JavaScript is disabled
Our website requires JavaScript to function properly. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser settings before proceeding.
I don't worry about measuring every powder charge though. Maybe every fifty cases I'll check.

Other than that, pretty much everything stays the same as rounds I load under more scrutiny.
 
Yep ... Military hard primer. Whatever brand. 25.0 grains of W748. I have forgotten the case specifications. 5.56x45. A soft load but a well broken in AR15 will love them. Have not hand loaded in years. Another aspect of the fun hobby.

Edited extra. Isn't old age grand? Memory tricks. I now remember prepping/triming the cases to about 2.00 inches if needed. We used just a tad of taper crimp. Case life was about 3-5 re loads. M193 55 grain full metal jacket with c annular.

Primer pockets swagged and not reamed.

Linux Mint 17 American Engilsh speelll chzk today is not worth a hoot. Yikes! I wonder why. :)
 
Last Edited:
W-W 55 FMJBT over 25.5 grains of MilSurp IMR8208 that I have had in storage for decades. CCI small rifle and whatever sorted commercial cases I salvaged from the department range. Have both a mid-70s Rock Chucker and a fairly new Lee Classic cast press. Like the Lee better actually, due to its adjustability. I load one at a time as I am 1) old school and 2) not as infallible as high production loading machines.
 
And for plinking this is fine.
Yeah, I'm not worried if one sneaks in with an extra or less .5-1 grain of powder. I load in the middle of recommended data. So if it is less or more it really won't hurt anything. My powder charger never jumps much Once it is set, so I set it and forget it. I didn't use my electronic chargemaster for plinking rounds.
 
Yes, not sure what the best method is . I go for cost . Buy in bulk , I'm loading quality 55gr for steels @ $.19 a round . Don't care what kind of case , all mixed . Don't care the count on loadings I just load them till I notice a crack or it won't hold a primer.
I trim all the brass once then never touch it again.
I set the powder throw till it throws 5 consecutive drops then never measure again for 500 rounds ..... just go go go on bulk plinking ammo .
 
Yes, not sure what the best method is . I go for cost . Buy in bulk , I'm loading quality 55gr for steels @ $.19 a round . Don't care what kind of case , all mixed . Don't care the count on loadings I just load them till I notice a crack or it won't hold a primer.
I trim all the brass once then never touch it again.
I set the powder throw till it throws 5 consecutive drops then never measure again for 500 rounds ..... just go go go on bulk plinking ammo .

It is all good and your price is good, having the powder checked when refilling the hopper after about six or so consecutive drops, just to to get it back into the correct settling and compression is a good idea. I have found mostly those first half dozen drops can cause a fairly large variation. For me there is just a bit to much at times when refilling.
I don't have power baffles in all of my powder drops and those are the ones that make the largest change.

I would also at least check the brass for length at random after two or so firings, Depending on the trim length.
If we were shooting .223 cambering I would have already done a chamber cast. No sense having a plugged chamber neck, shoulder to bullet situation. More than likely any 5.56 x 45 chamber would never see the day. But there are people reading this as though it is good advice, there is a bit of time spent before someone knowledgeable enough makes some of these decisions.
 
Not saying it's THE BEST WAY. But, it has worked for me (I wrote this a long time ago, some product numbers and links may have changed)..........

Here is my .02 on the subject of "production loading" of rifle cartridges, for my "gas guns." Let's start with "once fired" LC military cases, in whatever number of cases you want for your, "lot."

1) Inspect and clean the cases. I use a liquid brass cleaner (Birchwood Casey # 33845 CCI). Follow the mixing instructions on the package. After the soak/cleaning, the cases are removed from the solution, rinsed and air dried. The solution is re-usable. IF, you want to use an oven for drying, use the lowest heat setting.

OR……..

Hot water with dish soap and some vinegar will also do the job. But, it won't be as shiny. "Lemi shine" added to water is said to add shine to your brass. That being said, brass doesn't have to glint in the sun to be clean enough to reload.

Why a liquid brass cleaner? Well, it eliminates the need to buy a tumbler (or vibratory machine). I don't have to buy media and I save on electricity. There is the added bonus of no noise and/or dust in my work space. And, if I were to tumble/clean de-primed brass, I would have to worry about stuck media in primer pockets and flash holes.

2) With once fired military brass, this next step only has to be done once. You could de-cap primers with the standard de-cap/re-sizer die. Though due to the primer crimp, there is a high incidence of parts breakage. IMHO, de-cap the once fired military brass using either, a "universal" de-capper die or with a skinny nail/punch and anvil (with a hole in it, large enough for the old primer to fall out of, but still support the case rim). Or, buy the LEE military primer de-capper set (#90102-.30 cal., #90103-.22 cal.). Simply, run the nail/punch down through the case neck. The nail/punch will enter the flash hole and rest against the old primer. Put the case on the anvil (old primer centered over the anvil's hole). Then, with a hammer hit the nail/punch head and knock out the old primer, letting the old primer fall through the hole in the anvil. Yes, the military crimp is sometimes that stubborn.

3) Again, since we're using once fired military brass, this next step has to be done only once. The primer crimp will need to be removed. The crimp gets either swaged or reamed/cut. My friend has a Dillon swage and I use a Lyman hand reamer/cutting tool. Both can do the job......one is cheaper. Lyman hand reamer (#7777785 Large, #7777784 Small). I do the crimp removal while watching TV. It's as simple as: pick up a case, insert the tool into the primer pocket and twist, remove case, next.....

