Getting into reloading, where should I start?

[Benchrest]

I'd like to work my way up to better precision, but I also want ammo that will function in multiple firearms. I can respect the craft, but also understand a necessity for tolerances and thresholds. I'm not shooting competitively and I haven't gone hunting in years. Realistically, I only get out a couple times a year at best, and I'm not much of a good shot anymore. Being able to reload will hopefully put me in a better position to shoot more often. And I definitely don't want to do it wrong.

Perhaps the waters have been unnecessarily muddied.

Load to book specs, using the components (or very similar, never substitute powder) listed, and you're very unlikely to have an issue in a SAAMI chamber.

As Mark stated above, loading long (or just controlling the jump, or lack thereof) would be tailoring to a specific rifle (not much of a conversation for pistols); think of it in terms of trying to reduce a 750 yard group from 6" down to 2 1/2".

Didn't quite get there, but 4" was fairly consistent

 

[Local Loader]

Is a .005 or a .01 difference in the case length going to matter? After resizing and trimming some of my cases weren't even up to 1.75 And spec is 1.76, I trimmed everything that was over 1.755, But they are not all exact.

That size is fine, 1.76 is the max length for the case and I believe 1.72 is the is the recommended minimum.

 

[Mikej]

So... when seating, I messed up somehow... what causes this in the shoulder?

View attachment 1889547

What am I supposed to be seeing here?

We don't need to talk about the other one .

 

[Richo877]

That size is fine, 1.76 is the max length for the case and I believe 1.72 is the is the recommended minimum.

So if I bring it down to 1.745 and get them all uniform and apply the crimp, then it would seat and crimp them properly and uniformly and avoid the mushrooming?

 

[Local Loader]

So if I bring it down to 1.745 and get them all uniform and apply the crimp, then it would seat and crimp them properly and uniformly and avoid the mushrooming?

The case length isn't what will stop the mushrooming, it's the die setting. If all of the cases are the same length and the die is too low than you'll get the same issue. Whether you crimp on the cannular or not can determine if it mushrooms as well, as non-cannular require the die to be set higher than with bullets cannular, as long as you are crimping on the cannular.

 

[Mikej]

So if I bring it down to 1.745 and get them all uniform and apply the crimp, then it would seat and crimp them properly and uniformly and avoid the mushrooming?

If you're crimping with the roll crimp in the seating die, don't. Use a Lee factory roll crimp die and do it in a separate step.

 

[Local Loader]

Amazon.com

 

[Mikej]

http://[URL]https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-223-Factory-Crimp/dp/B000N8LFPI

[/URL]View attachment 1889621

He'll be glad he did!

 

[JuglansRegia]

So probably the easiest way to find out where to start with the seating die is to first remove it, then put an empty in your shellholder and raise the ram all the way, then slowly screw that seating die in until you feel slight resistance, that is your starting point for the seating die, then you need to put a projectile into the equation with the seating stem backed out and go a little at a time until you have the case mouth centered over the canelure.

 

[Local Loader]

So probably the easiest way to find out where to start with the seating die is to first remove it, then put an empty in your shellholder and raise the ram all the way, then slowly screw that seating die in until you feel slight resistance, that is your starting point for the seating die, then you need to put a projectile into the equation with the seating stem backed out and go a little at a time until you have the case mouth centered over the canelure.

That's a good way to go, when I first started I set mine using a factory round, turned till felt resistance, took round out than gave each an 1/8th turn more and locked them down. Adjusted accordingly when I changed bullets.

 

[ageingstudent]

That's a good way to go, when I first started I set mine using a factory round, turned till felt resistance, took round out than gave each an 1/8th turn more and locked them down. Adjusted accordingly when I changed bullets.

I agree, that's the easiest way to get started. Use a factory cartridge with the same weight bullet as the pattern. Even if the ogive is a little bit different, it will get you close and you can adjust from there.

 

[Richo877]

Congrats guys we did it! I think this is a successful first batch.

I used Fiocchi SRP, 24gr old Benchmark powder, and misc 55gr fmjbt.
I did notice after I got started that there are different bullets in the lot of projectiles I got.



