Loading for accuracy, or for high production? Looks like it's for production. I'm a big Dillon fan... 650/750 for high production, 550 for medium.
The 550 struck me personally as the machine I was willing to use, but not fancier than I needed. Some of the steps of automation that are achieved with other machines I just simply don't have the need to do yet.
Yeah I noticed that but I'm still a little at odds because all I see are large primers, small primers, etc. etc. but no specifics to particular calibers.
Primers are not caliber specific, just type Pistol or Rifle. All reloading info sheets will list what primer you need for that round. Example: 45acp uses a Large Pistol Primers while 5.56 uses a Small Rifle Primers. 9mm use Small Pistol Primers while 308/7.62x51 uses Large Rifle Primers. There are also the Magnum Primers but again the load data sheet will till you which one you need. Over time you can start to tell just by looking at the cases.
I load match grade ammo on my Dillon 550. I would recommend the Dillon 550. I have been
You are correct that shooting .223 in 5.56 is not dangerous but the other way around can cause unsafe pressures. A 5.56 and .223 external cases are identical. Internal dimensions are different, with 5.56 offering less room than .223. This is what leads to unsafe pressure - if you use a .223 powder charge that approaches max capacity in a 5.56 case, the pressure is greater due to the reduced internal size and can cause a much larger boom than you are expecting. Way back when I used to sort cases individually to account for this which is a massive time suck. Now I simply use 5.56 load data which works safely in both cases.They sell shell casings, there are no 5.56 ony .223 cases? I thought you can shoot .223 with a 5.56 barrel but you cannot shoot 5.56 through a .223 barrel. So is it the bullet itself that is different thus why its a no no to shoot 5.56 through a 223 barrel?
Remember, I am new to all this so be nice...
). Thanks, I'm open to all input and everything here that's been suggested has been incredibly valuable for me.
Just to start I would get the same book as the dies. Lee will better explain the setup of their dies in Their own book. RCBS will best explain the best setup for their own as well. One thing to know is Lee ships their die sets with the correct shell holder.
You will learn a lot more about your loads using a single stage press. Once you have gotten really good at adjusting your dies, and troubleshooting the little problems, then you can concentrate on all the little issues with a progressive press.
Many reloaders started on a single stage press. For me it was the RCBS that my grandpa had that I inherited. After doing about 500 rounds that way and it taking literally about 4-5 times the amount of time to do it that way compared to using the Dillon progressive press, it just became an obvious economy of time decision to use a progressive press for me.
You can load one round at a time on the progressive press if you want to start out slow.
With the removable tool head on the Dillon 550 once the dies are set you no longer have to adjust when changing
Guilty as charged. Running a single stage press is so slow. If you are loading 20 Rifle rounds they are fine.
WOW that is a lot of calibers!I started out with loading just .38 Special and .357 Magnum with an RCBS Rockchucker single stage press and a set of RCBS carbide dies. The kit I purchased included a beam scale and Uniflow powder measure. I suggest you consider following a similar path.
Start out with what you shoot the most, acquire the basics and components and a couple decent manuals. Speer, Sierra, Hornady and Lyman all offer excellent step by step instructions. Today, you can also scour You Tube for videos walking you through the process. In 1981 when I started, I was blessed to have a mentor who walked me through the process on his equipment before I purchased mine. (Still probably the BEST way to learn, provided your mentor is competent
Once you determine if reloading is practical and enjoyable for you, then you can decide how far down the rabbit hole you want to go.
After I became confident in loading my .38's and .357's, I bought a set of RCBS dies for .243 Win (my only center fire rifle at the time). Since then, I have added 9mm, .40 S&W, .44 Mag., 10mm, .45 ACP, .223/5.56, 22-250, 6mm Rem, .270 Win, .270 WSM, 7mm TCU, 7mm-08, .280 Rem., 7mm Rem Mag, .30-30 Win, .308 Win, 30-06, .300 Win Mag and .338 Federal to the list of cartridges I have loaded. Most of them on the original RCBS Rockchucker.
A couple decades ago I added a Dillon 550 to load .38, .357, .44 Mag, 9mm and .223 Rem for higher volume. I didn't care for loading .223 on it, but have since added .45 ACP and .40 S&W and 10mm to the options.
Handloading for many is an enjoyable, productive hobby, but it isn't for everyone. It requires strict attention to detail and dedication to the process. You might check out Johnny's Reloading Bench on You Tube. He has a bunch of videos from basic stuff to highly specific cartridge information. His series on trying to match the Black Hills 5.56 77 gr match ammo is really quite good.
Avoid plastic or aluminum on high stress parts, do not over load the press, maintain it properly, and every one of them will outlast your grand kids.
It's not about fan boi sheite.
