Misfeed in wet weather?

[Koda]

That was a great video.
Pretty much slapped me up side the head though...
Breakfree is typically my go to oil, and while I have a can of rem oil I grabbed once when I couldn't find anything else and needed something quick, I call it my expendable can and use it more for cleaning than lubricating...
Thanks for sharing that!

I wouldn't necessarily suddenly switch over to Rem Oil over that video though. That study was no where near conclusive as to which lube does a better job in any conditions above minus 65* F.

If it gets down to -65, I aint going anywhere... and probably got bigger concerns than if my 1911 works.

 

[Blastin]

not any of the most common and affordable ones.

I don't even like 1911's, but this is making me want a Professional – Wilson Combat

 

[Koda]

I don't even like 1911's, but this is making me want a Professional – Wilson Combat

you dont have to get a Wilson to get converted. All you have to do is shoot a cheap one....
go for it if you can afford it, but expensive 1911s are over-rated.

 

[Blastin]

you dont have to get a Wilson to get converted. All you have to do is shoot a cheap one....
go for it if you can afford it, but expensive 1911s are over-rated.

Really?
The one time I shot one I hated it.
It was a colt, but past that I have no idea what it was - it was several years ago.
Jammed every 4-6 shots and I have too much meat between my thumb and index finger and was having a hard time keeping myself beneath the beavertail.
Maybe if I had one that was more comfortable to me and didn't jam at least once a mag...

Before someone says, I'm sure it was not kept in good condition and would have been better if it was cleaned, had non-worn parts, or whatever it was.
Nonetheless, it was a poor first experience that left me with negative 1911 feelings.
I should get someone with a good 1911 to take me out sometime and give it another go...

 

[bbbass]

@sigmadog I can only say from my own experience, but 1911's need lots of lube, always have. Wet, wet, wet! I have had warm weather failures to cycle during IDPA and USPSA competitions where one is shooting lots and fast, and the gun starts out ok then starts to jam worse and worse. Master shooters showed me how... Lube needs to be on the entire rail of both the rcvr and slide for target shooting. For carry, I'd go with the gun butter = Tetralube or other such.

Edit: I forgot to say that yes, these jams are worse with a reduced power or weak recoil spring.

 

[Boboclown]

go for it if you can afford it, but expensive 1911s are over-rated.

Depends on what you're looking for. The Colt series 70 is the closest I can get to a M1911A1 before I do work on it (this summer most likely). If I went cheaper I'd need a new slide in addition to the other parts I need (and can't seem to find).

 

[bbbass]

The gun had been cleaned and lubed a month prior to last weekend's shoot (right after the previous shoot). In my opinion, I'm pretty stingy with the lubricant. I put a drop at the back end of each rail and set the slide on its end so the oil will run down the ramps. I usually don't oil the lower rails on the frame, assuming the oil on the slide will come in contact with them and do its job.

NOOOOOOOOOOO!! It's not a Glock, which hates extra lube.

 

[Koda]

Really?
The one time I shot one I hated it.
It was a colt, but past that I have no idea what it was - it was several years ago.
Jammed every 4-6 shots and I have too much meat between my thumb and index finger and was having a hard time keeping myself beneath the beavertail.
Maybe if I had one that was more comfortable to me and didn't jam at least once a mag...

Before someone says, I'm sure it was not kept in good condition and would have been better if it was cleaned, had non-worn parts, or whatever it was.
Nonetheless, it was a poor first experience that left me with negative 1911 feelings.
I should get someone with a good 1911 to take me out sometime and give it another go...

maybe your just not a 1911 thats ok too.
If it jammed every 4-6 shots then a better 1911 is a valid argument.... It is over a 100yr old design and there have been plenty of knock offs even foreign made "metric" ones and plenty of used ones that have worn out who knows. All I know is 3 I have shot are all "low end" or common brands (Colt, Springfield) and nothing over 1K brand new (2 Colts were less than $600 new) and they don't jam are plenty accurate and their external dimensions are not going to be practically any different than a $2000 Wilson combat 1911 so if your hands dont work with any 1911 then maybe its not the gun for you especially with a beavertail. Nothing wrong with that.

 

[Koda]

Depends on what you're looking for. The Colt series 70 is the closest I can get to a M1911A1 before I do work on it (this summer most likely). If I went cheaper I'd need a new slide in addition to the other parts I need (and can't seem to find).

I have nothing against expensive 1911s other than you dont need to spend that kind of money to own a reliable one for self defense. Im talking about any factory build, not customizing one yourself. That said I think the Rock Island 1911s are cheaper than Colts and are made with the original tooling the USGI 1911s were made from before they lost their contract to Beretta... correct me if Im wrong.

 

[Boboclown]

That said I think the Rock Island 1911s are cheaper than Colts and are made with the original tooling the USGI 1911s were made from before they lost their contract to Beretta... correct me if Im wrong.

Can't say for sure. However, while they have the serrations right the ejection port is not. They flare the ejection ports on the ones I've seen. And also lowered as well I think, can't remember. The Colt 70 series does not have a flared or lowered ejection port (the government model doesn't anyways).

Don't need the spend big money on a reliable 1911, but for what I'm going to do eventually it wasn't a significant difference in savings to go with a Rock Island Armory. All up to what you want out of it.

