Considering starting reloading

[Vierings]

I know, components (specifically primers it seems) are near non existent. But I think I'm going to slowly start reloading. I moved on from .308 Win to .300 blk as I really only shot my AR10 from a bench, and blackout will match my suppressor better once it's free. I figure I'll start with picking up primers/unobtanium (so I expect to wait a while) and then pick up the rest, which seems to be more available. I plan to develop a subsonic load for both bolt action and AR, though I anticipate having to develop different loads, time will tell.
I have more time than money these days and wouldn't object to a new hobby. I would consider the start up cost of press/dies and the like as "non factor" in the cost per round, and the $1.50+ per round of subs is extreme. Probably go with a single stage press to start.

Is there anything major to consider or look out for before doing this?

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[solv3nt]

If money is tight, go with the Lee single stage kit and get a quality beam scale. Carbide dies are pretty hard to come by right now too. Get a few good reloading books and then wait on components.

I'm still waiting on dies before I jump back into reloading.

 

[cowboykid8]

Single stage is great for fine tuning loads and small scale production. Also great to learn on. I would think about how much you might be shooting and if also looking for a progressive press might be worth your while. I would check classifieds for a deal on things. Assuming you will make your own .300 brass, case prep time will take a while and keep you busy.

 

[bionic knees]

If money is tight, go with the Lee single stage kit and get a quality beam scale. Carbide dies are pretty hard to come by right now too. Get a few good reloading books and then wait on components.

I'm still waiting on dies before I jump back into reloading.

lots of dies for sale on amazon.

 

[Tri-CitiesJohn]

I know, components (specifically primers it seems) are near non existent. But I think I'm going to slowly start reloading. I moved on from .308 Win to .300 blk as I really only shot my AR10 from a bench, and blackout will match my suppressor better once it's free. I figure I'll start with picking up primers/unobtanium (so I expect to wait a while) and then pick up the rest, which seems to be more available. I plan to develop a subsonic load for both bolt action and AR, though I anticipate having to develop different loads, time will tell.
I have more time than money these days and wouldn't object to a new hobby. I would consider the start up cost of press/dies and the like as "non factor" in the cost per round, and the $1.50+ per round of subs is extreme. Probably go with a single stage press to start.

Is there anything major to consider or look out for before doing this?

RCBS also has a nice complete starter kit.....has pretty much everything you might need to get started. 300 BO is an excellent cartridge to start out with, you actually will save a bunch of $ per round and it is easy to load for. All the good powders and projectiles for 300 are fairly easy to obtain these days, you already know about primers

 

[NeoBlackdog]

Wonderful... Someone else to compete against in the great primer/powder/bullet chase.

(You won't regret it!)

 

[Vierings]

If money is tight, go with the Lee single stage kit and get a quality beam scale. Carbide dies are pretty hard to come by right now too. Get a few good reloading books and then wait on components.

I have been planning on the Lee single stage kit, at least based on my early readings. I'm planning on getting some books, admittedly I was hoping maybe I would find some at my local library.

Single stage is great for fine tuning loads and small scale production. Also great to learn on. I would think about how much you might be shooting and if also looking for a progressive press might be worth your while. I would check classifieds for a deal on things. Assuming you will make your own .300 brass, case prep time will take a while and keep you busy.

I progressive may be in the works, but for now I'll just stick to the single stage, unless a real good deal comes up.

Still making up my mind on making my own brass. I own and shoot 5.56 as well, so I could resize. I'm also considering buying supers, shooting that and then reloading the brass. Maybe I'll do both.

 

[Local Loader]

I have been planning on the Lee single stage kit, at least based on my early readings. I'm planning on getting some books, admittedly I was hoping maybe I would find some at my local library.

I progressive may be in the works, but for now I'll just stick to the single stage, unless a real good deal comes up.

Still making up my mind on making my own brass. I own and shoot 5.56 as well, so I could resize. I'm also considering buying supers, shooting that and then reloading the brass. Maybe I'll do both.

