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There are plenty of budget AR's out there that will work. Palmettos are great uppers for the price and my favorite for the price. But beware, there are lots of bad budget companies out there. Because of personal experience I won't recommend certain companies, but that's just personal, not because they make garbage. You just need to upgrade the BCG, buffer tube, buffer, buffer spring, do some trigger work, and try to find one that doesn't have a loose upper/lower fit. An Anderson lower and PSA upper gives you a decent base to build on.
I love my Anderson lower with a no name upper. Was cheap and works great. Frankly I can't imagine a sweeter trigger at any price, and I know a good trigger. It goes bang every time, and it's way more accurate than I am and the holes it pokes in paper are just as round as the most expensive AR. If I had to pay $1,000 for a AR I still wouldn't have one and would have missed a lot of fun and my kids/grandkids wouldn't be enjoying theirs either. Thank God for cheap AR's!! I could care less if my AR cost more or less than the guy next to me.
 
I love my Anderson lower with a no name upper. Was cheap and works great. Frankly I can't imagine a sweeter trigger at any price, and I know a good trigger. It goes bang every time, and it's way more accurate than I am and the holes it pokes in paper are just as round as the most expensive AR. If I had to pay $1,000 for a AR I still wouldn't have one and would have missed a lot of fun and my kids/grandkids wouldn't be enjoying theirs either. Thank God for cheap AR's!! I could care less if my AR cost more or less than the guy next to me.
The cost is not an issue to me either.......but a reliable accurate long living tool is. The Olympic arms lowers I used to build would chain fire frequently and the older they got, the worse they got. I have seen many after market ARs chain fire even recently at public ranges. The amount that the Oly's changed with use was alarming bringing into question the quality of the metal.
 
What a friend of mine did was get a bunch of good quality ARs where there were too many issues to fix, would take all the usable parts out, build a few really nice ARs, then sell all the leftover parts. He ended up spending about $1000 but got back $2000 from the parts and had a very nice AR and an AR pistol.
 
The cost is not an issue to me either.......but a reliable accurate long living tool is. The Olympic arms lowers I used to build would chain fire frequently and the older they got, the worse they got. I have seen many after market ARs chain fire even recently at public ranges. The amount that the Oly's changed with use was alarming bringing into question the quality of the metal.
I must say that would be more than a little unsettling!! Unless I was expecting it. Ran into a guy in the woods that had one that he shot "full auto". It was an expensive gun, so it's safe to assume that he'd modified it, don't recall how.
 
I must say that would be more than a little unsettling!! Unless I was expecting it. Ran into a guy in the woods that had one that he shot "full auto". It was an expensive gun, so it's safe to assume that he'd modified it, don't recall how.
A chain fire is much faster than an auto setting In a full auto, the "auto sear" holds the hammer for a fraction of a second allowing the chamber to be charged before the hammer falls on the firing pin. With a chain fire, the hammer follows the carrier down and strikes the pin in an uncontrolled manner. I have seen chain fires that emptied a magazine in a couple of seconds. It does get your attention.
 
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