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A major maintenance point...do not use any type of scraping tool to clean the bolt tail.

Look at the cutaway diagram of the bcg, you'll notice the gas rings are forward of the chamber. The only thing keeping the gas from escaping to the rear is the precision cut mating surface of the bolt tail to the bolt carrier.

Using a cleaning tool such as scraper will eventually ruin the surface of the bolt tail and will cause gas to leak at that point and will cause cycling issues.
When discussing a fail to cycle issues, many areas are pointed out to check, but the above is rarely mentioned. I've seen a few ruined bolt tails from cleaning tools.

Happy cleaning...

bolt tool.jpg

cutaway.jpg
 
I'm lazy when it comes to cleaning guns. I don't have fancy solvents or anything. I spray the parts down with WD40, wipe them clean then a thin light oil treatment.

I definitely don't recommend the way I do it, but I haven't had any major failures either.
 
Hate cleaning BCGs. Too many intricate surfaces and hard to reach features. But the carbon build up bugs me...

No solution other than "elbow grease"
 
Hate cleaning BCGs. Too many intricate surfaces and hard to reach features. But the carbon build up bugs me...

No solution other than "elbow grease"
If it's really caked in carbon it gets dunked in CLR like my suppressor baffles would. No elbow grease required. Dunk, grab drink of choice, watch an episode of favorite show, come back and wipe free.
 
If it's really caked in carbon it gets dunked in CLR like my suppressor baffles would. No elbow grease required. Dunk, grab drink of choice, watch an episode of favorite show, come back and wipe free.
I will give this a try.
I keep mine clean because they are fairly new so hopefully a CLR bath wont take long.
 
I'm the worst at cleaning guns. I don't clean each engine part when I change my oil, so I guess I look at cleaning guns in the same light.

Copper fouling in the barrel? Blah, I only pay attention to it once accuracy suffers. On my pistols.....never. A few patches here and there and maybe a brush if I'm shooting lead out of one of my wheelies. I admit, they get more attention than my SAs.

Carbon fouling on the BCG? It generally wipes off when I spray some WD on it.

Gas system? Once in a while I'll clean it. But pretty much only after it stops cycling reliably. I'm not an operator nor a weekend warrior so I'm sure some will flame. :D

Even my EDC after a range trip......I won't clean it every time. Maybe after 500+ rounds I'll give it a wipe down.
 
I still remember the first time I used carburetor cleaner in front of another gun owner. The shear look of terror like I've sacrificed a goat or small child.
 
I still remember the first time I used carburetor cleaner in front of another gun owner. The shear look of terror like I've sacrificed a goat or small child.
I've used carb cleaner for anything from guns to barbecues to my hands if they're really greasy. I keep a can handy. 😎
 
Those stupid scrapers are not only a waste of money, but as mentioned, can shorten the life an AR bolt. By contrast I've never had a weapon malfunction from carbon build up and have gone have well over 6000 rounds between cleaning.
 
45 ACP shell or similar will remove the carbon on the back of the piston easily and cheap. The bolt tail never gets significant carbon buildup so it should not need scraping.

A tattle tale the bolt tail clearance is excessive is the firing pin retainer pin get bent from the leaking gases slamming the firing pin into the retaining pin. I have supposably quality bolts do this that had excessive clearance new.
 
I will give this a try.
I keep mine clean because they are fairly new so hopefully a CLR bath wont take long.

They're your guns do what you want with them but I suggest browsing their FAQ before doing so. Personally, if I'm using a water based product on my guns it will be Ballistol.

Is the CLR product nickel safe?
We do not recommend that CLR products be used on any metals except for chrome or stainless steel. Any 'polished' finish usually has a coating and most nickel materials are combination metals (containing zinc) and CLR products could compromise the finish.

Can I use CLR on my water heater?
No, Jelmar DOES NOT RECOMMEND the use of CLR on a water heater; however, there is a web site that does. Again, JELMAR DOES NOT RECOMMEND THE USE OF CLR IN A WATER HEATER. The reasons Jelmar does not recommend CLR to clean a water heater are: 1) the heat is not compatible with CLR; 2) the water heater cannot be promptly and thoroughly rinsed with cold, clean water; 3) the water heater might have internal metals that are not compatible with CLR.

Can I clean cast iron with CLR?
No, CLR cannot be used on cast iron; the acids in CLR will react with the metal.

Can I use CLR to clean out my radiator?
No, CLR should not be used on a car radiator for two reasons. First, CLR may not be compatible with the internal metals of the radiator. Second, it could have adverse effects if the CLR is not rinsed out completely.

CLR® Pro Frequently Asked Questions
 

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