Getting into reloading, where should I start?

[Richo877]

I should add that you can adjust your seating and/or crimping dies by just screwing them down snugly on top of the pattern cartridge you made. It can expedite the die set up quite a lot.

Is this method consistent if the cases are different trim lengths? All the .223 cases I've trimmed so far are trimmed to 1.755" max. Some were less and didn't need trimming. If the case length varies, do I need to reset the dies? I haven't gotten that far yet.

 

[ageingstudent]

Is this method consistent if the cases are different trim lengths? All the .223 cases I've trimmed so far are trimmed to 1.755" max. Some were less and didn't need trimming. If the case length varies, do I need to reset the dies? I haven't gotten that far yet.

It is generally. If your cases are in spec for your chamber, the difference between them shouldn't make a difference.

If you are making general shooting or hunting ammo, it should be fine. If you want to start making competition grade stuff, you need talk to somebody like @DizzyJ . I've always just made ammo for fun shooting and hunting. I just want it to work and work really well. I'm not trying to knock out the eye of a gnat at 300+ yd.

 

[Local Loader]

Is this method consistent if the cases are different trim lengths? All the .223 cases I've trimmed so far are trimmed to 1.755" max. Some were less and didn't need trimming. If the case length varies, do I need to reset the dies? I haven't gotten that far yet.

If worried about case lenght crimped I would get a factory crimp die, than it's a non issue.

 

[Local Loader]

Have done it all those ways. Still a PITA to me. Graphite is messy and doesn't seem like it works all that well. The RCBS liquid is just kind of messy and gets on the fingers and brass and doesn't wipe off, so I find myself tumbling again. The one I haven't tried is using the "OneShot", stacking the brass upright, and spraying in the necks. "Case Lube" is the one un-fun part of the process is my conclusion! Once this bottle of RCBS stuff is gone, I might go with the Hornady stuff. I get it on my fingers eather way!

The nice part about the OneShot spray lube is after a few min it drys and the lube remains so that it's a dry lube. This creates less of a chance of creating a dimple in the case from over lubing.

 

[Mikej]

The nice part about the OneShot spray lube is after a few min it drys and the lube remains so that it's a dry lube. This creates less of a chance of creating a dimple in the case from over lubing.

i think only twice, I've had the slightest dimple on a shoulder. Not enough to stop from loading it.

I just have to bite the bullet(pun) one day and put 50 .223 cases in a gallon zip loc, spray the one Shot in there and shake it around and try it? I know, dump it out on a cloth and let it dry completely. Is that the recommended way? The stuff seems pretty spendy for a 7oz can though? I've lubed hundred of cases with the RCBS goop. And still have half the bottle.

 

[Local Loader]

i think only twice, I've had the slightest dimple on a shoulder. Not enough to stop from loading it.

I just have to bite the bullet(pun) one day and put 50 .223 cases in a gallon zip loc, spray the one Shot in there and shake it around and try it? I know, dump it out on a cloth and let it dry completely. Is that the recommended way? The stuff seems pretty spendy for a 7oz can though? I've lubed hundred of cases with the RCBS goop. And still have half the bottle.

I stand mine in a loading block and than spray them, only takes 1 quick pass front and back to give them enough lube. If I don't feel like doing the second spray, I'll just spin the necks/shoulder between my fingers before it dries or before I putting it in the press after it dries.

 

[Mikej]

I stand mine in a loading block and than spray them, only takes 1 quick pass front and back to give them enough lube. If I don't feel like doing the second spray, I'll just spin the necks/shoulder between my fingers before it dries or before I putting it in the press after it dries.

It's the inside of the neck that concerns me.

 

[Local Loader]

It's the inside of the neck that concerns me.

It does get the inside neck as well cause you spray at an angle and since it's prime/powder safe you don't have to wipe it out.

 

[Richo877]

Just wanted to check, I'm sure there's quick videos, but anyone familiar with .223 headspace when using the lock n load comparator, after zeroing caliper, the reading to the datum line should be 1.4666 +/- .007?

 

[ma96782]

It's the inside of the neck that concerns me.

Instead of lubing the insides of a neck. How about a neck expander ball made of carbide.

Yeah.....I can remember when they were available. Was it from Pacific or maybe someone else?

Aloha, Mark

 

[ma96782]

As for the lube pad. I've gone even cheaper.

I start with a clean wash rag. Arrange the empty/cleaned cases on the rag. Then, spritz some of my home made lube. Don't over do it. Then, I roll the cases, like I would have done on a commercial lube pad and I'm done with the lubing job. The rag will get a little bit dirty over time. But, it will retain some of the lube. So, I don't bother to change the rag, until it's filthy/disgusting or dried out. LOL.

