Cleaning kits, jags and brush organization

[gmerkt]

I'm less organized that most have mentioned here. I have a main box, it's a WW2 ammo box that I've had since I was a teenager. It holds the common items, pistol rods, solvents. I have two cardboard boxes of patches; I've always been afraid I would run out so I went overboard on those. Some seldom used chemicals are in a small box on my bench top. Brushes, jags and other fittings are stored in bins in one of my roll-aways. Those are sorted by pistol, rifle, and shotgun. Then there is a bin in the back with a bunch of new stuff that is waiting to be used.

Those gun cleaning kits in the longish, flattish boxes, I take those as being for relative beginners. Or hunters who fire half a dozen shots a year. Not for serious shooters who do a lot of cleaning. For one thing, the segmented rods aren't for serious use. I think it's a priority to get a proper, one piece rod.

I have serial episodes of tipping over my little bottle of Hoppe's No. 9. So I made a kind of holder for it to reduce those chances. I'd like to do better with a new design.

 

[OutwardHound]

Mines living out of a cardboard box, that is a huge step for me...

Ha, me too. I just got a new pair of Wolverine work boots so I'll be moving things around. I have boxes for center fire, rim fire, and knife sharpening.

 

[gmerkt]

I forgot, there are also two cigar boxes. One has M1 Rifle tools and the other has M14 tools. I won't be needing the M14 stuff anymore, as I let all the M1A's go.

 

[Koda]

I have serial episodes of tipping over my little bottle of Hoppe's No. 9. So I made a kind of holder for it to reduce those chances. I'd like to do better with a new design.

I bought 200 of these "Transfer Pipettes" off Amazon for 10 bucks and never looked back...

 

[Koda]

For one thing, the segmented rods aren't for serious use. I think it's a priority to get a proper, one piece rod.

Agree. Of course it doesnt fit in my cardboard box but I bought one for 22cal that works for all my calibers so it just hangs on the wall in the garage.

 

[Member 34319]

For one thing, the segmented rods aren't for serious use. I think it's a priority to get a proper, one piece rod.

I'll disagree with this one. I solely use aluminum inexpensive multi piece rods. I loctite them together and polish them. Aluminum is vastly softer than steel and carbon fiber. If you break it it's vastly less expensive to replace than a one piece. One piece rods are expensive due to logistics of the size and fragility. Once bent they are useless and expensive to replace. Steel and carbon are vastly more abrasive to barrels than aluminum. I'd recommend a multiple piece aluminum rod over others to any shooter.

 

[Koda]

I'll disagree with this one. I solely use aluminum inexpensive multi piece rods. I loctite them together and polish them. Aluminum is vastly softer than steel and carbon fiber. If you break it it's vastly less expensive to replace than a one piece. One piece rods are expensive due to logistics of the size and fragility. Once bent they are useless and expensive to replace. Steel and carbon are vastly more abrasive to barrels than aluminum. I'd recommend a multiple piece aluminum rod over others to any shooter.

loctiting them together and polishing them to form a one piece rod is a great idea. That said I wouldnt recommend a multiple piece rod without doing that.

 

[Knobgoblin]

 

[bionic knees]

you guys take this stuff way too seriously.

 

[gmerkt]

I'll disagree with this one. I solely use aluminum inexpensive multi piece rods.

The problem with the rods included in "kits" isn't that they are segmented. Most such kits sold within the past 30 or 40 years contain rods made of aluminum, as mentioned. The softness of aluminum may seem benign, but many experienced shooters suggest that small bits of hard grit can get embedded in the rod material. Which can result in scratching a rifle bore. Brass is accused of this same potential, but I think it's less likely than aluminum.

Some shooters have expressed the same fear about nylon coated rods. Which are designed to present a soft rod surface inside the bore, but might also get grit embedded in them. I had one Dewey rod with the plastic coating, which shucked off in no time so I won't be buying another of those.

If you are using a rod guide, the joints in a segmented rod can be an issue. Aside from the joints, the aluminum just isn't going to flow as smoothly as steel. But I'm guessing most people using an aluminum rod aren't going to be using a guide.

Some of the older kits, like those available when I was a teenager, had segmented rods made of brass sections. I did have some made of aluminum. In those days, the bores in my mostly war surplus weapons didn't warrant much consideration about scratching. They had seen much worse already.

