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Since the 80's, I've always used Break-Free CLP with a USGI cleaning kit. The nylon cleaning brush and bronze bore brush soaked in CLP to clean (scrub) the carbon off the bolt tail and inside the BCG work just fine.

Don't need to steekin' scrapers!! :s0118:
 
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Can anyone recommend using RCBS sonic cleaner?


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Hate cleaning BCGs.
My least favorite thing about the design. That cavity in the BCG is a booger. I used to try to brush it out best I could with an oversized bronze brush and Hoppe's No. 9. I've found that Break Free (or military issue) CLR works pretty well without much if any other work. also G96 in the spray can (used to be G66 when it was first marketed) work pretty well.

Gas system? Once in a while I'll clean it. But pretty much only after it stops cycling reliably. I'm not an operator nor a weekend warrior so I'm sure some will flame.
You won't get any guff from me. My own preference is to keep my firearms pretty clean. From sad experience with my cousin's guns, leaving them sitting around for years can cause corrosion even with smokeless powder and non-corrosive primers.

The carbon build-up in the BCG cavity used to bug me a lot, but over time I've learned that getting it "pretty clean" is good enough. As long as you get most of the carbon out, it's not likely to interfere with operation. Meaning, a few black spots won't hurt anything.

I still remember the first time I used carburetor cleaner in front of another gun owner. The shear look of terror like I've sacrificed a goat or small child.
Now when I first read this, I assumed you meant the kind that is used in a tank like auto repair shops used when carburetors were common. Just the fumes from that will burn the hair out of your nose.

I've used carb cleaner for anything from guns to barbecues to my hands if they're really greasy. I keep a can handy.
But then I read this, and thought, "Maybe he means the thin stuff in the spray cans that you can buy anywhere." That stuff will dry your hands out, but the thick liquid stuff in the dunking tanks, I've seen tune-up mechanics of yesteryear with depigmented skin disease from exposure to it.

Those stupid scrapers are not only a waste of money,
I bought one, they don't really work as advertised.

Do you get carbon ring buildup in the neck area of the chamber?
I've never had the rings in any of my AR's get carboned up. But then again, I run my BCG's very wet. Which helps to reduce build-up and cleaning time. Plus, I don't typically fire thousands of rounds between cleanings.

do not use any type of scraping tool to clean the bolt tail.
I suppose putting it briefly on a wire wheel to get the carbon off is out as well?
 
The acetone based brake cleaner. It does dry the hands, but it really gets heavy grease off too.
 
will Simple Green hurt Nickle Boron, phosphate or Black Nitride coatings?
No, but will strip the oil out of phosphate so those parts will look different until you re-oil them. It's also one of the more eco-friendly products, so disposal is much easier. After I'm done cleaning, I rinse well in warm water then dry with an air hose.
 
I'm the worst at cleaning guns. I don't clean each engine part when I change my oil, so I guess I look at cleaning guns in the same light.

Copper fouling in the barrel? Blah, I only pay attention to it once accuracy suffers. On my pistols.....never. A few patches here and there and maybe a brush if I'm shooting lead out of one of my wheelies. I admit, they get more attention than my SAs.

Carbon fouling on the BCG? It generally wipes off when I spray some WD on it.

Gas system? Once in a while I'll clean it. But pretty much only after it stops cycling reliably. I'm not an operator nor a weekend warrior so I'm sure some will flame. :D

Even my EDC after a range trip......I won't clean it every time. Maybe after 500+ rounds I'll give it a wipe down.
I have ran M-16's and M-4 so hard that there would be crusty carbon build up anywhere it could go, and never had any buildup in the bolt gas rings or tail, usually it was the piston port that actually plugged first, or the barrel port, and sometimes even the gas tube on the bolt end! Never had to scrape a bolt or chamber, a good bore and chamber brush was all that was needed, then a good blow dri and dri lube and we were back in business! I would get carbon crusties so bad that you had to chip them off with a rock, but nothing in the inner works of the gun that would have negative effect, just wizz down the barrel and yank a knoted boot lace through it and it was GTG! Never had any sort of failure of any weapon that related back to poor upkeep, but had plenty that went hard bent for other reasons, usually over cooking a barrel, or breaking timing keys, which is why I always carried a couple of spares on my dog tag chain!
 
Don't over think the cleaning process...don't need to get it military clean, in fact military over cleans their rifles.

I don't use oil to lube with, I use grease...as it stays put.

I use hi-temp grease, the same I lube my tractor with, mixed with 30wt synthetic oil to get the right viscosity. Good down to -25 and doesn't burn off.

It doesn't take some fancy expensive lube to keep the AR platform running.

I haven't used solvent down barrels for over 25 years.. doubt anyone could tell. A heavy stiff nylon brushes do the job well
 
Don't over think the cleaning process...don't need to get it military clean, in fact military over cleans their rifles.

I don't use oil to lube with, I use grease...as it stays put.

I use hi-temp grease, the same I lube my tractor with, mixed with 30wt synthetic oil to get the right viscosity. Good down to -25 and doesn't burn off.

It doesn't take some fancy expensive lube to keep the AR platform running.

I haven't used solvent down barrels for over 25 years.. doubt anyone could tell. A heavy stiff nylon brushes do the job well
From what I've seen...
No inspection ready rifle is combat worthy.
No combat ready rifle is inspection worthy.
Choose.
 
Since the 80's, I've always used Break-Free CLP with a USGI cleaning kit. The nylon cleaning brush and bronze bore brush soaked in CLO to clean (scrub) the carbon off the bolt tail and inside the BCG work just fine.

Don't need to steekin' scrapers!! :s0118:
This has been my MO since at least the 80's, I hose it down with CLP and scrub with nylon cleaning brush and run a Bore Snake. I keep a small squirt bottle on hand to prevent dry BCG on the range/in the field.
 
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Get an NP3 BCG and nothing sticks to it.
I don't mess with my phosphate one.
Carbon build up makes a better seal on the tail and will scrape off the excess as it works.
 
"More guns are worn out by cleaning them, rather than shooting them." -- Famous Gunsmith

EDC guns, especially pocket carry guns, should be checked often debris, and at least field stripped and cleaned once a month. That includes magazines! You could be surprised at the quantity of junk that comes out of a rarely fired EDC gun. 🤓
 
"More guns are worn out by cleaning them, rather than shooting them." -- Famous Gunsmith

EDC guns, especially pocket carry guns, should be checked often debris, and at least field stripped and cleaned once a month. That includes magazines! You could be surprised at the quantity of junk that comes out of a rarely fired EDC gun. 🤓
I check my EDC monthly for lint. Now my belly button.....that sucker needs daily attention.

:D
 
Since the 80's, I've always used Break-Free CLP with a USGI cleaning kit. The nylon cleaning brush and bronze bore brush soaked in CLP to clean (scrub) the carbon off the bolt tail and inside the BCG work just fine.
^^Same here. I stick to bronze and nylon. I also use a skewer to guide a patch around the chamber and into all the corners.

I didn't know people were using scraping tools on their guns. I'm not even sure I know what that is. I keep a scraper in my Jeep for ice.

You won't get any guff from me. My own preference is to keep my firearms pretty clean. From sad experience with my cousin's guns, leaving them sitting around for years can cause corrosion even with smokeless powder and non-corrosive primers.
Me too. Anything that traps moisture will eventually lead to corrosion. Even on stainless steel. I know this from running a machine shop in the damp Pacific Northwest.
 

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