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I put the rifle below on a watch.......It sure is pretty




:eek: :rolleyes:



Boy, I don't know much about this game, do I? Here I was thinking if I was going to be up around a thousand dollars I should be looking for a Garand instead. This has happened before....I set my eye on something, for a certain amount. If and when the trigger is finally pulled it's costing well more that I had though it would. I suppose I'm not the only one.
It sat at around $700 for several days, then somebody blew up the bidding yesterday.
Now it's over twice that.
It is a beauty, but that's way high.
 
Might I get some input on this gun? I'd only need go to Salem to look at it.
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/733283904

Curious about the electric pencil work on the barrel in front of the stock. No ser # on the floor plate? Markings on the front sight? And the brass disc? I know what the "1" indicated by the arrow means. I'm curious how the 6,51 and 6,46 come into play. something to do with bore dimensions I'm guessing? Also the 2-0 with nothing indicated. I did see another gun with the "4" indicated.
 
Might I get some input on this gun? I'd only need go to Salem to look at it.
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/733283904

Curious about the electric pencil work on the barrel in front of the stock. No ser # on the floor plate? Markings on the front sight? And the brass disc? I know what the "1" indicated by the arrow means. I'm curious how the 6,51 and 6,46 come into play. something to do with bore dimensions I'm guessing? Also the 2-0 with nothing indicated. I did see another gun with the "4" indicated.
That is an attractive rifle. I am not sure about the wartime produced M96's but in the M98's in general the pre war guns have a better fit and finish. Those are some of the things the Swede Mausers are most prized for. Husqvarna had a long period where it was owned by the Red Cross. I don't remember the exact dates but it would be interesting to know.
 
Might I get some input on this gun? I'd only need go to Salem to look at it.
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/733283904

Curious about the electric pencil work on the barrel in front of the stock. No ser # on the floor plate? Markings on the front sight? And the brass disc? I know what the "1" indicated by the arrow means. I'm curious how the 6,51 and 6,46 come into play. something to do with bore dimensions I'm guessing? Also the 2-0 with nothing indicated. I did see another gun with the "4" indicated.
SAMCO was an arms importer and that is their "importer's mark" (not a desirable feature for collectors).
This one will not attract the collectors because of some parts not matching and the importer's mark.
Should be a good shooter, though.
 
Might I get some input on this gun? I'd only need go to Salem to look at it.
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/733283904

Curious about the electric pencil work on the barrel in front of the stock. No ser # on the floor plate? Markings on the front sight? And the brass disc? I know what the "1" indicated by the arrow means. I'm curious how the 6,51 and 6,46 come into play. something to do with bore dimensions I'm guessing? Also the 2-0 with nothing indicated. I did see another gun with the "4" indicated.

The range of numbers from 6.46 to 6.59mm refers to the diameter of the bore. The increments are very nearly spaced .0004" apart, or 4 ten-thousandths of an inch.

This disc is marked at 6.49mm. The pie-shape with 1-2-3 refers to the amount of -rust- observed in the bore, though I've never seen 'rust' in the bore of a Swedish Mauser. This disc is marked a #1, which is better than #2. The Swedes had certain standards for acceptable wear in their rifles, but it's almost unheard of to see a Swede barrel that's worn out.

The lower section is mostly unused. "Torped" refers to the boat-tail 139gr m/41 bullet. "Overslag" refers to over shooting, and the "str" is abbreviated for streck. There are 6300 streck in a circle. One streck equals .1m at 100 meters. This is really an indication of how high a bullet will strike the target in relation to point-of-aim. Where is the 2 -0 you mention? It DOES have correct T-marked foresight base, and an 0.5mm lower sight blade, too.

The wood is high, which means that it has never been sanded, but it should not be so shiny - rough finish is good in arctic weather.

tac
 
The range of numbers from 6.46 to 6.59mm refers to the diameter of the bore. The increments are very nearly spaced .0004" apart, or 4 ten-thousandths of an inch.

This disc is marked at 6.49mm. The pie-shape with 1-2-3 refers to the amount of -rust- observed in the bore, though I've never seen 'rust' in the bore of a Swedish Mauser. This disc is marked a #1, which is better than #2. The Swedes had certain standards for acceptable wear in their rifles, but it's almost unheard of to see a Swede barrel that's worn out.

The lower section is mostly unused. "Torped" refers to the boat-tail 139gr m/41 bullet. "Overslag" refers to over shooting, and the "str" is abbreviated for streck. There are 6300 streck in a circle. One streck equals .1m at 100 meters. This is really an indication of how high a bullet will strike the target in relation to point-of-aim. Where is the 2 -0 you mention? It DOES have correct T-marked foresight base, and an 0.5mm lower sight blade, too.

The wood is high, which means that it has never been sanded, but it should not be so shiny - rough finish is good in arctic weather.

tac

I was referring to the 6,51 followed by 2 through 9 and 6,46 followed by 7 through 0. I saw one rifle that appeared to have the 3 and 4 marked. Unless it was just a flaw or boo-boo from the field? Others have nothing marked. Are these numbers related to throat and muzzle erosion like you measure on a Garand for instance?

I'm guessing no marks is good, and the higher the number on either line marked is not as good? I did read some and it says you would replace that last number, 6,51 with the indicated number. So if 7 was marked the measurement at last check would have been 6,57? But "7" what? Not thousandths?
 
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It is Swedish, and the Swedes, like almost everybody else in the world, are metric. The 7 is 7 hundredths of a millimeter. The barrels are gauged in at least three places from the leade to the muzzle, and the average figure taken to evaluate and reckon the level of bore wear.

tac
 
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Swedish 96's are wonderful. Fit, finish and caliber are all incredible but the 98's have many upgrades in function and safety features. The 96 is at the end of the day still a small ring Mauser considered obsolete by WW2 standards lacking the safety and strength of the third locking lug, it has a cock on closing action considered less desirable than cock on opening by most people and gas management in the event of a ruptured case is inferior. Manufacturing quality and caliber have a greater variance in the 98 guns but many are just as fine as the 96. That being said, I love all Mausers, some of the finest I own are earlier yet in the form of 1891 Argentines. They were made by Ludwig and Lowe in Germany, the predecissor of DMW that made the later rifles. The 91 is frequently treated as an ugly stepchild because of it's exposed cartridge housing and unusual caliber (7.65 Argentine) but they are a work of art designed and built over 10 years before many other great bolt rifles that we are familiar with today. The caliber is powerful, it must have been a marvel on the 1891 battlefield. We were still issuing trapdoor Springfield's at the time in our country.
 
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Swedish 96's are wonderful. Fit, finish and caliber are all incredible but the 98's have many upgrades in function and safety features. The 96 is at the end of the day still a small ring Mauser lacking the safety and strength of the third locking lug, it has a cock on closing action considered less desirable than cock on opening by most people. Manufacturing quality and caliber have a greater variance in the 98 guns but many are just as fine as the 96.
In today's market, it's the excellent condition of many of the M96's that I noticed.
And the collectors are making their move on those now.
 
This mean I better fricken hurry then?
Keep your (powder) cash (dry) and at the ready, wait for the right rifle. It will come by. I just bought another Python that I never would have guessed I would do with the huge values assigned to them today. I bought it at Cabelas and with my discounts paid a little over 1000.00 for it. I ordered it from a different store, my store had an identical gun for 4,000 only without a few minor repairable flaws. You just have to watch and be ready when the deal comes along.
 

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