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It is all good and your price is good, having the powder checked when refilling the hopper after about six or so consecutive drops, just to to get it back into the correct settling and compression is a good idea. I have found mostly those first half dozen drops can cause a fairly large variation. For me there is just a bit to much at times when refilling.
I don't have power baffles in all of my powder drops and those are the ones that make the largest change.

I would also at least check the brass for length at random after two or so firings, Depending on the trim length.
If we were shooting .223 cambering I would have already done a chamber cast. No sense having a plugged chamber neck, shoulder to bullet situation. More than likely any 5.56 x 45 chamber would never see the day. But there are people reading this as though it is good advice, there is a bit of time spent before someone knowledgeable enough makes some of these decisions.
I was exaggerating you make a good point I do check when I fill the hopper , much better way to put it . I own a lot of 556 chambers , no 223 .... well a mini 14 I guess . I'm one of those douches' running around shooting steels . I like to shoot at the 600 yard line too , I weigh all the brass , projos... segregate , trickle charge and all that fun stuff for those .
 
When I lube plinking brass it's put in a gallon ziplock and sprayed liberally with one shot , mixed up and run through the press.... about 100 at a time . 1000's , never stuck one yet using that process for lubing training rounds
 
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Attached are pictures of my portable reloading setup.
I think I should rephrase my question.

Preparing the brass, Is it best to:
- clean the brass, then decap/resize
- decap, clean then resize
or....?

Is it best to load using progressive, single stage or turret press

I am new to reloading and I learn from this forum everyday. I appreciate your inputs.
 
It depends if you want to be proper . If I really don't care I tumble with primer in so I don't get one of those grains in the flash hole . Then I don't tumble after I lube cases .... it works with one shot . Just for plinking ammo . I never mess with the primer pocket so if I avoid getting corn cob in the flash hole it's a plus


Since you are new you should buy a manual and go step by step , do everything proper per the manual . Once you are a successful reloader doing that then you can get sloppy .... you learn what to identify .
Sorry I thought you were an accomplished reloader wanting to make quick plinking ammo
 
First off.......

I predict that you probably won't be happy with your portable reloading bench. IMHO.....you should work on securing your press much better. Because, you're gonna be putting in a lot of "ummph" to get the brass to resize correctly. I predict that your set up will probably tip over. So then, you could just attach your press to a good strong piece of lumber and C clamp it to a real sturdy table. The C clamps will help with making the whole affair "portable."

BTW, I also use several LEE M1000 progressive presses. Though only for straight walled pistol ammo reloading.

Aloha, Mark
 
Following, thanks!

Hoping to start reloading rifle (.223/.308) once sorted out at the new house.

Presses are Hornaday Lock n load progressives.

Have:

Die sets
Hand decapper (works ok on military 7.62x51, no idea on military 5.56...and have a "bunch" of military brass)
Scales
Calipers
Wet tumbler / media
Liquid Lanolin / 99% isopropyl
Dillon super swage 600

Need (want) to get some case gauges.
 
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First off.......

I predict that you probably won't be happy with your portable reloading bench. IMHO.....you should work on securing your press much better. Because, you're gonna be putting in a lot of "ummph" to get the brass to resize correctly. I predict that your set up will probably tip over. So then, you could just attach your press to a good strong piece of lumber and C clamp it to a real sturdy table. The C clamps will help with making the whole affair "portable."

BTW, I also use several LEE M1000 progressive presses. Though only for straight walled pistol ammo reloading.

Aloha, Mark
I have loaded 500 9mm rounds and resized 200+ 223 cases using this portable reloading setup. I can bring it to my backyard to enjoy the weather or my garage when it's not so nice outside. I like it a lot but would modify it a little bit to make it more stable.
 
I have loaded 500 9mm rounds and resized 200+ 223 cases using this portable reloading setup. I can bring it to my backyard to enjoy the weather or my garage when it's not so nice outside. I like it a lot but would modify it a little bit to make it more stable.

Maybe a large plywood base, or simple 2x4 lengths against the force of whichever way you are levering?

Interesting setup though. Might have just the stool to sacrifice too. Thanks!
 
