What did you reload today?

[Dr Prepper]

Powder Burn Rate Chart!

I knew I wanted to see one - I just did not know what to ask for.

Theres usually one in your reloading manual, im certian hornady 10th has one And the Lyman, i want to say the current Nosler has one.

Power pistol is great. It may not be the most accurate but definitely one of the most versatile pistol powders.

And yeah make damn certain you don't double charge, and also watch seating depths. If you accidentally seat one lower it will spike the pressure something terrible.
This could also happen under recoil and set the bullet back depending on the round.
Seating a round .0625" deeper can add something like 10k psi.

 

[eb in oregon]

Hornady's 11th is out now huh?
Do they have loads for all the new stuff. Mainly Im interested in .224 valk. And 460 rowland pistol cal.

Also kinda curious about say 6mm ARC and some of their other PRC rounds.

Thanks

One of the good things about reloading is the ability to handcraft loads using existing tables that are maybe not for a particular cartridge but a similar cartridge. As long as case capacity is close, bullets weights are the same, and you start at the lower end of the tables, you don't necessarily need a table for a specific cartridge. While there are a bunch of "new" cartridges out there there is nothing new about how they're loaded and really nothing much different from cartridges around for many years. While the pundit's extol the virtues of the newer cartridges they don't do anything different than many older cartridges. The biggest difference are the shorter cartridges designed to work in the AR platform, and that's about it. Barnes "Cartridges of the World" and Donnelly's "The Handloader's Manual of Cartridge Conversions" have more different cartridges (to include many wildcats) than you can shake a stick at and there are more than a few close enough to what you are loading to make it simple to develop a load.

Reloading Data Center

www.hodgdonreloading.com

https://2ivzpg2w2iz33sragfi2s2mp-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/460-Rowland-Load-Data.pdf

 

[deadeye]

Hornady's 11th is out now huh?
Do they have loads for all the new stuff. Mainly Im interested in .224 valk. And 460 rowland pistol cal.

Also kinda curious about say 6mm ARC and some of their other PRC rounds.

Thanks

224 valk = yes
460 S&W mag but no Rowland in pistol or rifle.
6mm ARC= bolt and gas sections

 

[eb in oregon]

Theres usually one in your reloading manual, im certian hornady 10th has one And the Lyman, i want to say the current Nosler has one.

Not always. I've a Speer, Hornady, Accurate Arms, and Nosler book and of the four only the Hornady book has a burn rate chart. But then it's probably a new inclusion to some books. Oh right, the burn rate chart I keep over my bench has 145 different powders, the Hornady book has 110 or so.

 

[Caveman Jim]

Finally found some time to finish swaging that bag of LC in 5.56, about 500 cases and cleaned them in walnut media.
There is 1,150+ ready for trimming if needed, I measured 20 cases and 16 were under 1.750...
Normally 75% need trimming.

 

[Mikej]

Finally found some time to finish swaging that bag of LC in 5.56, about 500 cases and cleaned them in walnut media.
There is 1,150+ ready for trimming if needed, I measured 20 cases and 16 were under 1.750...
Normally 75% need trimming. View attachment 891135

You do a lot of 5.56 and .223....I'm sizing/decapping my first. Going real smooth, but I'm wondering, is all brass stamped 5.56/nato, or with the nato cross/circle, or annealed, crimped primers? I'm looking at the primers close and see what looks like that elliptical partial circle. Haven't seen any with the 3/4 stake marks around the primer. I notice no difference in punching the primers? Shouldn't I feel the primer push past a crimp? I can feel no crimp at the upper edge of the primer pocket either. I'd rather not run into trouble when I go to prime these ya' know?

 

[Caveman Jim]

You do a lot of 5.56 and .223....I'm sizing/decapping my first. Going real smooth, but I'm wondering, is all brass stamped 5.56/nato, or with the nato cross/circle, or annealed, crimped primers? I'm looking at the primers close and see what looks like that elliptical partial circle. Haven't seen any with the 3/4 stake marks around the primer. I notice no difference in punching the primers? Shouldn't I feel the primer push past a crimp? I can feel no crimp at the upper edge of the primer pocket either. I'd rather not run into trouble when I go to prime these ya' know?

Well Mike, if it has the NATO cross or certain.223 headstamps, they get swaged unless I can actually see where somebody physically cut the crimp (I use a large lighted magnifier to check). I don't know but I can actually feel the tension of crimped primers versus non-crimped.
It's just my process to make sure that I don't waste primers, even before this Dempanic I loathe crushing primers.

 

[Mikej]

What are you cutting the crimp with? A uniformer? I've heard people using the chamfer tool, carefully. A "Swager' being done with the press?

 

[crossbow5]

For swaging the brass with the primer crimp, the Dillon Super Swage 600 is the very best. I tried the RCBS and the chamfer tool, but the Dillon gets the job done.

 

[Caveman Jim]

What are you cutting the crimp with? A uniformer? I've heard people using the chamfer tool, carefully. A "Swager' being done with the press?

An RCBS swager on the RCBS Reloader Special...

 

[eb in oregon]

You do a lot of 5.56 and .223....I'm sizing/decapping my first. Going real smooth, but I'm wondering, is all brass stamped 5.56/nato, or with the nato cross/circle, or annealed, crimped primers? I'm looking at the primers close and see what looks like that elliptical partial circle. Haven't seen any with the 3/4 stake marks around the primer. I notice no difference in punching the primers? Shouldn't I feel the primer push past a crimp? I can feel no crimp at the upper edge of the primer pocket either. I'd rather not run into trouble when I go to prime these ya' know?