The shotgun rod that I've used for years is the segmented type. I've never felt it was as critical as having better rods for rifles. And I may be wrong about it.

The 30 caliber rod I use is an old US Army one piece brass garrison rod with the football-shaped knob on the end. I used one of these for 50 years until the threads finally wore out. Then I found another at the Goodwill to replace it. I have a couple of different length stainless steel Pro-Shot rods that I use for under 30 cal., I like those well enough. One thing, length matters. I don't like using the same long rod for the .35 Whelan on an AR carbine.

There are carbon fiber cleaning rods out there; I haven't tried one yet. They are claimed to not have a potential for embedding grit.

 

[kmk1012]

Damn, we are supposed to organize cleaning stuff?

I've got one of those hon filing cabinets in the garage. One of the drawers is dedicated to cleaning supplies.

Im down to 22lr, 223/556, 9mm and 12g so I'm a little less caliber rich these days.

I should incest in more snakes, those don't last very long…

I'm not so sure about your last sentence there @Reno. Not quite sure its the look we strive for on this forum

 

[Member 34319]

The problem with the rods included in "kits" isn't that they are segmented. Most such kits sold within the past 30 or 40 years contain rods made of aluminum, as mentioned. The softness of aluminum may seem benign, but many experienced shooters suggest that small bits of hard grit can get embedded in the rod material. Which can result in scratching a rifle bore. Brass is accused of this same potential, but I think it's less likely than aluminum.

Some shooters have expressed the same fear about nylon coated rods. Which are designed to present a soft rod surface inside the bore, but might also get grit embedded in them. I had one Dewey rod with the plastic coating, which shucked off in no time so I won't be buying another of those.

If you are using a rod guide, the joints in a segmented rod can be an issue. Aside from the joints, the aluminum just isn't going to flow as smoothly as steel. But I'm guessing most people using an aluminum rod aren't going to be using a guide.

Some of the older kits, like those available when I was a teenager, had segmented rods made of brass sections. I did have some made of aluminum. In those days, the bores in my mostly war surplus weapons didn't warrant much consideration about scratching. They had seen much worse already.

The shotgun rod that I've used for years is the segmented type. I've never felt it was as critical as having better rods for rifles. And I may be wrong about it.

The 30 caliber rod I use is an old US Army one piece brass garrison rod with the football-shaped knob on the end. I used one of these for 50 years until the threads finally wore out. Then I found another at the Goodwill to replace it. I have a couple of different length stainless steel Pro-Shot rods that I use for under 30 cal., I like those well enough. One thing, length matters. I don't like using the same long rod for the .35 Whelan on an AR carbine.

There are carbon fiber cleaning rods out there; I haven't tried one yet. They are claimed to not have a potential for embedding grit.

Never thought about that. I do recall earlier on using cheap aluminum rods getting gunked up by the threads. I would think polishing them removes some of the potential for grit embedding into the metal itself? I'll keep this in mind though and appreciate the response.

 

[Member 34319]

I'm not so sure about your last sentence there @Reno. Not quite sure its the look we strive for on this forum

Oops you caught another of my never ending typos. I don't think my phone and tablet get along with the autocorrect, or vice verse.

 

[Barfly]

bead containers. I have cut out individual barriers to make larger or longer compartments
View attachment 1410603

I use a similar tactic. I use the Plano (or similar) divided boxes that my tackle box uses. They work awesome for organizing your cleaning supplies and extra parts too!

 

[solv3nt]

solvent or lube will leak

I don't leak!

 

[Unka-Boo]

I don't leak!

As long as you don't burst!

 

[solv3nt]

As long as you don't burst!

I on occasion burst other people's bubbles

 

[MikeInOr]

I keep my cleaning kit in a cheap old rifle case. It is the only thing I have found that will hold my 1 piece cleaning rods. My bits and pieces are organized in Dillon blue plastic cases.

I like being able to toss my cleaning kit into the truck and take it with me when I go shooting. The rifle case makes that easy.

 

[Koda]

The rifle case kit is actually a good idea for 1pc rods....

 

[saw2]

I too have a box of random cleaning supplies . A few years ago I got this Allen kit has works great. Still have my catch all box but 95% of the time this kit will be what I grab. Has good bottom storage and once a brush or mop wears out I just replace it from catch all box.

Amazon.com

I also use the pippets Koda mentioned above they work great.