I have loaded 500 9mm rounds and resized 200+ 223 cases using this portable reloading setup. I can bring it to my backyard to enjoy the weather or my garage when it's not so nice outside. I like it a lot but would modify it a little bit to make it more stable.

If it works for you.....that's a good thing. Note: I did use the words, "predict and probably."

BTW, I too have used a portable table/stand set up for years.

https://www.opticsplanet.com/reviews/reviews-frankford-arsenal-reloading-stand-155025.html

And before that, I used a small book case that was heavily modified to suit my requirements. So, getting back to the current matter.....

My Frankford Arsenal stand works......good enough.......with my Lee M1000s (doing straight walled pistol cartridges). BUT, note that, I also have a place for my feet to help hold the stand down when reloading.

For resizing bottle necked cartridges, I've noticed that even with my feet holding down the base of the stand......it's less than optimal. Example: When I'm using my Rock Chucker and I'm resizing LC 7.62 Nato brass for my M1a. You know.....you need a certain amount of "overcam" to get the cases resized correctly. Those are times, that I wished that I had a bigger/sturdy bench.

And.....it's not only with 7.62 Nato brass. It carries on to when I'm doing .223 and .30-06 military brass. BTW, there is also flex to the Frankford Arsenal plastic table top.....which I don't care for.

LOL.....I've watched those YouTube Videos of some of those guys resizing rifle brass. I often wonder, how can it be so easy for them? A simple in and out of the brass through a resizing die. Rrrrright. No cam over at all or maybe they're only neck sizing? Ok, Ok, ok........if it works for them......"Whatever."

+++++++++++++++
SHORT STORY (about resizing)......
My ammo fit my M1a easily. But, when I tried the same ammo in my bolt action Rem 700....well, it didn't chamber. Humm.....ok, so I screwed down the re-sizing die down a bit more and I also made sure that I got a bit more cam over. The new ammo is just passing, in the gauge test. Remember, there is a high and a low cut, to test for re-sized brass to still be acceptable. Now, the ammo would work in both rifles.

Bottom line: chambers vary and a little bit could be all the difference. And.......cam over, while re-sizing. It counts.
++++++++++++++++


Anyway.....yes......I understand, about it being portable and able to be carried wherever you want. LOL.....I also have a story about my adventures in having a "bug out bag" which included a LEE hand press. BTW, nice cut out to your "chair/bench top" to nest your press and your used primer drop tube set up.

Bottom Line: "If it works for you.....that's a good thing."

Aloha, Mark
 
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My setup is just perfect for 9mm and 223. On the down stroke, I didn't have any problem. On the up stroke, I got so many stuck cases to tune my muscle memory. When the front legs lift off the ground. I know that I need to do something or I will get a stuck case.

I don't know if I messed up my sizing die or not but after about 150 cases, I got a stuck case. After that, I got stuck case so often. I now decap using universal decaping die. Then resize without decaping pin in place. When I lift the handle up with enough force, the front 2 legs of my stool also lifted up. I made a pin to assist with light taps. I do separate those cases for further examination.
 
SPEAKING OF RIFLE CARTRIDGES.

One of my major "stuck case" problems came when using Hornady One Shot. Some swear by it. Some swear at it. My friend will only use Imperial wax. I like Hornady lube, Lee lube and Dillion lube. If I'm desperate I'll use Hornady One Shot. Experiment and see what you like.

If I'm decapping military brass for the first time....
I don't use the neck expander/decapping pin that came with the die set. The Lee military decapper works for that purpose. Yup....it's slow. But it works.

For neck expanding....
You might want to also put a bit of mica or case lube inside of the neck of the brass. Then again, carbide neck expander buttons are available too.

Aloha, Mark
 
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I think I found the problem.
By observing the stuck cases, I thought it could've been the center rod on the breech lock press deflected a little enough for the shell holder to miss a part of the rim. To confirm my theory, I turned the shell holder the opposite direction and sure enough, it's working good. This to confirm that the sizing die is OK, just the center rod on the press deflected a little bit. I now have a way to work around and will figure out a way to fix the press later.
 

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