TITANIUM guns - cleaning the flash burn off

[KrautBurner]

I've got a Taurus Titanium 617 (357 Mag with 2" ported barrel) Taurus International Manufacturing Inc

it's the flat (matte) grey color
it's got significant discoloration at the barrel porting and the front of the cylinders

I was wondering if anyone had any experience on cleaning this up?

the owners manual says not to use anything abrasive on the titanium



this pic was when it was pretty new (and doesn't show the discoloration)


Thanks in advance

Russ

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[civilian75]

When I got my 357Mag S&W 360 (pre-PD & steel cylinder), the manual it came with covered the titanium cylinder, too. Can't find it. All I remember is you should not use any abrasives, and some chemicals will hurt it, too. Sorry i can't be of more help.

 

[Creeper]

I use M-Pro 7 cleaner heated to about 120 degrees. Softens hard carbon deposits fairly quickly with minimal scrubbing.

C

 

[Swedish K]

Not sure on Ti - on stainless I use Flitz - it seems to effortlessly remove the carbon rings on the front of the cylinder

 

[Trailboss]

Titanium will respond well to Flitz, just remember that its softer than stainless and so don't over do it with abrasives.

 

[netcarrier]

Hi Russ,
What I use on my S&W 66 is a Stainless Steel Brush
Tony Portland, Oregon Area

 

[Straight Shooter]

NeverDull metal polish wipes it right off. The cotton wadding stuff.

 

[HuckFin]

I just use any of the lead cleaning cloths on mine.

 

[SinisterSouthpaw]

Being an obssessive compulsive gun cleaner I scrub all my guns after every session at the range, if not actually AT the range, then soon after I get home. I have used just about every solvent lead away type cloth and etc. trying to find a better method of cleaning the cylinder face and forcing cone area of my revolvers--blued- titanium - stainless...Some of the earlier replies mentioned Flitz, which I had not heard of before, so I thought I would buy some and try it. After trying 7,453 places with no luck, I decided to order it through my local Ace Hardware (True Value offered to order it from their warehouse too, but the Ace is on my way to the gun club) and got it today. Flitz beat all the other methods without a doubt, being easier and faster to use, while more economical. One other chemical came close to the FLitz--Blue Wonder bore gel. Neither are abrasive.

I did not shoot my S&W 331 with the titanium cylinder today, but I did shoot my S&W 629 which has always been a PITA to clean--hopefully my attempts to post the before and after pix will work--here goes

 

[Jr1982]

That cleaned up real nice. I usually use a dremel tool with a cotton wheel and jewelers rouge.

 

[MountainBear]

Be very careful when using abrasives and polishing compounds. You don't want to widen the gap between the cylinder and the barrel. Try a lead removal cloth from Birchwood Casey...

 

[MrMcLovin]

your hard pressed to widen the gap with a buffing cloth on a dremal, but you may round the edges, if your agressive and that over time will show. a hot mixture of simple green (3:7) will go a long way and wont hurt anything. that mixture in a jewelers sonic cleaner will clean about anything....

 

[skydiver]

I just buy a new gun when the old one gets dirty.

 

[SinisterSouthpaw]

Shot my S&W 331 (titanium cylinder) today and all the burnt carbon and junk cleaned off the cylinder face and forcing cone area just as easily and beautifully as it did on the 629--great stuff.

BTW, I never did find any cleaner that worked to get the crud off the forcing cone area when used in my US cleaner--can you post before and after pix of that area treated in that manner using simple green? I never tried it after the Brownell's techs I TT could not name anything that I had not tried that did the job that lead away cloth and elbow grease, which is what I was using at the time, does.