has already been explained to your satisfaction.

Case gauges tell you if your setup is putting out correctly sized finished loads. I check each and every finished shell against the known parameters of a case gauge. Some folks will use the barrel of the pistol but I find the case gauge easier and more of a complete visualization. It checks width, overall length (OAL), and gives you a chance to check primer seating by either visual or running a finger across the base of the cartridge.

Speaking of OAL, the FMJ will be different than the HP. Just check the manual. Each bullet type used say in 9mm will have a specific OAL listed by the manufacturer or by the reloading manual. One interesting thing is that because of different bullets shapes, not all 9mm bullets in a given weight say 115gr will have the same length recommended. Say you change from using Speers to using Hornady. You have to look it up and not just assume they are all the same. This is good advice for every aspect of reloading. Never assume. Always look things up when you change bullets or powders. Pistol cases or primers, not so much.

 

[bbbass]

+1 on the Xtreme plated bullets and the Titegroup. I also use Red Dot but it is dirty cleanup after shooting. Stay away from TiteWAD as it is not safe to use in 9mm due to critical pressure variances.

If you get into shooting .223 or other rifle loads for accuracy, you will want a powder trickler to fine control your powder charges, and a 2nd scale to check against.

 

[jrd541280]

Can you save money, you bet your "insert most valuable possesions here". a few folks can hit a liter pop jug at 100 yds. I can shoot the cap off of that pop bottle.