JavaScript is disabled
Our website requires JavaScript to function properly. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser settings before proceeding.
Messages
6,486
Reactions
20,844
I inherited my father's guns, most of which are modern, but there are a few older ones that I grew up with, but know little about and need some love. None are particularly valuable, but they are all high quality. The sentimental value is priceless. He was a working man with working man's guns.

First is a Interarms Mark X 7mm mag topped with an older Redfield 4-12. These are built on Yugo Zastava actions? It has some spot rust on the bolt face which needs addressed pronto. What's the best way to do so?

20200218_091536.jpg
20200218_091541.jpg
20200218_091610.jpg

Next is a Rem 700 bull barrel .223 topped with a Leupold fixed 12x. No idea what model. This rifle shows some rust around the barrel crown.

20200218_091657.jpg
20200218_091715.jpg

Also a Rem 1100 and a Colt M1991A1 because they are awesome. They seem to be in good shape, just need cleaning.

20200218_091803.jpg

20200218_091852.jpg

Also, what is the best oil for the stocks?
 
I use superfine steel wool and Kroil, a penetrating oil, for minor rust issues, Vinegar will work well for removing rust but will also remove bluing so stay away from it on blued surfaces unless you want to reblue. A gentle touch with the steel wool and Kroil will not harm existing blueing. (Original blueing is "carded" or rubbed with steel wool to smooth the oxidation out)
Several different cold blues are available to protect those areas now devoid of blue protection. follow their directions, particularly as to degreaseing. I would buy several different brands to try get as close to existing hot blue color as possible. Most tend to be shades of black but some get close to a blue, and all are influenced by the alloys in the steel as to color they will produce. Any sheen, (or lack of) desired, will be dependent on the the surface preparation, same as the original blueing was.

I use Casey gunstock wax on my (wood) stocks, it a reasonable protection on metals too. Impossible to mess it up. Follow the directions and you'll be happy.
 
I use boiled linseed oil on stocks and grips.

I had an Interarms rifle years ago and IIRC mine was manufactured in England. They seem to have been manufactured by a number of companies.
Perhaps the serial number could give you the info.
 
@Velzey could help with the rust issues if it's more than just a cleaning.
KJ beat me too it. Tim is our local gunsmith and he has more gun knowledge than probably every member here combined.

He is also very very skilled and I know he has helped many many here with restoration projects.
 
@Velzey could help with the rust issues if it's more than just a cleaning.
KJ beat me too it. Tim is our local gunsmith and he has more gun knowledge than probably every member here combined.

He is also very very skilled and I know he has helped many many here with restoration projects.

Thanks. He PMd me and advised me to immediately apply gun oil to the rust spots to neutralize the rust, then remove with a carding brush to hopefully preserve the bluing.

He also said to pull the stocks to look for hidden rust and clean thoroughly.

Looking to get these guns back into service.:s0155:
 
I had an Interarms mark x in 22-250 that I gave to my brother in law (I got it from my father in law, LOL). I sure wish I hadn't done that. The new TC 22-259 I replaced it with may have more options but can't touch the accuracy of that old rifle. I love the wood on it as well. Built on a Mauser 98 action if I recall correctly.
 
The fat-barreled .223 is a Remington M700V BDL (Varmint). Fixed 12 power is the cat's meow in a dog town. The man knew his stuff.
Since the bolt face should have no blue, you can get almost as aggressive as you want to remove blemishes.

For general exterior touch up on wood, Scott's Liquid Gold is the deal and it'll prevent corrosion on metal too. Spray on, wipe off.

For long term protection, get a big yellow can of Johnson's or MinWax Paste Wax. Good on metal AND wood and buffed with a wool sock all guns look new. On tough hunting trips (Alaska, etc.) I will put it on thick and NOT polish it off. Gun looks like hell but is absolutely protected. Back home, polish it off.
 
If these have been sitting around unused for a long time, might be a good idea to clean the rifle/pistol bores and shotgun barrel. The Rem. 700 picture of the bbl. crown looks like some of the rust is in the bore. Dry barrels can get rust spots in them.
 
He had a friend that he would go to MT every year to hunt prairie dogs with. He said he would start shooting at 50-100 yds, and would keep shooting until targets were out 4-500 yds. Then they would move up and repeat the process. All day;)

Thanks
 
If these have been sitting around unused for a long time, might be a good idea to clean the rifle/pistol bores and shotgun barrel. The Rem. 700 picture of the bbl. crown looks like some of the rust is in the bore. Dry barrels can get rust spots in them.

I did get that far. I thoroughly cleaned the Colt today and hopefully will get to the 700 tomorrow.
 
Thanks. It was his truck gun. Rode in the center console of his Dodge the last few years.

I tore in to it today and found some rust on it too. The old man was slipping the last few years. Cleaned up fine though.

View attachment 661413
View attachment 661414
i found a nice stainless one at my local shop for $500. only thing is, its stainless. lol. never been a big fan of stainless guns except for wheel guns!
 

Upcoming Events

Teen Rifle 1 Class
Springfield, OR
Kids Firearm Safety 2 Class
Springfield, OR

New Resource Reviews

New Classified Ads

Back Top