JavaScript is disabled
Our website requires JavaScript to function properly. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser settings before proceeding.
I have more issues with dial than digital. Cheap dials are just as bad as cheap digitals. If you go in and out of a safe a lot, don't go cheap with either type.

The only problems I have had with changing a battery on one is the new battery was bad. I change my personal and organizations digital batteries annually when I change the smoke detector batteries.
 
Can you give us a ballpark figure on what the conversion parts ran you? Just curious in case I decide to swap mine out.
$110.


On Amazon, the listing says it doesn't come with a code change key, but it does.
It was an exact fit for the Lagard electronic that I took off. The old keypad was harder to remove (permanently attached) than it was to install the new lock.


I have more issues with dial than digital. Cheap dials are just as bad as cheap digitals. If you go in and out of a safe a lot, don't go cheap with either type.

The only problems I have had with changing a battery on one is the new battery was bad. I change my personal and organizations digital batteries annually when I change the smoke detector batteries.
I've already opened it 30 times (superstitious). Many of those openings was to make sure that it wasn't sloppy or too tight.
The dial bezel screws need to be properly torqued. The ones supplied are #8-32. I didn't like those, and tapped the mounting holes for #10-32 and some stainless socket pan head screws I had on hand.
I have another safe where the bezel had worked loose and you had to know where the original zero was in order to unlock the safe.
Graphite lubrication in the lock mechanism also helps.
 
Last Edited:
I use a lot of graphite but mainly inside key-operated locks. Most safe wheels are made from brass, at least the moving parts are because brass is a self-lubricating metal. I understand delrin has similar properties

oil attracts dust, that's why I put graphite inside pin tumbler locks but if you put too much in, then the key won't go all the way in anymore
 
I use a lot of graphite but mainly inside key-operated locks. Most safe wheels are made from brass, at least the moving parts are because brass is a self-lubricating metal. I understand delrin has similar properties

oil attracts dust, that's why I put graphite inside pin tumbler locks but if you put too much in, then the key won't go all the way in anymore
On my safe with the Lagard wheel and lock set, graphite didn't do much for the rubbing of the lock internals. I also have a can of CFC based teflon spray that leaves a dry Teflon film when you spray it on. That was the fix, turned my lock set into a smooth, quiet system as if it was riding on bearings. Once I got the locking rod guide sleeves lightly lubricated, my lock and door has been butter smooth ever since.
 
On my safe with the Lagard wheel and lock set, graphite didn't do much for the rubbing of the lock internals. I also have a can of CFC based teflon spray that leaves a dry Teflon film when you spray it on. That was the fix, turned my lock set into a smooth, quiet system as if it was riding on bearings. Once I got the locking rod guide sleeves lightly lubricated, my lock and door has been butter smooth ever since.
I used to use teflon spray a lot but it doesn't usually last very long. I use Super Lube teflon grease in places that aren't dusty & Super Slick stuff in places graphite doesn't belong




Slick Stuff doesn't attract dust but it's thin so it doesn't last the way teflon grease does
 

Upcoming Events

Centralia Gun Show
Centralia, WA
Klamath Falls gun show
Klamath Falls, OR
Oregon Arms Collectors April 2024 Gun Show
Portland, OR
Albany Gun Show
Albany, OR

New Resource Reviews

Back Top