Brownells has the Hornady AP on sale and there are coupon codes you can use for it on top of that.

 

[ma96782]

This is all my opinion. So then...... IF I may suggest.......

READ the book ABC's of Reloading. Or, you might just find step-by-step reloading instructions in your reloading manual (they are also a good investment for reloading data). Also, finding a mentor, or class, or even watching YouTube.

So then......a single-stage press will do. Even if you later decide to go to a progressive press your single stage will likely still serve you well into the future. Rrrrright.....you'll still have that single-stage for those small jobs and small batches of ammo.

It's good, to start out reloading for a pistol cartridge.

The rimmed cartridge (like .38 special/.357 Mag or .45 LC) is a really easy cartridge to learn on. Why? Mostly due to their size and your finger size. Yeah, manipulation of the brass can be more difficult with the small cartridges. But, you could also learn the process with the rimless pistol cartridges (like .45 ACP or 9mm). Up to You.

If you choose to learn to do rifle cartridges first. Well, it may be more difficult as there are many more steps and considerations involved.

Dies.

The three die set for your pistol cartridge reloading is the "usual" set. While a two-die set is the usual offering for rifle cartridges.

The "extra" die. 4th die in the pistol set or the 3rd die in the rifle set, is usually a "factory crimp die". It's NOT an absolute must-have. Though for some people it helps with the uniformity of their reloads. Of course, it'll also mean another step added to your process. So. Up to You.

Carbide dies are usually available only for the straight-walled pistol cartridges. Then, there are some bottle-necked carbide rifle dies that are available. Though they will come at a very premium price.

For straight wall cartridges.....I buy the carbide 3 die set. It's worth that little bit of extra money. I don't have to clean the cases. Yup....the carbide is THAT TOUGH and scratch-resistant. The carbide also eliminates the need to lube the brass prior to resizing. Awwww hell.......just get the carbide set. You can thank me later.

Rifle dies usually require you to clean and lube the brass cases prior to resizing. It may take some time before you figure out the RIGHT AMOUNT of lube to use. Lube too much and you'll have dented brass. Lube too little and you run the risk of getting the brass stuck in the die. Yeah, it's a PIA.

Oh S@#* this is long. Sorry, read up or watch YouTube.

Aloha, Mark

PS....."ADJUSTING" your dies CORRECTLY is sometimes a time-consuming and somewhat difficult task for a beginner. Thus my recommendation is to start on a single-stage press and with straight-wall pistol cartridges. NOTE: There are plenty of people trying to get the headspace exactly right for their resized rifle brass.

 

[41mag]

Is there anything major to consider or look out for before doing this?

it helped me focus early in my journey into the reality of studying the ballistic science, instead of what I had been told about 'saving money', that reloading is an opportunity to learn how to shoot loads better and more often for the money I chose to spend. Good luck.

 

[3MTA3]

IMO few things will connect you to your firearms more than reloading. There is just something about having your fingerprints on every single piece. It's akin to building a rod from a blank along with the lures and flies that makes a fishing experience so much more than just hooking some fish.

With a lot of components a bit hard to get this might be the time to look for deals on used equipment. I still frequently use a press that dates to the late 50's early 60's and it does just fine. I don't think you can go wrong with just about any press or related equipment, so don't worry about green vs red vs yellow vs blue etc..

 

[ma96782]

How much $$ will I save??


To help you with your math on your cost per round.........just plug in your cost of components.

Ammunition reloading load cost calculator | X-Reload

Use our custom load calculator and find out how much more bang for your bucks you can get with reloading. Try it now.

x-reload.com

Aloha, Mark

PS.....Yeah right. After reloading my own ammo, I somehow ended up, shooting MORE.

 

[TDH]

Lots of dies at Sportsmans, Scheels, and CAbelas - they have way more of those than anything else it seems

 

[Vierings]

Aloha, Mark

PS.....Yeah right. After reloading my own ammo, I somehow ended up, shooting MORE.

