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Help with Dad's guns

DeanMk

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I inherited my father's guns, most of which are modern, but there are a few older ones that I grew up with, but know little about and need some love. None are particularly valuable, but they are all high quality. The sentimental value is priceless. He was a working man with working man's guns.

First is a Interarms Mark X 7mm mag topped with an older Redfield 4-12. These are built on Yugo Zastava actions? It has some spot rust on the bolt face which needs addressed pronto. What's the best way to do so?

View attachment 661278
View attachment 661279
View attachment 661280

Next is a Rem 700 bull barrel .223 topped with a Leupold fixed 12x. No idea what model. This rifle shows some rust around the barrel crown.

View attachment 661281
View attachment 661282

Also a Rem 1100 and a Colt M1991A1 because they are awesome. They seem to be in good shape, just need cleaning.

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View attachment 661284

Also, what is the best oil for the stocks?
Metal or wood, I use Outers Gun Oil.
Cleans off the rust, too....but it does take a little elbow grease.
Just a couple of drops on a little cleaning patch is all you need.
You mentioned you didn't know what model the Remington 700 is. It's a 700. From the looks of the stock, I'd say its a BDL.
...and yes, I'm pretty sure the Interarms 7mm is built on an old Zestava action. They still use the 98 action, so if it looks like a Mauser, I think you're assumption is spot on.
Outers on a cleaning patch will clean the rust off that bolt face, too.

Dean
 
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I inherited my father's guns, most of which are modern, but there are a few older ones that I grew up with, but know little about and need some love. None are particularly valuable, but they are all high quality. The sentimental value is priceless. He was a working man with working man's guns.

First is a Interarms Mark X 7mm mag topped with an older Redfield 4-12. These are built on Yugo Zastava actions? It has some spot rust on the bolt face which needs addressed pronto. What's the best way to do so?

View attachment 661278
View attachment 661279
View attachment 661280

Next is a Rem 700 bull barrel .223 topped with a Leupold fixed 12x. No idea what model. This rifle shows some rust around the barrel crown.

View attachment 661281
View attachment 661282

Also a Rem 1100 and a Colt M1991A1 because they are awesome. They seem to be in good shape, just need cleaning.

View attachment 661283

View attachment 661284

Also, what is the best oil for the stocks?
True oil is a gun stock oil and the results are amazing.
 

Spitpatch

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True oil is a gun stock oil and the results are amazing.
Tru Oil (Birchwood Casey) is a FINISH. Mixture of linseed oil and a lacquer or varnish. It is NOT an after-treatment, must be applied with all attention to dust-free environment, even distribution over the surface, etc.

It's intended use is application to bare wood (or that which has been "filled"), and multiple coats, each dressed before the next.

A true mess will result if not used properly. Decidedly NOT something you put on an already finished stock (unless treating a small area where finish has worn).
 
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All the oil finish products mentioned give fine results on "oil finished" stocks. Remington uses a proprietary plastic like finish I think they call "RKW". I doubt any oil will give you good results on that. Most any paste wax or even Lemon Pledge should clean and protect those stocks. The checkering might benefit from the oil though. HTH
 

DeanMk

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Orygunner,

Do you know about when Remington started using that clear coat on their stocks?
 

Siglvr

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I inherited my father's guns, most of which are modern, but there are a few older ones that I grew up with, but know little about and need some love. None are particularly valuable, but they are all high quality. The sentimental value is priceless. He was a working man with working man's guns.
Respect to you sir. Deep and sincere. Your father would no doubt be happy you feel his guns are a priceless memory of the man. I hope my son feels the same when I check out.

I watch Pawn Stars occasionally and the worst part of that show and I love some of the interesting history, but THE VERY WORST PART hands down, is when some guy brings in an heirloom gun and says something like: "It was my great grandfathers he used it in the Civil War (names who his great grandfather was and an engagement or 2), but now it just hangs over the mantle and I'd rather have the money". Then, Rick gets an expert in who oooo's and Ahhhh's over it while pointing out the historical dings that the father, grandfather and great grandfather all created on the piece, notes that the resale value at auction is about $2800.

Rick says thanks appraiser, turns to the guy and says: "I'll give you $900 bucks".

Guy responds: "Uhh, can you do a little better? I mean, he just said it was worth $2800" Points towards the door which is just now hitting the departing appraiser in the butt.

Rick looks at guy, squints.... says: "I can go $1100 but that's tops. I mean, I've got to iron out all those dings, oil it up and fix the flint etc ..(pause)...it's cash money" (Rick raises one eyebrow encouragingly).

Guy: Long pause: "Cash money? ...OK" Turns to camera and says something inane like "Hey, I'm in Vegas and the roulette table is calling".

AAAARRRRG!!!! STOP THE MADNESS
 
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Orygunner,

Do you know about when Remington started using that clear coat on their stocks?
I'd guess back into the mid 60's with the introduction of the M700. All the 700's I have owned have had it as well as the 541S .22, 870 Wingmasters, and 1100's. Can't say it is the only finish they've used. Classics, Mt. Rifles, Express might get something else but still doubt it is oil.

 
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Thanks for taking care of Dad's old guns. Old men worry about what will become of them. I want to guess that the Interarms is based on a commercial action. Is it somewhat sculpted ?
 

DeanMk

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I'd guess back into the mid 60's with the introduction of the M700. All the 700's I have owned have had it as well as the 541S .22, 870 Wingmasters, and 1100's. Can't say it is the only finish they've used. Classics, Mt. Rifles, Express might get something else but still doubt it is oil.

Ok, that explains a few things.
My dad has a 725 in .270 and a 12 gauge 11-48 and the Outers works well for those. Both guns were made in 1953.
However, his 20 gauge 1100 lightweight, which he bought new in 1978, always seemed to resist the oil.
Still works well on the action, but I stopped oiling the stocks on that gun years ago.
Thanks for helping out with that.

Dean
 
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slimmer13

slimmer13

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Thanks for taking care of Dad's old guns. Old men worry about what will become of them. I want to guess that the Interarms is based on a commercial action. Is it somewhat sculpted ?
I'm not sure what you mean. I'll take some closer pics tomorrow.
 
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Believe it or not, a German metal polish, "FLITZ" works great on blued steel, and all other metals, I have used it on several of my finer rifles, with great results. It did not hurt the bluing, but did remove rust, even what you can not see. What you will see is a white cotton cloth with brown everywhere there was blue FLITZ after your done, with an amazing deep blue finish on the firearm! I would "test-a spot" see if you want that result first. after the FLITZ treatment, I usually go over all metal with the next product. The next trusted product I have used is "WALLEY'S Gun care Cloth. This stuff takes time, like over and over and over, it does protect though. Rust removal can happen, but it's time and patients. You might try" PB- BLASTER" first on bad spots, it's 100X's better than WD-40, and it works, does not harm rubber or other non metal things, but I do suggest removing/guarding the wood stock from saturation, especially where screws or bolts go through the stock. PB Blaster with "OOOO" steel wool on stubborn spots. If the bluing starts to show lightening, Brownell's ortho-blue works great. Boiled linseed oil on oil-finished stocks. If the stocks are lacquered, or a finish you can not identify, leave well enough alone or be prepared to do a complete refinish job, starting with stripper and nylon brushes, scrapers etc., then your pick of stain and or top coats that will be touch-up able.Good Luck !
 

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