So if I'm loading to SAAMI specs, I don't need to worry about the jam/jump, they should chamber properly in any rifle right? I don't have any custom specifications for any rifles I'm shooting, so there's no custom rifling or anything. Is there a benefit to jamming to the lands, or is that the no-no I'm trying to avoid?
I'll be honest, I'm a little confused. Headspace is the measure from the bolt face to the datum line where the shoulder contacts the mouth of the chamber, right? The gauges look like they all have a groove to indicate headspace tolerance in that regards. When I'm looking at seating depth, I'd be measuring for the jump/touch/jam to finesse my rounds for a particular rifle? I haven't gotten that far yet, I haven't seated anything, just making sure what I've gotten so far is safe to load. If I'm just putting together some plinking ammo for running through a few mid/low end rifles, do I need to really get that deep, or is SAMMI spec a good baseline?
Headspace, either by shoulder or case mouth, controls where the base of the cartridge is in relation to the breach face - get it wrong and the bolt won't close (inconvenient) / slide won't fully lock up (potentially much bad). Don't know if that answers your question or not.
Those two things are not the same. Loading to the lands is referring to the bullet seating depth and how close to the lands the bullet is or if it's touching, most will recommend not touching the lands.
I'd like to work my way up to better precision, but I also want ammo that will function in multiple firearms. I can respect the craft, but also understand a necessity for tolerances and thresholds. I'm not shooting competitively and I haven't gone hunting in years. Realistically, I only get out a couple times a year at best, and I'm not much of a good shot anymore. Being able to reload will hopefully put me in a better position to shoot more often. And I definitely don't want to do it wrong.
Phew, read all this to make sure no one mentioned already. At my beginning I was led to use the comparator on a live factory round and then compare my sized/decapped cases to that.
Focus on reliable is a good place to start. A comparator or a case gauge is nice to have, but you're rifle chamber is the final word. If you make your ammo to fit the tightest chamber you have it should work in every other gun of that caliber. I always like to say if it fits it ships just like FedEx. You might be surprised by the accuracy in spite of focusing on reliability. Some guns like a lot of bullet jump, some don't. It's not as standardized as most people who don't make ammunition think it is. Be sure of your powder charge, make sure your primer is seated and make sure the case fits. Have you fired any of your own ammo yet? I'd be interested to hear your experience. I broke into a hell of a sweat the first time I pulled the trigger on one of my own cartridges.
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No, I haven't completed anything yet. I've been cleaning, sizing, and trimming brass a little bit. Been spending more time on it reading and doing a little research. I'll have Tuesday and Wednesday to actually spend some more time at the bench. After I've got some completed, I'll have to make some time to get out and test it.
Dropping the hammer on your own ammo for the first time can be quite a rush... It'll be okay, just do it right. The first time I loaded for my 351 Winchester, I was extra nervous because there was no load data. I had to make it up off of the best available information and comparing data off of similar cartridges.
. I'm not gonna lie. I got a little flop sweat, ha ha. You're doing it right. You are asking questions and seeking knowledge. You won't have any worries. Several of us here will be very interested to hear how your first rounds work out and see some pictures. We want a range report! It's very gratifying to see a new reloader have a successful first outing. We who have been doing this a long time forget what it's like to have that pride in your first handcrafted ammunition.
Sending that first round down range is one of the best feelings. It's even better when you get to send a couple hundred down range at full auto that you've loaded.
My grouping definitely won't be tight
You might be surprised. Pleasantly.
That's what she said.
Well, to be fair, it is kinda like that, haha.
Die is set to low, back the die out about a 1/4 turn and lower the seater stem about 1/2 turn. Start there and adjust accordingly.
I'll do that. I guess I'm not gonna crimp. On another note...
yeah, I'm gonna don't do that again...
You can crimp still, this is a common thing that happens when not crimping on the cannular ring. Make sure that at least half of the cannular is covered by the neck and you should be able to crimp, if you want to crimp off cannular than you'll need to back the die out further to avoid mushrooming the shoulder. If you want to do a separate crimp than I'd get a FCD(factory crimp die) and do the crimping that way, more forgiving with varying neck lengths than a roll crimp.I'll do that. I guess I'm not gonna crimp. On another note...
View attachment 1889575
I slowly ran one in the sizing die without the decapping stem to see if I could get it to take shape and I think I made a +p ...
I'm definitely learning what not to do.