 

[Ura-Ki]

M1911's get a lot of differing opinions on lubing or not lubing so it all comes down to experimenting on YOUR gun to see what it likes! Just as there are many different 1911's out there, there are many different methods of lubing, and different lubes! Each of mine (17 of um) like a slightly different set up! I have always used Rem Oil with no adverse side effects, so that has been my experience with it. Some of my tighter guns like Hopps, some like CLP, Some like the Rem Oil! Just depends! For really cold conditions, a light/thin oil vs a grease makes sense, and for hot weather a thicker lube might run better! I never run grease on my 1911's with the exception of those fitted with a spherical bushing! There is an older video on the History Chanel about the Battle for Stalingrad, and one of the reasons the Jerri's got there butts kicked was gun lube issues, If you get the chance to watch that, you might be surprised at what the Russians did to over come this! For my !911's I like to lube all metal to metal contact points fully, rails, guide rod bushing, barrel bushing, and a drop on the link ends! I also fog a lube into empty mags for storage when unloaded!

 

[Ura-Ki]

Can't say for sure. However, while they have the serrations right the ejection port is not. They flare the ejection ports on the ones I've seen. And also lowered as well, can't remember. The Colt 70 series does not have a flared or lowered ejection port (the government model doesn't anyways).

Don't need the spend big money on a reliable 1911, but for what I'm going to do eventually it wasn't a significant difference in savings to go with a Rock Island Armory. All up to what you want out of it.

That IS one of the defining differences between a series 70 and the later "improved" series 80!

 

[Boboclown]

That IS one of the defining differences between a series 70 and the later "improved" series 80!

That's why I ignored all of the "improved" Colt 1911s.
And what do you know? It runs just fine with all the ammo I use.

 

[Ura-Ki]

I have several of both, honestly, I find it makes little difference in reliability! That said, when I build one, I always spec a series 70 slide, 5 less parts to eff up, and the 70's are known to be a bit more accurate!

 

[Koda]

Can't say for sure. However, while they have the serrations right the ejection port is not. They flare the ejection ports on the ones I've seen. And also lowered as well I think, can't remember. The Colt 70 series does not have a flared or lowered ejection port (the government model doesn't anyways).

well, Im probably wrong then, I thought I read somewhere that RIA bought the old USGI tooling for their govt models, but your right their govt models are flared and lowered. Makes me wonder if the 'newer' USGI guns were made that way...

 

[Koda]

There's my problem! I've been using raspberry jam!

ok, we found it. Stop using the jam...

The temps on the first time it happened were in the low 20's (F). Last weekend it was upper 20's.

The gun had been cleaned and lubed a month prior to last weekend's shoot (right after the previous shoot). In my opinion, I'm pretty stingy with the lubricant. I put a drop at the back end of each rail and set the slide on its end so the oil will run down the ramps. I usually don't oil the lower rails on the frame, assuming the oil on the slide will come in contact with them and do its job.

(emphasis mine)

coat those rails on all sides full length. Rack the slide many times then wipe off any excess that runs out.
Both the Wilson Combat 1911 manual and the USGI maintenance spec indicate the slide and frame rails to be "well lubricated"

 

[Vendor Hidden]

Lots of good information to consider. Thanks for all the help!

 

[bbbass]

M1911's get a lot of differing opinions on lubing or not lubing

For my !911's I like to lube all metal to metal contact points fully, rails, guide rod bushing, barrel bushing, and a drop on the link ends! I also fog a lube into empty mags for storage when unloaded!

I've never ever heard nor read about not lubing a 1911. Hmmm, maybe I just lack proper experience. However, I would venture to say that all of the top USPSA hot action shooters lube up their firearm right before a shoot. That's what I was taught. In the military we used a lot of oil, although some of our 1911s had been packed in Cosmoline grease and needed to be cleaned first. So to me, it just makes sense that metal to metal contact needs to be lubed even in weapons that were not made with tight tolerances.

I can understand that some guns like different lube, I was pointing out what worked for me. While understanding that a huge amount of oil/lube might not be acceptable for a carry piece. Therefore my recommendation for silicon gun butter. It's not much like a grease. But you yourself lube the same way I recommended.

In the long run you are probably right... use whatever works.

 

[Ura-Ki]

I have never run any of my 1911's dry, though we were instructed to use a dry film lube in our issue Delta Elites for the two years we had them in the sand box! We all laughed and put a few drops of oil on the barrel bushings and rails despite official protocol! I have never run into any of the issues the OP has posted, so I really can't offer advice here, but I also don't think the lube is causing his issues! I Agree with you bbbass on liberal lubing any gun that is going to be run hard and fast, and the more Steel on Steel contact, in my mind, the more lube is needed, and especially a bi metal 1911 that may have a steel slide and alloy frame! I am going to try that gun butter you speak of, sounds like a pretty slick lube, especially for the critical bushing contact area! That's one area I really am critical about!

 

[bbbass]

I am going to try that gun butter you speak of, sounds like a pretty slick lube, especially for the critical bushing contact area! That's one area I really am critical about!

If you get Tetralube, lemme know how that works on 1911. I use it for my Glocks and it is pretty slick but nearly dry or just very thin. That Slide Glide looks good, and there was something called UltraLube (I think).