It's a bit annoying that the cannelures are different distances, but now I know I've gotta separate them. I did weigh about half as I went through and everything checked out at 55rg, but I feel like I should go through and check all of them. Either way, the 50 I've gotten so far all measure up, pass the plunk test and hopefully fire.

 

[JuglansRegia]

Now you get to try them out. I remember trying out my first handloads, I read the abc's at least twice, maybe three times, I was pretty sure I did it all right, but also sure I didn't want find out the hard way if I didn't. So I strapped that Ruger Blackhawk down to an upside down chair and fired the first 6 rounds by pulling a string from behind cover. That was 31 years ago, no internet to seek advice from back then, imagine that.

 

[Richo877]

Now you get to try them out. I remember trying out my first handloads, I read the abc's at least twice, maybe three times, I was pretty sure I did it all right, but also sure I didn't want find out the hard way if I didn't. So I strapped that Ruger Blackhawk down to an upside down chair and fired the first 6 rounds by pulling a string from behind cover. That was 31 years ago, no internet to seek advice from back then, imagine that.

I appreciate all the advice and help along the way. Everybody here has been awesome about explaining things. I feel confident in them, but I'm sure I'll break a little sweat when I get to fire them the first time around. The powder I used is 10 years old, so if anything, they're underpowered, but hopefully still go bang.

 

[JuglansRegia]

I appreciate all the advice and help along the way. Everybody here has been awesome about explaining things. I feel confident in them, but I'm sure I'll break a little sweat when I get to fire them the first time around. The powder I used is 10 years old, so if anything, they're underpowered, but hopefully still go bang.

10 year old powder is young, 30+ years and its getting up there. 40-50 years old and you start seeing problems

 

[ageingstudent]

I appreciate all the advice and help along the way. Everybody here has been awesome about explaining things. I feel confident in them, but I'm sure I'll break a little sweat when I get to fire them the first time around. The powder I used is 10 years old, so if anything, they're underpowered, but hopefully still go bang.

We like to be as helpful as we can. It's kind of a time-honored tradition here. This is a very good forum. That's why I belong to it. We tend to be solutions oriented in the reloading section. Never hesitate to ask. Having another set of eyeballs on the problem is always a good idea.

 

[ageingstudent]

Now you get to try them out. I remember trying out my first handloads, I read the abc's at least twice, maybe three times, I was pretty sure I did it all right, but also sure I didn't want find out the hard way if I didn't. So I strapped that Ruger Blackhawk down to an upside down chair and fired the first 6 rounds by pulling a string from behind cover. That was 31 years ago, no internet to seek advice from back then, imagine that.

Had to pick up the receiver off the wall phone and use that dialy thing. Ha ha ha and then try and explain to somebody what you were having trouble with.

 

[ageingstudent]

I appreciate all the advice and help along the way. Everybody here has been awesome about explaining things. I feel confident in them, but I'm sure I'll break a little sweat when I get to fire them the first time around. The powder I used is 10 years old, so if anything, they're underpowered, but hopefully still go bang.

Have you kind of gone over what your testing protocol will be yet?

 

[Richo877]

Have you kind of gone over what your testing protocol will be yet?

Not yet. Obviously eyes and ears, but other than that, not really. Figured I'd just point and click, and hope for the best. Any suggestions on that note?

 

[oremike]

Don't worry too much about the canntilure, I just loaded some Hornady 117grRN's in my 25-06 to the COAL right out of the Hornady loading manual in brand new PPU brass and the canntilure is out of the case mouth by at least a 16th of an inch. In this case I think the canntilure is there to help prevent case/jacket separation rather than as a crimp guide. By seating to the factory OAL and not crimping as compared to my first test loads that were crimped in the groove my group size went from over a 2" group for the first test to a 3/4" group for the second. Also don't expect your first loading to be anything more than a repeatable benchmark that you can compare to. If the next load is better than the first then you can set a new benchmark and if worse then you can go back to the first. I've been making ammo a long time and this is how I do it still with a new rifle.