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I know it varies depending on the individual, but I sort by headstamp most of my 9mm brass that I use for target shooting. After cleaning all my brass a few weekends ago, I have spent quite a few hours sorting it, not done yet...

It appears to me that reloading supplies have become easier to find in the past month and I have been restocking. Just bought 8# of CFE Pistol for $235, Cabelas price matched a sale at Brownells.

Also bought 3500 X-Treme copper plated 9mm 147 grain for .082 cents apiece. Cabelas price matched a sale on the manufacturer's website. 3500 was the total number of three separate orders at that price.
As mentioned by others, if I am headed near a Sportsmans Warehouse I take a family member and leave the store with four boxes of Fiocchi small pistol primers which have 150 per box.
 
Finished changing the press to 45 Colt today. I always clean and oil the press before starting the next caliber.

Going to make some low powered cowboy loads with 200 grain lead bullets to start with. I like the Colt six guns, don't shoot them much but figure I may as well build a few hundred rounds for the range.
 
Finished changing the press to 45 Colt today. I always clean and oil the press before starting the next caliber.

Going to make some low powered cowboy loads with 200 grain lead bullets to start with. I like the Colt six guns, don't shoot them much but figure I may as well build a few hundred rounds for the range.
What powder? Trail Boss, black, or something else?
 
I finished making the 180 gr 357's after taking a hand full to the range with my GP-100. I'd bought some Lil'Gun at Bi-mart because I saw it on the shelf so after casting the bones and reading the cards I figured this would be a good load to use up the powder in. I was right they shot good, in reading some of the comments about this powder I had concerns about the powder being too hot and cutting the back strap. But most of those were loading 158gr and lighter bullets and this powder is recommended for heavy for caliber bullets just like W-296/h-110. I didn't run them over the chronograph but according to the book they should be about 1200fps out of my 4" barrel. After finishing up the 357's the last small primer ammo for me to make other than 9mm was a small order of 78gr RN 32 H&R Mag so I cranked that out as well. Today I'll start on a production run of 45 Colt and then 10mm, 41 Mag and Special then finishing up on this press with some 45-70.
 
Feeling pretty good about my 45 Colt loading. Starline has brass for 23 cents each and free shipping. My 200 grain lead are 12 cents each. Powder is some I bought a while back and cheap. Primers I bought years ago for $35 a thousand.
 
Obviously you went back in time to 2007
Nahh, just prior to the plandemic prices & inventory had normalized for several years. About 3 years or so. Primers could be bought on here at $20/K, or less. In stores? Mid $20(ish) to $30(ish) /K.

The run following Sandy Hook (Dec 2012) lasted a few years, then normalized for a bit. However the 2016 election cycle kicked it off again until post election when things calmed down

...and folks kept reminding people to stock up!
 
Picked up some H4895 today from my good friend @Mikej !!! Thanks, Mike!!

Happy Mother's Day To ME !! :)


H4895.jpg
 
Finally got my Dillon 550 dialed for 300 blackout. Loaded a few hundred Berry 220's with 1680 at 10.8 grains. Really want to try Vv n120 but didn't want to mess around with load development on this batch.
 
Wednesday, I burned a lot of powder. For the first time in months. I had a backlog of guns to try out for the first time, check loads, regulate sights, etc. I can't remember when I took so many different guns on one trip. And, the weather was fine and the chrono operated as it should when first set up. Ding Ding Ding.

1. I was shooting my .35 Whelen for the first time and discovered that I got the cartridge headspace wrong on my home made cases. Which I have now rectified for the future.

2. I discovered that minimum charge book values for a powder I was using for .44 magnum in a carbine were under by 200+ fps. The primers weren't flattened badly, but case expansion was on the overly side. The chrono helps you determine if the book values are honest. This was a good example of why you should begin with minimum load when you are just starting out with one you haven't done before.