That seems like a good problem

Lots of dies at Sportsmans, Scheels, and CAbelas - they have way more of those than anything else it seems

I saw dies and bullets at cabelas today. Also found a member selling some primers, more than I've seen them for in the past. But that's to be expected in these times.

 

[RVTECH]

IMO few things will connect you to your firearms more than reloading. There is just something about having your fingerprints on every single piece. It's akin to building a rod from a blank along with the lures and flies that makes a fishing experience so much more than just hooking some fish.

Excellent analogy!

I would like to add another reason for reloading is an extension of your interest in shooting and firearms.

This parallels the 'connect' to you and your firearms as 3MTA3 stated.

If shooting is equally an interest as that of your firearms you will understand after shooting your first reload!

 

[Catfishmoon]

I know, components (specifically primers it seems) are near non existent. But I think I'm going to slowly start reloading. I moved on from .308 Win to .300 blk as I really only shot my AR10 from a bench, and blackout will match my suppressor better once it's free. I figure I'll start with picking up primers/unobtanium (so I expect to wait a while) and then pick up the rest, which seems to be more available. I plan to develop a subsonic load for both bolt action and AR, though I anticipate having to develop different loads, time will tell.
I have more time than money these days and wouldn't object to a new hobby. I would consider the start up cost of press/dies and the like as "non factor" in the cost per round, and the $1.50+ per round of subs is extreme. Probably go with a single stage press to start.

Is there anything major to consider or look out for before doing this?

I think you are making a good choice by starting to reload your own ammunition for a variety of reasons... It is not an activity suited for everyone, but for those who enjoy this aspect of firearms, there are many advantages.
My suggestions would be to always error on the side of caution and get your reload data from a reloading manual or manufacturer's website. Also, consider buying a quality second-hand vise or dies to save money. At lot of this stuff is made like a sledge hammer or axe and it will last longer than a human lifetime.

 

[dangerranger60]

This is a good time to find deals on equipment!
I still load most of my ammo on a single stage press. I have progressives but unless I'm going to load more that 3 to 500 at one setting it is not worth setting up the progressive.
The single stage press is where you learn to fine tune your dies.
If you go with Lee, the one thing I do is replace the lock ring with a real lock ring. [ the Oring style don't hold your settings] I have several sets of dies that I have not changed the setting in 10 or more years.
At least until you get good and started, stick with one brand of equipment. once you have a good idea what to expect then you can mix and match.
Once you get started look for ways to check your own work. and check every so often during a production run.
I can't imagine shooting without reloading, I really enjoy it! Good Luck DR

 

[GWS]

I recommend you pick up the Lyman 50th Edition reloading manual. It has a great section on the steps of reloading plus their load data isn't tied to a specific brand of powder, primers or bullets so you get across the board data. Finally, the Lyman has load data for lead bullets. IMO its the best manual out there.

 

[oregonPlinking]

After spending hundreds of dollars a week on factory ammo, and wanting to learn a new skill. I have been pondering getting into reloading, and have info dived on the web. Hearing that a single stage press is a good place to start. was thinking about trying to get the supplies/equipment to start off with either 9mm or .38spl/357mag. Just didn't know where would be a good place to start, whether just getting everything at once or slowly piecing together a set up. And whether or not there's a difference in difficulty between rimmed cartridges vs non rimmed. any advice or ideas on how to get started for the lowest cost possible is much appreciated due to the ever increasing inflation of everything it seems.
thank you!
-Brode

 

[Longwalkhome]

Just my perspective, reloading is about time and money. You can reload without most of the equipment if you have the time to pound out one round at a time.

If you go the equipment route it's still about the time it takes to load. You get more volume in production but more volume takes the time to do everything right.

If you have decided to reload then buy a good book first that tells you how. Lyman, Speer,Hornady are just a few you could start with.

Next watch the loading process on you tube. A lot of videos there and it helps to see where to start.

Good luck.