Here's the deal. If the edge of the primer pocket does not have even the slightest of a radius it need be either swaged with the proper tooling or be cut out with a counter sink or some other tool. Trust me, trying to prime NATO cases without doing something for the crimped primer pocket leads to problems.

 

[Dr Prepper]

Second batch of annealed 556 brass. Got a few more to go. Working to get ALL my 223/556 brass in the same RTG prime condition.
Sorting it all got a little out of hand. Still need to do flash holes, swage, and primer pocket uniform etc. One day i will get there..
Roughly a thousand rounds here.

 

[Caveman Jim]

Second batch of annealed 556 brass. Got a few more to go. Working to get ALL my 223/556 brass in the same RTG prime condition.
Sorting it all got a little out of hand. Still need to do flash holes, swage, and primer pocket uniform etc. One day i will get there..
Roughly a thousand rounds here.

View attachment 891239

Brother please.... this cabinet is all unprocessed brass that I am seriously thinking of selling some of it because I'd be busy for the next 20 years processing it...
Saying this like Twisted Sister I wanna rock song
I WANNA FISH!!!

top shelf is .308
2nd shelf is 9mm
3rd shelf is 40S&W
4th shelf is .223
bottom shelf is all LC 5.56...

 

[Dr Prepper]

Brother please.... this cabinet is all unprocessed brass that I am seriously thinking of selling some of it because I'd be busy for the next 20 years processing it...
Saying this like Twisted Sister I wanna rock song
I WANNA FISH!!!
View attachment 891250
top shelf is .308
2nd shelf is 9mm
3rd shelf is 40S&W
4sth shelf is .223
bottom shelf is all LC 5.56...

I have roughly the same. Only i Don't have a fancy cabinet
It sound like you spit in the eye of the 'rona gift horse.. Or something like that. This was our year to get all our "poop in a group". I think i got ALL my other calibers all 100% cleaned sized and sorted and ready to go. I've been putting off the 223/556 because its fairly daunting. But once you just say F it and dive in it starts going faster than you think.
I procrastinate too much. And im totally sick of it. Its time to get 'er done! Collecting components isn't near as fun as shooting them and making small groups.

But i have sold quite a bit of random brass i don't shoot. And made a decent bit of money at that. I highly recommend picking a solid quality variant and then selling the rest.
To be honest. I may end up selling some of this brass too. Not sure yet.

 

[RVTECH]

An RCBS swager

I have one of these and may be putting it up for trade soon.

What little .223 I reload is easily covered with all the non-military brass I have so no real need for it.

 

[Twodogs]

Setup the Dillon to run some .44 mags today going to try Barnes 225gr bullets never ran them before and this will be out of my encore rifle so they should scoot right along. loaded two box's of them 40 rds total with a max charge of H-110.

 

[ageingstudent]

What are you cutting the crimp with? A uniformer? I've heard people using the chamfer tool, carefully. A "Swager' being done with the press?

I use that bench mounted rcbs swager or a drill mounted chamfer/uniformer. Gotta say I prefer the swager. I don't see why you couldn't do it on the press I know Dillon and rcbs both make press mounted swagers among others.

 

[Dr Prepper]

Brother please.... this cabinet is all unprocessed brass that I am seriously thinking of selling some of it because I'd be busy for the next 20 years processing it...
Saying this like Twisted Sister I wanna rock song
I WANNA FISH!!!
View attachment 891250
top shelf is .308
2nd shelf is 9mm
3rd shelf is 40S&W
4sth shelf is .223
bottom shelf is all LC 5.56...

Another batch of tumbled, another one in the tumbler..
ALL of my gear is pretty much manual as well. 100% single stage

 

[Mikej]

An RCBS swager on the RCBS Reloader Special...

Here's the deal. If the edge of the primer pocket does not have even the slightest of a radius it need be either swaged with the proper tooling or be cut out with a counter sink or some other tool. Trust me, trying to prime NATO cases without doing something for the crimped primer pocket leads to problems.

Well that's good enough for me! You guys been doing the long gun a lot longer than I have. And this is my first experience with NATO/Military brass. That RCBS set-up seems reasonable, quicker than using a hand reamer and more precise than dinking with the chamfer tool. A good member has offered to loan me their set-up. I'll play with it and then see about getting the RCBS tool.

 

[Dr Prepper]

Well that's good enough for me! You guys been doing the long gun a lot longer than I have. And this is my first experience with NATO/Military brass. That RCBS set-up seems reasonable, quicker than using a hand reamer and more precise than dinking with the chamfer tool. A good member has offered to loan me their set-up. I'll play with it and then see about getting the RCBS tool.

I kinda liked the idea of swaging and not removing material when i got started. But yet "forging" the material out.
Theres many good systems. I suggest (unfortunately) watching youtube videos. The dillon and RCBS bench top mounted ones i think are best. I have the rcbs one. I wish the end of the little stem (inside) was cushioned with like a urethane bumper. Nothing is ever perfect though if you ask me.
I set mine up with a small bungie cord so its basically spring loaded open. And i also put a small under the little cam pin to keep it from falling out. Kinda annoying design. Lots of adjustments but once setup correctly it seems to work great so far.