Manual Dial Locks and Electronic Locks - What do you folks want to know?

[Snopczynski]

Interesting. So you're saying that only a qualified technician is capable of changing a dial lock and a person "must" pay up to release their new combination "into the wild"... or go with an electronic lock?

Choosing a safe company that allows "opt-out" of your safes master code retention and trust it is actually deleted from their files... as well as any data storage backups(?)

I find that interesting since I've changed my mechanical locks successfully on more than one occasion and have found the only real "issue" in choosing a lock/safe option is how accessible the change key slot is. Some with easy access at the rear of the lock mechanism and others requiring you to remove the inner door panel to gain access... which is kind of a PITA.

To each their own, I guess. For $24 for a key with unlimited number of uses... I think I'll keep my combo's "private".

I would pay a safe technician to do the dial combo change, its not worth the bad things that can happen if it is not done correctly. Some would say its easy do, I would say its also easy to screw up. You have to remember, I have some some real nightmare jobs because of folks attempting to work on their locks themselves.

I am not sure I understand what you mean with this statement? Are you asking me a question?
"Choosing a safe company that allows "opt-out" of your safes master code retention and trust it is actually deleted from their files... as well as any data storage backups(?)"

If you have a certified safe tech set the combo onsite, they don't send it anywhere. That is it, you are the only one with it, at that point. The lock should be shocked to make sure the combinations numbers will not drift, and it needs to be checked high and low to make sure the opening is centered under the lever arm. There's quite a few other things that should be checked inside the lock as well when in there doing the change.

 

[jbett98]

If you were an automotive brake technician, would you be advising the folks here to not replace their brake pads and rotors because of the possibility of a failure might happen in the future, even though they were competent mechanically?
Or, not to reload their own ammo, since they might screw up and have some sort of safety issues.

 

[Snopczynski]

If you were an automotive brake technician, would you be advising the folks here to not replace their brake pads and rotors because of the possibility of a failure might happen in the future, even though they were competent mechanically?
Or, not to reload their own ammo, since they might screw up and have some sort of safety issues.

The plot thickens! I actually have an associates degree in automotive technology. I held full ASE certifications, including an L1 certification. I was a Master Tech for Audi from 2000-2007. When I started as a Safe Tech in January of 2008. It really took me a while to be "Good" at changing combinations. It also took me a while to be good at servicing locks and recognizing issues presented to me that needed to be fixed before changing the combination and leaving the customers home. I can honestly say, this is a job that should be left up to a technician. These things are a box designed to keep people out, it really can turn nasty if something is wrong with the lock or if something's done wrong with changing the combination.

I am a competitive shooter and reload my own ammo too .

 

[Yarome]

I am not sure I understand what you mean with this statement? Are you asking me a question?
"Choosing a safe company that allows "opt-out" of your safes master code retention and trust it is actually deleted from their files... as well as any data storage backups(?)"

(It was rhetorical.)

I guess I view it in terms of risk and reward. In practice... over the years I've changed the combo's on both of my safes three times each at the cost of $15 (the keys were much cheaper... back when). Having been successful, and considering it may have cost me around $125 a pop to have a tech do it, I've theoretically saved myself $735. In the event I screw one up at some point... I have up to $735 available to pay to have the issue rectified and still "break even". If I never mess one up then it simply remains money in my own pocket.

That's kind of the nature of most DIY projects. Lifelong experience has proven to me that anything you "can" do for yourself... it is in your own best interest to do so.

The additional bonus, of course, being the intangible peace of mind that I am the only one that knows my combo. I know it was said.... once a tech sets it, he forgets it... but that really boils down to trust in a person you don't know from Adam. How many crimes are committed or facilitated by "insiders" that had the full trust of the person/s that placed them in that position of trust(?) (rhetorical) There are no assurances/guarantees.

 

[jbett98]

When I bought my house 35 years ago, I went to my State Farm insurance agent and asked for homeowners insurance.
He tried to talk me into a very low deductible policy. I asked him how much a low deductible policy ($500.00) compared to the highest deductible offered $1,500) and the difference was that I would save $200.00 a year with the higher one.
I've never made a claim in the intervening years and saved $7,000 bucks.

 

[ZigZagZeke]

It depends on what model lock it is. There is a couple that HAVE master reset codes that CANNOT be changed. Do you have any idea what the lock model is? Just an FYI, they can all pretty much use the same keypad.

Sargent & Greenleaf S&G Model 1004-102

 

[Alexx1401]

Here is a good video on how to change an S&G dial lock.
You will need to buy the group 2 change key. Amazon sells them for $17.00

Now that was interesting little video. Had no idea it was that easy to change these things.