3. Always take a cleaning rod with you when shooting a top break single shot. Once in a while, the case expands enough that the ejector won't pop the case out. Then you're done shooting that gun until you get back to a cleaning rod. I now have two of those crappy Chinese AK47 rod sets in my car. One of my NEF .223's got off two shots before this happened. Could be burring on the rim of a previously reloaded case got it stuck. The dies I use are small base. I have more testing to do on this rifle. It might have a tight chamber that needs polishing. Or I could use nickel plated brass, which is slicker. I'll figure it out.

4. My crappy Rossi single shot .243 did well, once I got the crappy plastic sights regulated. It's actually pretty sturdy for the money. It also has a 20 gauge barrel but I didn't have that along with me. My .243 Win. loads were minimum from Hodgdon data, were well under the published velocity. Which was okay, a 90 gr. bullet going 2,750 fps. is going to do the job with a rifle having open sights. I haven't owned a .243 for many years, I'd forgotten how they go off with a CRACK.

5,. My NEF Survivor works fine, but I found out when using the .45 Colt loads, the powder I was using didn't like a 185 gr. bullet. Which was all I had when I first got the gun and fixins. The powder likes a heavier bullet ahead of it, well crimped, otherwise insufficient ignition. It worked fine with the 250 gr. bullets I later bought.
 
Wednesday, I burned a lot of powder. For the first time in months. I had a backlog of guns to try out for the first time, check loads, regulate sights, etc. I can't remember when I took so many different guns on one trip. And, the weather was fine and the chrono operated as it should when first set up. Ding Ding Ding.

1. I was shooting my .35 Whelen for the first time and discovered that I got the cartridge headspace wrong on my home made cases. Which I have now rectified for the future.

2. I discovered that minimum charge book values for a powder I was using for .44 magnum in a carbine were under by 200+ fps. The primers weren't flattened badly, but case expansion was on the overly side. The chrono helps you determine if the book values are honest. This was a good example of why you should begin with minimum load when you are just starting out with one you haven't done before.

3. Always take a cleaning rod with you when shooting a top break single shot. Once in a while, the case expands enough that the ejector won't pop the case out. Then you're done shooting that gun until you get back to a cleaning rod. I now have two of those crappy Chinese AK47 rod sets in my car. One of my NEF .223's got off two shots before this happened. Could be burring on the rim of a previously reloaded case got it stuck. The dies I use are small base. I have more testing to do on this rifle. It might have a tight chamber that needs polishing. Or I could use nickel plated brass, which is slicker. I'll figure it out.

4. My crappy Rossi single shot .243 did well, once I got the crappy plastic sights regulated. It's actually pretty sturdy for the money. It also has a 20 gauge barrel but I didn't have that along with me. My .243 Win. loads were minimum from Hodgdon data, were well under the published velocity. Which was okay, a 90 gr. bullet going 2,750 fps. is going to do the job with a rifle having open sights. I haven't owned a .243 for many years, I'd forgotten how they go off with a CRACK.

5,. My NEF Survivor works fine, but I found out when using the .45 Colt loads, the powder I was using didn't like a 185 gr. bullet. Which was all I had when I first got the gun and fixins. The powder likes a heavier bullet ahead of it, well crimped, otherwise insufficient ignition. It worked fine with the 250 gr. bullets I later bought.
I bet you're still cleaning 😆. Good post thank you for the range report
 
I bet you're still cleaning
That's always been my least favorite part of shooting. Which I've been pretty diligent about; I can't leave them dirty, it's just not in my.

The guns are all clean again and stored away. The brass has been cleaned and some is reloaded now.

I had a real job of work getting the .44 magnum carbine barrel cleaned. One batch of bullets I used were store-bought cast lead with gas checks. In my down-sizing of a few years ago, I let all my casting stuff go. Because of the 200+ fps overspeed discrepancy already mentioned, I'm sure the lead bullets were forced to go beyond their rated velocity capacity. The barrel was leaded just ahead of the chamber. This is a Marlin-made Microgroove bbl. I got it cleaned with some lead cleaning solvent and elbow grease with a bronze brush. I have a set of lead removing tools, the kind that use brass hardware screen to wipe away lead, but the crucial piece that the screen goes on has gone missing.
 
