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The reloading books all tell you not to do this. But I've been doing this as necessary for nigh on 40 years and never had one go off. The key is to do it gently. I had one go off that got stuck sideways from using a Lee Bench Auto Prime, then I tried to pry it out with a small screwdriver. It snapped but there was no harm. When they are being decapped in a press, even if one goes off, it only blows its limited charge up into the decapping die, then back down. It's not blowing at you. Just my take on the practice.

I suppose there might be some danger, depending upon the design of the press, of a chain detonation of an accumulation of primers nearby. Meaning in the decapped primer cup. I use a Lee Classic Cast press; the decapped primers have a long drop through a clear plastic tube so I don't see any hazard with the use of this design.

I agree; I've done it myself many, many times. There are plenty of reloading things that you "shouldn't do", that the books all say are taboo, that are actually safe if (and only if) you have the experience and understanding to really know what you're doing- "advanced techniques", if you will. Since by-the-book reloaders will often yell at you and call you reckless and crazy if you talk about them, I've found that it's most often best to just not talk about these things. :)
 
Go ahead. Make my day.
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Made up 500 vaccines today....No not Covid19 but Prairie Dog vaccines. They are very effective with ZERO chance of relapse...View attachment 669829View attachment 669830
What is the twist rate of your barrel. I really wanted my 1/8 twist AR varmint build to like the 53 gr vmax but it does not. Now the 60gr nos bt it loves but they are a bit spendy unless you can find blems or factory overuns.
 
One time with medium to light loads is fine for 'throw away' ammo.
Aluminum is iffy I have done lots of45 acp aluminum reloads with out problems And I have done thousands of 45acp and 40 S&W reloads with great success the steel cases can be reloaded more than once.
 
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I reloaded a few Glock mags, better have them and not need them blah blah blah......


Wait. Maybe I missed the thread topic here? :s0140:
 
New to 308 (and large Rifle reloading for that matter). Just finished the case prep on all my cases today. Seemed like many of the cases were a little trashed. Lots of heavy ejector marks on the case mouths. Most were very expanded... especially at the bases. Is this what 308 looks like through semi auto guns (AR10, M1a and such)? I see this batch working fine as barrel break-in for my new Savage 16, but I think I'll be getting some Lapua or Starline for accuracy loads that I'm planning. Any thoughts from experienced 308 loaders is appreciated.
 
Yea probably but you shouldn't reload steel cases at all as you risk damaging your dies.
Seriously? if the carbide dies are damaged by loading steel cases so be it. where did you get the idea? My 40 S@W dies are about 15 years old and the 45 dies I bought with the Dillon in 1991.
 
New to 308 (and large Rifle reloading for that matter). Just finished the case prep on all my cases today. Seemed like many of the cases were a little trashed. Lots of heavy ejector marks on the case mouths. Most were very expanded... especially at the bases. Is this what 308 looks like through semi auto guns (AR10, M1a and such)? I see this batch working fine as barrel break-in for my new Savage 16, but I think I'll be getting some Lapua or Starline for accuracy loads that I'm planning. Any thoughts from experienced 308 loaders is appreciated.
Be sure to check lengths on military brass, and ream
the crimp from the primer pocket
 
Be sure to check lengths on military brass, and ream
the crimp from the primer pocket
Also if you start bulging/mushrooming the case while seating the bullet, back the die out of the press 1/4 turn. Then turn the seat plunger in about 1 turn, or when the bullet cannalure is even with the case mouth. To fix the semi squished shoulder remove the seat plunger from the die and run the mushroomed case-bullet and all through the die again. Don't forget to put the seat plunger back in. Easiest way to adjust is to put the plunger almost all the way up in the die, put die back into press. Put loaded round into shell holder and then it up. When it's at the top of what would be the seat stroke, thread the bullet seat plunger back down by hand untill it touches the bullet. This should be very close to the desired depth for seating. Happy loading.
 

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