Gun safe air tight or vented ?

[EPS]

That's crazy, and I'm not even drinking beer!

No comment.hehe

 

[Flopsweat]

I wish you wouldn't show restraint, you've got my interest piqued!

LOL, hang in there, the term "vent hole" came up a little later. Someone will probably mine this thread for material for the "Members' Quotes Taken Out of Context" thread. Gold I tell ya Jerry!

 

[Certaindeaf]

Weld it up tight and if there's a fire it'll open up like a can a beans in a campfire. do it!

 

[Tony617]

Lol I might have to change though .
Because I just got a gun that actually has wood on it lol View attachment 491430

That is a nice looking gun, is it a cap and ball muzzleloader?

 

[EPS]

That is a nice looking gun, is it a cap and ball muzzleloader?

Yep

 

[Stomper]

Weld it up tight and if there's a fire it'll open up like a can a beans in a campfire. do it!

It'll blow smoke like Prince Albert in a can!!

 

[nammac]

That's what happens when you hang out with Andy

Wait, did you just say your guns got wood when you hung out with Andy?!?!

 

[Stomper]

Wait, did you just say your guns got wood when you hung out with Andy?!?!

Hanging out with @AndyinEverson will also cause more hair to grow on your chest, your spine will straighten, add LEAST 4" to your quadriceps, and make you start to roar like Godzilla.


But little children will still adore you and run towards you for safety.

 

[Andy54Hawken]

Hanging out with @AndyinEverson will also cause more hair to grow on your chest, your spine will straighten, add add LEAST 4" to your quadriceps, and make you start to roar like Godzilla.


But little children will still adore you and run towards you for safety.

Truer words , have never been spoken....

That and "turn about is fair play" ....As EPS did get me all but the lower for my AR....
Andy

 

[Stomper]

Smoke-wagon for a poodle-shooter.... equitable!

 

[M67]

From my personal experience.
Two Cannon safes bolted to a concrete slab. My safe always had fresh desiccant inside and never had any issues with moisture harming anything metal inside.

The Cannon safe bolted down directly beside mine, belonged to family members. They installed a goldenrod safe dehumidifier, but no desiccant. They also kept the safe wrapped in the closed cell foam sheet, that the safe was shipped in and used string to hold the foam sheet tightly in place. Plus they put the original box back over the whole works. They did not access the safe very often, once or twice a year. Upon opening that fairly air tight safe one day, they discovered rust on a bunch of their treasures, even though they had used Rem Oil to wipe down everything inside.
I never could talk them out of wrapping the safe with the foam and putting the box back over the top. They did learn a valuable lesson about the moisture being trapped inside. I spent two days cleaning up their treasures and I talked them into getting desiccant to put inside. Plus no more Rem Oil to wipe everything down after cleaning, I talked them into using a very light coat of TW25B gun grease instead. Due to the fact that the safe was not accessed very often.
After that there were no more moisture issues for them and the problem was solved.

 

[crstrode]

Goldenrod type dehumidifiers are basically just a low-intensity heating element that raises the internal safe temperature (and eventually the contents) above the dew point, thus preventing condensation to form inside, BUT the moisture has to be able to go somewhere, so a "leaky" safe with door fire-gaskets that expand/swell in high heat would be optimal.

That's not how safe heaters protect the contents. The idea is not to drive out the moisture, but (as you correctly stated) to maintain the temperature above the condensation point. The moisture doesn't need to "go anywhere".

 

[SUPER X]

I did the same thing with my Fort Knox when I bought it, I let it air out with a heater blowing in it for 24 hours (shut heater off overnight)

I put a electric dehumidifier inside and shut the door most the way. But when filling safe you have to move fast

 

[Heywood]

This is a late response but most safes that have drywall and other composit fill as a fireproofing do so by actually releasing the moisture locked in the drywall along with the pressure built up from the expanding seals to keep the internal temp of the safe at a lower temp.
You don't want to remove the moisture baked into said material. Though I don't know that running a heater in them would do such a thing anyway as the temp shouldn't get high enough for that to occur.

 

[Flopsweat]

This is a late response but most safes that have drywall and other composit fill as a fireproofing do so by actually releasing the moisture locked in the drywall along with the pressure built up from the expanding seals to keep the internal temp of the safe at a lower temp.
You don't want to remove the moisture baked into said material. Though I don't know that running a heater in them would do such a thing anyway as the temp shouldn't get high enough for that to occur.

No worries. A Goldenrod isn't going to dry out the gypsum.

 

[Heywood]

I know, it was more towards the people that try to dry out their safe with a space heater when they first bring it home.

No worries. A Goldenrod isn't going to dry out the gypsum.

 

[Helocat]

I put a 1/4 rubber horse mat between the concrete floor and safe as a vapor barrier since concrete wicks moisture. Bolted it down, drilling right through the pad. Goldenrods + a muffin fan in the back lower corner on a timmer to move the air around for 15min once a day.

I have one safe for my common go to that is opened 3-4x per week, then the other for the long term that rarely gets open.

 

[jbett98]

Old vintage safes relied on the wet cement type filler that was poured inside the cast iron shell to protect against fire damage.
As the safe heated up in a fire, the moisture trapped in the cement would be released into the insides of the safe to protect the contents.
Not a problem when new, but over time the moisture would rust out the safe and that cool looking vintage safe would have no protection left since it's dry as a bone internally.
Last summer I bought a huge 3,500 lb. vintage Laboratory Safety-Safe which is protected by 5" of pure asbestos around the cast iron shell for only $100.00. The owners couldn't figure out how to open the safe, even though they had the correct combination.
It's absolutely air tight and only really good for valuable documents and jewelry unless you have a two stage desiccant program for firearms.

 

[Decoy]

Well I store my electronics (NVG'S, IR Illuminator, Thermal Scope, Range Finding Bino's and such) in my safe also so I prefer to use a couple of containers of desiccant and battery operated LED motion lights. I dont want to bring power into the safe since it no longer can act as a faraday cage. Also many of my scopes have illumination too.

Just a though for setting up your safes.....................

 

[Decoy]

Another option for fireproofing and protecting your safe from attack is building a frame around it and attaching the frame to the wall and the floor. I use layers of cement board on the id and od of the frame. You just need to build the walls in sections (leaving the outer cement boards off at first). Get it in place with steel framing and attach the outer boards once it is complete. You can also leave a couple of holes in the outer layer and fill it with foam or other insulation to boost the fire rating. I had one guy tell me at the SHOT Show that he did a similar build but used sand to fill the walls and top.

Build the front extended out a few inches and you can also build a covering that can screw into place covering the door in case of a pending fire in your area.

Having this type of a buffer will extend the fire rating of any safe,