Converting my G21 to a G20 so I can shoot the Best Millimeter. Bought some 10mm carbide Lee dies, these 180gn Berries and a bag of Starline brass. We will see how I like it, BCA offers a 10mm AR PCC barrel that looks nice as well.
Was nice having something besides old 45acp range brass, they size smooth and primer pockets don't suck. I need to decap and ream all that darn range brass, I have a 5gallon bucket FULL of just 45acp.

received_1281275946076861.jpeg
 
Converting my G21 to a G20 so I can shoot the Best Millimeter. Bought some 10mm carbide Lee dies, these 180gn Berries and a bag of Starline brass. We will see how I like it, BCA offers a 10mm AR PCC barrel that looks nice as well.
Was nice having something besides old 45acp range brass, they size smooth and primer pockets don't suck. I need to decap and ream all that darn range brass, I have a 5gallon bucket FULL of just 45acp.

View attachment 1422410
The beauty of 45acp brass, is you can reload it forever (unless lost) Never had to ream the pockets, just size & reload.
The best caliber however (10mm) they seem to split at the mouth after a few reloadings, and by that time the base seems to be "guppied" where the sizing die doesn't hit it.
I have 2. One with the factory barrel, one with a storm lake.
Still, the 10mm is especially cost-effective to load for.
 
The 45 Colt is done and the 10mm will be done today. The 10mm for sale was made with new Starline brass and when I got to the end of the production run I decided to use the last of the 200gr TC bullets in ammo for me, only to discover that some of the used brass has small primer pockets. I don't know when Blazer/federal and Hornady started doing this but it's one more thing to watch out for.
 
Converting my G21 to a G20 so I can shoot the Best Millimeter. Bought some 10mm carbide Lee dies, these 180gn Berries and a bag of Starline brass. We will see how I like it, BCA offers a 10mm AR PCC barrel that looks nice as well.
Was nice having something besides old 45acp range brass, they size smooth and primer pockets don't suck. I need to decap and ream all that darn range brass, I have a 5gallon bucket FULL of just 45acp.

View attachment 1422410
Sounds like you're ready to have some fun.

I do enjoy converting Glocks to shoot different calibers (45 to 10; 40 to 9/357).

When I did this with my G21 I would also swap out the trigger housing (so I had the 10mm ejector), and even swapped out the extractor for the 10mm version. Only takes a punch tool and about 2 minutes. The ejector made a difference (10mm cases stopped flying back into my face). It was hard to tell if the extractor swap helped or not. But I wasn't using a conversion barrel, just a standard G20 aftermarket barrel. Maybe a conversion barrel will help with brass ejection in that caliber. (My 9 conversion barrels do help direct brass away from me.)

EDIT: I just went back and checked my notes. I did NOT swap out the trigger housing (and thus, the ejector) on my 45 to 10 conversion with my G21. It was my G22 40 to 9 conversion where I did that. I only swapped the extractor on the G21 45 to 10mm conversion. The G20 (10mm) and G21 (45ACP) used the same ejector, so I left the trigger housing in the G21 untouched. So, the EXTRACTOR CHANGE IS WHAT IMPROVED the 10mm case ejection from the G21.

A suggestion for when you start to reload your fired cases: I found that running my fired 10mm cases through a bulge-buster die (like Lee's bulge-buster kit and their factory crimp die) helped with case base bulges, which Glocks are notorious for in 45 ACP, 40 S&W and 10mm, because the chamber doesn't fully support the case at the base. It was a little scary when I gauged my spent cases in those calibers and saw how many would NOT drop easily and completely into the gauge block. Resizing doesn't aways work out the case base bulges, but a bulge-buster usually does. One of the downsides of reloading brass shot through a Glock. But your milage may vary.

That being said - it's waaaaaaayyyyyyyy cheaper to load your own 10mm than buy it new - obviously. (It costs me almost the same to reload one round in 10mm and 32 ACP.)

Cheers.
 
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