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OK then,
Not a fan of spraying brass with lube, so I "tumble-lube" with some cloths LIGHTLY moistened with case lube from a tube or Bag Balm.
I have been using the same premoistened cloths for 1000s of rounds without adding more lube.
A nut container and some 20-year-old rags (old T shirt) that I roll around/swirl around/tumble for 10 seconds for 100+ 9mm de-primed/wet tumbled/dried cases.
No lube INSIDE of any of the cases, ever.
I have posted this on other forums and reloaders have used it successfully for bottle-neck calibers.
*Bag Balm is mostly lanolin.

BagBalm.jpg BrassJar.jpg
So if you find cases have too much lube, wrap the clothes in a paper towel and squeeze out some of the lube.
I don't wipe off the lube from loaded rounds because it aids in feeding.
It gets washed off when wet tumbled after firing.
jmo,
.
Yep, so easy a Caveman could do it. :s0112:
.
Edit: Bag Balm mentioned in this vid at 5:42 used as CASE lube...in WW2 :eek: :
 
Last Edited:
Is there an echo in here. :p
All my bottle neck cases get resized, cleaned & primed before they reach the loading press.
I use lanolin to make my hands really soft… :D
Do you use a spray or?
And I thought your hands were unusually soft when we shook hands IN OLYMPIA :eek:
Is there an echo in here. :p
All my bottle neck cases get resized, cleaned & primed before they reach the loading press.
I use lanolin to make my hands really soft… :D

OK then,
Not a fan of spraying brass with lube, so I "tumble-lube" with some cloths LIGHTLY moistened with case lube from a tube or Bag Balm.
I have been using the same premoistened cloths for 1000s of rounds without adding more lube.
A nut container and some 20-year-old rags (old T shirt) that I roll around/swirl around/tumble for 10 seconds for 100+ 9mm de-primed/wet tumbled cases.
I have posted this on other forums and reloaders have used it successfully for bottle-neck calibers.
*Bag Balm is mostly lanolin.

View attachment 1399559 View attachment 1399560
So if you find cases have too much lube, wrap the clothes in a paper towel and squeeze out some of the lube.
I don't wipe off the lube from loaded rounds because it aids in feeding.
jmo,
.
Very interesting. I have a can of BagBalm. It actually comes from my home state of Vermont. I used to use it on my hands when they would get dry and cracking from getting wet all the time in the winter when I was working.
Good stuff although never did I think of it as cade lube.
 
2 drops lanolin in small (3oz) spray bottle of denatured alcohol, shake well and spray couple times on a rag put in bucket with brass and shake. Been doing that for years with no issues on straight wall and bottle neck. Works great for forming 300 blackout from 223/5.56. Never a stuck case or failure to fire and I have stored reloads for years.
 
Yes, RMR Nukes. Nice shooting 124's. Thanks!
Nice, I have some to try after I finish up the 124 gr Gold Dots I am working on. Curious as to what powder you are using and what overall length you are loading them. I am trying the Gold Dots with 6.0 gr of Power Pistol at about 1.10" to plunk and twist in both Glock 48 and CZ P-09. The Nukes will need to loaded shorter to function in the CZ. The old RMR 124 gr MPR needed to be 1.06" for the CZ. The Glock could loaded longer.
 
Nice, I have some to try after I finish up the 124 gr Gold Dots I am working on. Curious as to what powder you are using and what overall length you are loading them. I am trying the Gold Dots with 6.0 gr of Power Pistol at about 1.10" to plunk and twist in both Glock 48 and CZ P-09. The Nukes will need to loaded shorter to function in the CZ. The old RMR 124 gr MPR needed to be 1.06" for the CZ. The Glock could loaded longer.
I shoot the 115 nukes in 9 and the 124 in 357sig so I have nothing to offer.
 
2 drops lanolin in small (3oz) spray bottle of denatured alcohol, shake well and spray couple times on a rag put in bucket with brass and shake. Been doing that for years with no issues on straight wall and bottle neck. Works great for forming 300 blackout from 223/5.56. Never a stuck case or failure to fire and I have stored reloads for years.
Home made case lube. Refer to the recipe in Post #3,189.


I love it. Shake before usage. Spritz a bit on a towel and roll a couple of cases over the towel like you're using a commercial lube pad. Then, size the cases as usual.

++++++++++++++
++++++++++++++

BUT, But, but.....today, my problem came when I was working on reloading 9mm. Yeah.....(speaking of range pick ups) it seems that the primer pockets aren't so "uniform" anymore. NOT speaking of the crimps. Anyway, I'm gonna try decapping and swedging all of this current lot before moving on to reloading it.

Aloha, Mark
 
Last Edited:
Home made case lube. Refer to the recipe in Post #3,189.


I love it. Shake before usage. Spritz a bit on a towel and roll a couple of cases over the towel like you're using a commercial lube pad. Then, size the cases as usual.

++++++++++++++
++++++++++++++

BUT, But, but.....today, my problem came when I was working on reloading 9mm. Yeah.....(speaking of range pick ups) it seems that the primer pockets aren't so "uniform" anymore. NOT speaking of the crimps. Anyway, I'm gonna try decapping and swedging all of this current lot before moving on to9 reloading it.

Aloha, Mark
I will not mess with certain headstamps for that reason.
 
I will not mess with certain headstamps for that reason.
I know from reloading some .40 S&W that I avoid Amerc brass like the plague. I've read enough (maybe on this thread) about Sellier & Bellot brass not being great either, that I'll avoid using it as well. Any other headstamps you would recommend avoiding?
 

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