*Commercial cases, usually don't have a primer crimp to bother with. So, steps 2 and 3 can be omitted. Likewise, for the next time you load these "already treated" military cases.

4) Next, is lubing the cases. I use a spray lube on the outside of the cases......not too much......and not too little. As you re-load more and more, you'll get better at judging the amount needed. You don't want dimples on the shoulders of your cases (too much lube) and you don't want a stuck case in your die (not enough lube). I simply lay a single layer of cases on a piece of cardboard and spray. Shake the cardboard a little and spray the cases again.

5) Also, I like to use a little bit of mica inside of the case neck. It lubes the inside of the neck and I don't have to hear the "squeak." For me, not every case gets the mica. You can feel it and hear it, when you're getting to the point of having to add more mica. I use a Forster original case graphiter (#011341). IF you have a carbide neck expander button you won't need the mica.

6) I use a single station press (RCBS Rock Chucker). You could use a progressive Dillon IF you wanted to. It's a personal choice. But, with whatever press you choose, consider shell plate/shell holder and/or press "flex." I use a regular FL size/de-capper die, NOT the small base dies. To begin, lube your cases. Then, FL size and de-cap, 1 or 2 cases for a test. Gauge the re-sized case(s), to confirm that the "correct re-size" has been achieved. I use a Forster Products case gauge (the Wilson or Dillon case gauges are also popular choices). Holding the gauge vertically (large hole up), insert a case into the case gauge (DO NOT place it on the table top). The headstamped end of the case, needs to be at or between the high and low cuts on the gauge, to pass. This checks for the "correct re-size." While the other end, is used to check if the case will need to be trimmed (a job for later on). IF, it's not the "correct re-size," your die setting will need adjustment. Lower the ram and simply screw the die in or out a little. Don't forget about the lock nut. Then, re-size another couple of test cases and check your work again. Repeat the test and adjustments, as needed. When you're satisfied that your test cases are properly re-sized, do the entire lot (remember to test some cases throughout the run).

7) Case trimming. Check first: Place the gauge (w/cartridge case in it) headstamp end down, on a flat surface. The case should not be stuck in the gauge, it needs to sit on the flat surface. For the correct length, the end of the neck should be, at or between, the two cuts on the gauge. IF you have a caliper.........measuring works too.

For ME, first time: New, once fired (purchased and given) and range pick up brass are always trimmed (with few exceptions) for consistency sake.

I'll trim the cases with my Gracey trimmer (it'll trim, chamfer, and de-burr in a single operation). Remember, we are doing this as a "lot." So, IF one case needs a trim......they all get a run through the trimmer.

More info on the Gracey Trimmer………

Match Prep, Home of the Gracey Power Carrtidge Case Trimmer

Or, choose the Giraud.........

giraud tool company, Inc.

NOTE: IF it's not done with your brand of trimmer..........don't forget to slightly chamfer and slightly de-burr the necks. It'll ease bullet seating. Use this style of tool.........

<broken link removed>

8) Clean off the case lube. Either with another soak in Birchwood Casey cleaner or a quick wipe off with a cloth dampened in solvent. You can also tumble (or use a vibratory machine) but, remember what I said about the media getting stuck in flash holes and pockets? So, make sure it's clear.

9) While you're holding the cases......inspect them for, "other problems." Splits or impending case separation. IF, I see it or suspect it......the whole lot may get dumped (or just a few). With my 7.62x51 NATO brass (shot through an M1A), I don't anneal, I'll usually get 3 re-loads out of a case. IMHO…..a 4th would be, "pushing it."

10) Some old primer residue may still be left in the primer pocket. It's optional to clean it. I use a LEE primer pocket cleaner (#90101). It flips over to do both large and small primer pockets. Insert the tool into the primer pocket and twist.

Also optional, is to de-burr and make the flash hole a uniform size. The tool is a simple device that is inserted through the case neck. An adjustable flange on the shaft prevents it from going any further into the case. A quick twist and the job is done.

More info on Preparing Cases For Long Range Accuracy

One of the Many Great Articles from the Archives of Precision Shooting Magazine...

11) My cases are then primed w/ a handheld LEE Auto Prime tool (#90230). It comes with both large and small primer rods. But, you'll have to purchase the correct shell holder(s) for your caliber of choice.

12) Then, it all gets loaded, as usual (powder is measured and dropped into the case, bullet gets placed and bullet gets seated).
______________________________________

For those who don't know about it.........IMHO…………"the secret" to re-loading a bottle neck cartridge for a gas gun is.......a case gauge. There are many different brands and ways to gauge your re-loads.

Examples……..

Case Gauges & Headspace Tools | Measuring Tools at Sinclair Inc

______________________________________

Remember, like most everything......YOUR MILEAGE WILL VARY. There are many other products, loads, and ways to skin a cat......this was only my advice. Which you got for FREE.
______________________________________

Aloha, Mark
 

Upcoming Events

Oregon Arms Collectors March Gun Show
Portland, OR
Tillamook Gun & Knife Show
Tillamook, OR
"The Original" Kalispell Gun Show
Kalispell, MT
Teen Rifle 1 Class
Springfield, OR
Kids Firearm Safety 2 Class
Springfield, OR

New Resource Reviews

New Classified Ads

Back Top