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The cucv's are all over the place you can get them very cheap govt liquidation makes you apply for a EUC which could take 2 weeks to 6 months then its a matter of doing the paperwork to get the title. More waiting than hassle. The6.2 is a fine engine, it often gets confused withe the 5.7 POS they put out before it. Yes the cranks can break but routine maintenance and replacing the dampener. it is 12/24 volt vehicle, The only real 24 volt part is the starter. you can mount the original radio in a m1009, m1008 and m1010. so if shtf you would have communication or at least hear whats going on. Plus on the bottom of the dash is a ste/ice port which lets you hook up a military ste/ice tester to run compression voltage etc. etc ..... As far as a 6.2 being a pos motor if you do your maintenace and are not ham fisted when you work on them and understand its not a turbo diesel hotrod motor your fine. plus govt liquidation has the generator trailers and regular trailers for them.
 
The cucv's are all over the place you can get them very cheap govt liquidation makes you apply for a EUC which could take 2 weeks to 6 months then its a matter of doing the paperwork to get the title. More waiting than hassle. The6.2 is a fine engine, it often gets confused withe the 5.7 POS they put out before it. Yes the cranks can break but routine maintenance and replacing the dampener. it is 12/24 volt vehicle, The only real 24 volt part is the starter. you can mount the original radio in a m1009, m1008 and m1010. so if shtf you would have communication or at least hear whats going on. Plus on the bottom of the dash is a ste/ice port which lets you hook up a military ste/ice tester to run compression voltage etc. etc ..... As far as a 6.2 being a pos motor if you do your maintenace and are not ham fisted when you work on them and understand its not a turbo diesel hotrod motor your fine. plus govt liquidation has the generator trailers and regular trailers for them.

Interesting. I was not concerned about the crankshaft as that, as I hear, is not the issue, but rather the blocks main bearing webs. These crack, the crack grow up the side of the block, until finally the engine dies rather suddenly.

This is what I am referring to:
Detroit Diesel V8 engine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I've seen a few around the PNW for sale but they seem to demand a high price.

DJM
 
Like I said before you can get complete engines from govt liquidation for like $300 or more. Plus think about it the military does regular maintenance on a very anal schedule you can get the tm manual and it explains how to do every thing and what checks they go through. The reason people over price them is because of the drive train and say the get it from the south west they have no rust. They are sturdy as **** now the pick ups and the blazers have different drive train and axles and the ambulances are just bad ***. Any engine can be a POS if you neglect it. IH motors have cam bearing issues aircooled vw's almost always burn #3 exhaust valve just prepare for the worst case and buy a back up motor from govt liquidation and build it. BTW all cucv's had TH400 tranny's they do get loud at speed. If you decide to buy one out in the portland area let me know and I will use my ste/ice tester on it and give you some more bargaining power
 
the four liter jeeps can be pretty good, or they can be complete pieces of crap. depends on who has has owned/maintained then. I/we have a 92 cherokee with 332,000 miles on it, wouldnt hesitate to get in it and head for wherever, that said i earn my living as a mechanic and I/we have taken exceptional care of this jeep. was the wifes daily driver until it turned 300,00 miles. got her into a newer lower mile rig for daily use these days. i see jeeps in all sorts of condition at work, some good some horrible. buy with caution.
 
Like I said before you can get complete engines from govt liquidation for like $300 or more. Plus think about it the military does regular maintenance on a very anal schedule you can get the tm manual and it explains how to do every thing and what checks they go through. The reason people over price them is because of the drive train and say the get it from the south west they have no rust. They are sturdy as **** now the pick ups and the blazers have different drive train and axles and the ambulances are just bad ***. Any engine can be a POS if you neglect it. IH motors have cam bearing issues aircooled vw's almost always burn #3 exhaust valve just prepare for the worst case and buy a back up motor from govt liquidation and build it. BTW all cucv's had TH400 tranny's they do get loud at speed. If you decide to buy one out in the portland area let me know and I will use my ste/ice tester on it and give you some more bargaining power

Yeah, but I do not want to swap motors, even if the motor were free! What if the motor blows while you are out in the sticks?! I've looked at these rigs are online and most are selling in the $4500 - $7000 range with rough 100K miles. For that kinda money you can get an awfully nice Cherokee! Do not get me wrong -- they are super cool looking trucks...I am tempted!

DJM
 
I've seen a few around the PNW for sale but they seem to demand a high price.
DJM


Diesel Blazers do not grow on trees, that is for sure. They are highly sought after by a lot of people, especially the WVO crowd. I went looking for a M1009 CUCV (diesel Blazer) a couple of years ago. I started looking on Government Liquidation and found, at least at that time, that all M1009s were sold out of a couple bases in the Southern US. There were none on the West Coast. I ended up buying the San Bernardino County fire chief's former command vehicle, an '87 diesel Blazer with 78k original miles. My intent was to do a vegetable oil conversion on it as I'm friends with Chris that owns Frybrid. I've decided that I'm not going to complete that project as after quitting my job to be self-employed I don't drive nearly enough to justify the hassle of dealing with WVO.


