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My old sentry safe with a digital keypad came with a long skinny skeleton looking key, did yours? Also any chance of getting a saw saw blade under it to cut your mounting bolts?
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Before you cut the door you can try punching back a bolt--If you can drill a hole in the side or top of the safe- Many times bashing one of the bolts will force the others to also retract
This is a really good idea & worth a shot, least fire risk (BOOM!) & pretty quick.
I'd drill to get to push one of the bottom bolts, as that is which caused my door to hang up.
My fav is one of the side bolts, the upper one is easier on my knees
What about knocking the thing off the concrete, might even rip the bottom out, then
straighten out whats left with a Harbor Freight body hammer set & reweld/remount?
Bottom bolt is 14" from bottom of safe to center of bolt (on my safe), middle is just shy of 30" bottom of safe to center.
I know you have tried pressing in on the door, but that would be hard to get much pressure unless you can get a strap around the back. If so get a ratchet strap, sling the webbing around the safe, hold a stack short pieces of 2x4s on the door and strap them against the face. When you tighten the strap, the angle of the straps going over the 2x4 will create inward pressure on the door.
The higher the stack the more inward pressure.
Hope this helps.
I know you have tried pressing in on the door, but that would be hard to get much pressure unless you can get a strap around the back. If so get a ratchet strap, sling the webbing around the safe, hold a stack short pieces of 2x4s on the door and strap them against the face. When you tighten the strap, the angle of the straps going over the 2x4 will create inward pressure on the door.
The higher the stack the more inward pressure.
Hope this helps.