 

[Snopczynski]

Sargent & Greenleaf S&G Model 1004-102

I would have that lock changed out because of the reliability/longevity of it. It made an appearance for a very short time in the industry, and we had a LOT of problems with it. I am not aware of any way to change the reset code in it, they don't have anything in the instructions like they do for the Titan.

 

[Snopczynski]

(It was rhetorical.)

I guess I view it in terms of risk and reward. In practice... over the years I've changed the combo's on both of my safes three times each at the cost of $15 (the keys were much cheaper... back when). Having been successful, and considering it may have cost me around $125 a pop to have a tech do it, I've theoretically saved myself $735. In the event I screw one up at some point... I have up to $735 available to pay to have the issue rectified and still "break even". If I never mess one up then it simply remains money in my own pocket.

That's kind of the nature of most DIY projects. Lifelong experience has proven to me that anything you "can" do for yourself... it is in your own best interest to do so.

The additional bonus, of course, being the intangible peace of mind that I am the only one that knows my combo. I know it was said.... once a tech sets it, he forgets it... but that really boils down to trust in a person you don't know from Adam. How many crimes are committed or facilitated by "insiders" that had the full trust of the person/s that placed them in that position of trust(?) (rhetorical) There are no assurances/guarantees.

I know it was rhetorical. My point was that I felt I was qualified to do it, but I wasn't good at it.

Have you ever done maintenance on any of the locks? It should be done about every 4 years.

 

[ZigZagZeke]

I would have that lock changed out because of the reliability/longevity of it. It made an appearance for a very short time in the industry, and we had a LOT of problems with it. I am not aware of any way to change the reset code in it, they don't have anything in the instructions like they do for the Titan.

Would this one be a better choice?

Sargent & Greenleaf S&G Model 2006-102 Titan Pivot Bolt Electronic Safe Lock

Amazon.com

 

[Certaindeaf]

I work on gaslights so I'm fully qualified.

 

[Snopczynski]

Sargent & Greenleaf S&G Model 2006-102 Titan Pivot Bolt Electronic Safe Lock

Amazon.com

The Titan has been an excellent lock. I would get one with the soft touch keypad and overhead light though. Also, it's gonna come with a yellow tag on the battery tray that's says "discard when put into use". Don't throw it away, leave it there so it's easier to get the battery tray out.

 

[American123]

I have an AmSec 26 gun safe that has had the mechanical lock replaced with a Sargent & Greenlee digital lock. It's a lot faster to open, and the master code has been changed. Are there any drawbacks to this situation over the mechanical lock?

The serious preppers will ask you about an EMP and what kind of spot you'd be in if the electronics to open that safe were fried.

 

[Yarome]

The serious preppers will ask you about an EMP and what kind of spot you'd be in if the electronics to open that safe were fried.

It is military grade EMP resistant, but if you run out of 9v batteries... or equivalent... you're SOL. For the preppers... I would be more concerned about water damage. They aren't water resistant.

 

[Yarome]

Have you ever done maintenance on any of the locks? It should be done about every 4 years.

Annually. Inspect, clean and lube, but have never had the pack broken down for cleaning. I'm aware of the indicators, but with annual maintenance and well over a couple decades of use I've never noticed any indication a full breakdown and cleaning was warranted.

If I was unlocking/locking it regularly on a daily or weekly basis I might be more inclined to have a professional service schedule.

 

[jbett98]

Personally, before I let a stranger anywhere near my open safe, I would just buy a new S&G Group 2 lock from Amazon and install it myself, since they are less then a $100 bucks.

 

[P7M13]

Personally, before I let a stranger anywhere near my open safe, I would just buy a new S&G Group 2 lock from Amazon and install it myself, since they are less then a $100 bucks.

Given your set of toys, I'd be the same.

 

[ZigZagZeke]

The serious preppers will ask you about an EMP and what kind of spot you'd be in if the electronics to open that safe were fried.

I think I'm going to opt for this one. It's EMP resistant. If there's a problem when the apocalypse arrives I have a cutting torch.

Sargent and Greenleaf S&G Model 2007-102 Titan DirectDrive Electronic Safe Lock

 

[billdeserthills]

It is military grade EMP resistant, but if you run out of 9v batteries... or equivalent... you're SOL. For the preppers... I would be more concerned about water damage. They aren't water resistant.

You could also get a redundant safe lock-- that means it's mechanical and digital

AMSEC LP Rotobolt Redundant Lock (Dial Combo and Electronic) Retrofit Kit

The LP Rotobolt Redundant Lock features both a dial lock and a digital lock together. This lock is designed for those who are concerned about the digital lock failing as well as those concerned about an EMP blast. The LP Redundant Lock allows the digital lock to be used as the everyday lock to...

www.safeandvaultstore.com

 

[American123]

View attachment 1489370

I'd be curious how they determined that.