Manual Dial Locks and Electronic Locks - What do you folks want to know?

[Pete F]

You could also get a redundant safe lock-- that means it's mechanical and digital

AMSEC LP Rotobolt Redundant Lock (Dial Combo and Electronic) Retrofit Kit

The LP Rotobolt Redundant Lock features both a dial lock and a digital lock together. This lock is designed for those who are concerned about the digital lock failing as well as those concerned about an EMP blast. The LP Redundant Lock allows the digital lock to be used as the everyday lock to...

www.safeandvaultstore.com

I've always wondered how well those work. Is the mechanical as good as a dedicated manual and the eklctronic as good as a dedicated electronic?

I have thought about getting one.

 

[Flopsweat]

I'd be curious how they determined that.

There must be a U.S. military spec on EMP resistance, measured it flux or whatever. The tricky part I suppose would be safely generating that much energy. There may be one or two labs that will do it for you.

 

[DLS]

I know it was rhetorical. My point was that I felt I was qualified to do it, but I wasn't good at it.

Have you ever done maintenance on any of the locks? It should be done about every 4 years.

What exactly is done during maintenance?

 

[billdeserthills]

I've always wondered how well those work. Is the mechanical as good as a dedicated manual and the eklctronic as good as a dedicated electronic?

I have thought about getting one.

The mechanical part of the Lock is connected the same way as any mechanical safe lock. I have one in my inventory but I haven't tried it out

 

[billdeserthills]

I recently opened a clients safe, it had a digital lock and someone had pressed too hard on one of the number buttons. Unfortunately that number would no longer work, I swapped out the keypad and easily opened her safe. Just one more thing to break that nobody has yet mentioned...

 

[billdeserthills]

What exactly is done during maintenance?

I didn't spend the last 50 years working my trade to reveal that on this forum

 

[Yarome]

What exactly is done during maintenance?

I'm not a lock tech, but my understanding is they break down/disassemble the locks wheel stack, inspect, clean, lube and replace any worn or broken parts. Nothing all that mystical or top secret.

It's a mechanical device so wear happens. I think environmental issues play a part, overall quality of the lock itself, as well as how hard/often you're using it. Personally, I don't manipulate my safes dials all that often and an annual "end-user" maintenance schedule has kept mine clean, lubed, and functionally as intended for an incredibly long time.... at least.... if you take it at face value that they "need" professional maintenance every 3-4 years. If so, then mine are both many times over past their "required' professional maintenance interval. (Aka, "never")

 

[DLS]

Thanks @Yarome, that's pretty much what I figured.

@billdeserthills , I wasn't trying to steal any trade secrets, I was just wondering what I would be paying for ... and you did post "what do you want to know".

 

[billdeserthills]

Thanks @Yarome, that's pretty much what I figured.

@billdeserthills , I wasn't trying to steal any trade secrets, I was just wondering what I would be paying for ... and you did post "what do tou want to know".

Nope, you have me confused for the op

 

[Yarome]

I'll ask a question... what do folks recommend for manual lock lube/protectant? I've typically been using houdini but are there any newer products out that may be better?

The main thing I like is the all natural ingredient... non petroleum/silicone/etc element that seems to do well at preventing any sort of buildup.

 

[billdeserthills]

I'll ask a question... what do folks recommend for manual lock lube/protectant? I've typically been using houdini but are there any newer products out that may be better?

The main thing I like is the all natural ingredient... non petroleum/silicone/etc element that seems to do well at preventing any sort of buildup.

I like graphite inside standard pin tumbler locks. I use Teflon grease inside the lock, where dust can't get to it.

Houdini is a well known spray lube but spray lubes don't stay on wear parts like Teflon grease does

 

[billdeserthills]

I actually had a woman locked out of her gun safe months ago. Her digital lock worked fine but the door bolts were so lacking lubrication that they would not retract. Had I sprayed them with lube they would have worked for awhile but instead I greased them with the Teflon grease and they'll work for years

 

[Snopczynski]

I think I'm going to opt for this one. It's EMP resistant. If there's a problem when the apocalypse arrives I have a cutting torch.

Sargent and Greenleaf S&G Model 2007-102 Titan DirectDrive Electronic Safe Lock

View attachment 1489370

I would go with the standard Titan if you are going to choose one. The D-Drive is a pain to change the battery on (everyone tears the battery lead, and cannot get the nub end between the prongs). I personally would do a Securam Prologic L01 though. Especially if you were going to install it yourself. The super code, master code, and encryption code will need to be changed though. The left side relocker hole on the titan is is really shallow and you cannot install a screw in it that touches the bottom. It will bulge the inside of the case and the lock will stop working.

 

[Snopczynski]

You could also get a redundant safe lock-- that means it's mechanical and digital

AMSEC LP Rotobolt Redundant Lock (Dial Combo and Electronic) Retrofit Kit

The LP Rotobolt Redundant Lock features both a dial lock and a digital lock together. This lock is designed for those who are concerned about the digital lock failing as well as those concerned about an EMP blast. The LP Redundant Lock allows the digital lock to be used as the everyday lock to...

www.safeandvaultstore.com

There isn't currently a redundant lock on the market that is reliable. I would not view this as a good option. I replace a lot of them.

 

[Snopczynski]

I'd be curious how they determined that.

They put it in a concrete bunker at a facility in Virginia and set a pulse off inside the bunker. Then pull it out and see if it still works. Securam had the same thing done on some of their locks.

 

[Snopczynski]

Personally, before I let a stranger anywhere near my open safe, I would just buy a new S&G Group 2 lock from Amazon and install it myself, since they are less then a $100 bucks.

It can be a pretty tough install. especially if the safe was chinese made or it was hand made (dial alignment on them is pretty crucial for longevity, and so it rotates smoothly).

 

[Snopczynski]

I like graphite inside standard pin tumbler locks. I use Teflon grease inside the lock, where dust can't get to it.

Houdini is a well known spray lube but spray lubes don't stay on wear parts like Teflon grease does

Inside a lock near any wheel packs, I would only use Shell 22 (there is only a few places you can put it). On the cam and dial bushing I would use super lube.

 

[Snopczynski]

I actually had a woman locked out of her gun safe months ago. Her digital lock worked fine but the door bolts were so lacking lubrication that they would not retract. Had I sprayed them with lube they would have worked for awhile but instead I greased them with the Teflon grease and they'll work for years

I run into that a lot on Sentry, Stack-on, and Sports afield safes. I typically coat the bolts with super lube, and then operate them several times.

 

[American123]

They put it in a concrete bunker at a facility in Virginia and set a pulse off inside the bunker. Then pull it out and see if it still works. Securam had the same thing done on some of their locks.

That's neat, thanks.

 

[ZigZagZeke]

I would go with the standard Titan if you are going to choose one. The D-Drive is a pain to change the battery on (everyone tears the battery lead, and cannot get the nub end between the prongs). I personally would do a Securam Prologic L01 though. Especially if you were going to install it yourself. The super code, master code, and encryption code will need to be changed though. The left side relocker hole on the titan is is really shallow and you cannot install a screw in it that touches the bottom. It will bulge the inside of the case and the lock will stop working.

Does it make a difference whether the actual locking lug is a sliding bar or a pivot block for fitment and operational purposes?