Interesting. I was not concerned about the crankshaft as that, as I hear, is not the issue, but rather the blocks main bearing webs. These crack, the crack grow up the side of the block, until finally the engine dies rather suddenly.
DJM


As far as 6.2s being junk, they really aren't. Actually they are quite robust engines and run forever if taken care of. The blocks do crack, that is their weakness. EVERY 6.2 needs a main girdle kit like this one <broken link removed> installed to prevent cracks from starting or getting worse. For a couple hundred dollars and a few hours under the truck you never have to worry about it again!

(BTW, if anybody wants to buy a rust free, low miles diesel K5 on 35s shoot me a PM!)
 
I put over 140k miles on my ZJ before I sold it.

ZJ.jpg

I have over 35k on the new 4-door JK now.

naches03.jpg

Nothing wrong with an XJ, or a Toyota for that matter, but I have not had any issues with the Jeep models I've owned, and I beat on them pretty hard.
 
Diesel Blazers do not grow on trees, that is for sure. They are highly sought after by a lot of people, especially the WVO crowd. I went looking for a M1009 CUCV (diesel Blazer) a couple of years ago. I started looking on Government Liquidation and found, at least at that time, that all M1009s were sold out of a couple bases in the Southern US. There were none on the West Coast. I ended up buying the San Bernardino County fire chief's former command vehicle, an '87 diesel Blazer with 78k original miles. My intent was to do a vegetable oil conversion on it as I'm friends with Chris that owns Frybrid. I've decided that I'm not going to complete that project as after quitting my job to be self-employed I don't drive nearly enough to justify the hassle of dealing with WVO.





As far as 6.2s being junk, they really aren't. Actually they are quite robust engines and run forever if taken care of. The blocks do crack, that is their weakness. EVERY 6.2 needs a main girdle kit like this one <broken link removed> installed to prevent cracks from starting or getting worse. For a couple hundred dollars and a few hours under the truck you never have to worry about it again!

(BTW, if anybody wants to buy a rust free, low miles diesel K5 on 35s shoot me a PM!)

Great info and thanks for the link to the stud girdle kit!

DJM
 
Has anyone considered EMP effect on their BOV? Not that it's likely to happen.

+1. I am alittle uninformed of what exactly the EMP will affect. Was thinking that even just a dependable BOV the only thing that should be considered is early 70's to 88 bow tie suburban or crew cab(family vehicle). In a SHTF situation the SBC is garanteed to be everywhere. No electronic CPU . The only bad thing that came to mind regarding the SBC is that since Obamas cars for cash alot of inventory got crushed reduceing availability. Also alot of wreckers are consolidating for space also reducing availablility.
 
But just for the sake of saying it what about a m35a2 all mechanical 6x6 bullet proof multi-fuel bad mamma jamma with room for alot of gear and can drive through anything YouTube - m35a2 deuce under water just a thought

I think that the 6x6 is on everyones list. And yes you can feed it just about everything. But unless you have the money, mechanical maintenance skills and have located one to restore and make dependable then I don't really think that its practical. just my opinion. That said, Ofcourse its on the list.

Buy yourself a 97-2000 jeep wrangler and live worry free!
My current family truckster is a 99 XJ. They are not without their gremlins, but 90% dependable on and off-road. But ultimately just a paper weight after an
EMP.

Also if sudenly the populace all decides to BO then fuel of any sort with be gone in a matter of hours. Gas stations don't stock pile. They only buy what can be sold.
Once its gone its gone. So who here Store fuel? Does fuel go bad? How long can you store before it breaks down?
 
fuel can be stored. It doesn't store well, but you can use a 55gal drum, add a bit of stabil, and purge whatever air is in it with Argon you're good to go. Guys in the racing world often store race gas or E85 for close to a year.
 
just get some marine fuel stabilizer (designed to work with ethanol in the tank) and it will last a year or more. Get a barrel or a bunch of gas cans. Put in the appropriate amount of stabilizer and you are gtg. Also, only store premium grade fuels 92octane or so. Its my understanding that as fuel ages, the octane count goes down or something like that. Starting out with more aint a bad idea. Plus I was told at one point that they put less ethanol in the premium than the lower grades. Plus its usually just a little bit better gas. IF you can, find a place selling ethanol free gas. Usually its only at marinas or random gas stations here or there. That would be the ideal, but have fun finding them. I have yet to find one close enough to justify it. But I know none of this is stated fact, but at the end of the day, that extra buck I pay to fill up a 5gal can is just a little more piece of mind for me. And a buck really ain't that much.

ETA I take it back. Found a list of places to get ethanol free gas: http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=OR
 

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