Aloha, Mark

 

[ma96782]

Home Made Case Lube (For Sizing Cases). Most guys say to use 91-92% (or higher) alcohol and a liquid lanolin. BUT, I had a really difficult time finding what I needed.

So....I changed and followed this guy's recipe for lube.

View: https://youtu.be/LOf5m5AdftM?si=HZFSQ5hoejYLroX7

I was easily able to find all of the ingredients (and spray bottle) at Wal Mart.

While using it, I don't usually see much separation of the ingredients. But Yes, I do shake/agitate the contents of the container, before each spritzing.

Aloha, Mark

PS......to get the lube off of the cases, I'll usually run/roll the cases over a rag spritzed with a solvent or just run them through the wet tumbler again.

 

[Omni]

Just wanted to check, I'm sure there's quick videos, but anyone familiar with .223 headspace when using the lock n load comparator, after zeroing caliper, the reading to the datum line should be 1.4666 +/- .007?

A few notes.

• The comparator tool is only useful for comparative measurements not absolute, my tool may not measure the same as yours.
• Make sure when you measure fired cases that they are de-primed. Fire primers are almost always slightly proud giving you a larger and inconsistent reading.
• You want to measure a case fired in your chamber to know if you're bumping the shoulder back enough after resizing. Try shooting for 3-4 thousandths for an auto-loader.
• My .223 wylde chamber seems to fire form to ~1.458" but I've measured some range brass over 1.462".
• Not all chambers are the same, so if your ammo could be used in other guns size it small enough to fit in the tightest chamber.

 

[Richo877]

A few notes.

• The comparator tool is only useful for comparative measurements not absolute, my tool may not measure the same as yours.
• Make sure when you measure fired cases that they are de-primed. Fire primers are almost always slightly proud giving you a larger and inconsistent reading.
• You want to measure a case fired in your chamber to know if you're bumping the shoulder back enough after resizing. Try shooting for 3-4 thousandths for an auto-loader.
• My .223 wylde chamber seems to fire form to ~1.458" but I've measured some range brass over 1.462".
• Not all chambers are the same, so if your ammo could be used in other guns size it small enough to fit in the tightest chamber.

I'm measuring for .223 rem, the data I was looking at said 1.4666 (.007). Almost everything I measured was 1.463, but everything was within .004, so definitely within tolerance.

 

[Local Loader]

I'm measuring for .223 rem, the data I was looking at said 1.4666 (.007). Almost everything I measured was 1.463, but everything was within .004, so definitely within tolerance.

Get a case gauge if you don't have one yet, solves a lot of the sizing issues and questions. If it doesn't fit right in the gauge than you need to redo it.

 

[Richo877]

Get a case gauge if you don't have one yet, solves a lot of the sizing issues and questions. If it doesn't fit right in the gauge than you need to redo it.

Do the case gauges give an accurate indication of headspace?

 

[ma96782]

Mind you that there are Case Gauges to check if you've correctly resized your used brass. And then, there are Case Gauges to check that your finished reloads are to spec.

I've mostly used the resizing case gauges for the longest time. Place your resized brass into the gauge. There is a measurement between which (high and a low cut)......your resized cases would be GTG. IMHO, it's simple and they work. However......I once ran into an issue.

My son's new bolt action rifle in .308W would not chamber the ammo that I had used numerous times with my M1a. Yeah......even though the ammo was made to the resizing gauge's spec (within the high and low cut). So anyway, I had to tighten the die down a tiny bit more. Then, everything was good in the world again. That tiny bit of a twist.....made all the difference. From then on, the ammo worked in both rifles.

Aloha, Mark

 

[Benchrest]

If you wind up using some of the more affordable available primers like Ginex or Servicio & Aventuras, you might regret not having the Rockchucker priming capability. Those primers seem to require very firm seating to be reliable and the compound leverage of the press provides it without wearing out your hands.

A bit of truth here; I've loaded S&B & Ginex (I use an old school Lee turret for small batches) and proper seating was an issue (not because of dimensions but rather cup hardness. my tests ). If your press isn't adequate then a simple Lee hand primer (or, likely, any other brand) will solve this issue.

 

[Benchrest]

Do the case gauges give an accurate indication of headspace?

Possibly, but only if you can measure case head protrusion above the mouth of the gauge.

I'd think of case gauges as "does the cartridge meet SAMI specs".

Plunk everything (again, for straight / tapered), and learn what jump / touching / jamming for bottle-neck / rifle cartridges means.

 

[Local Loader]

Do the case gauges give an accurate indication of headspace?

It's basicly a gauge that tells you whether or not the case is resized correctly. Some gauges measures head space but typically as long as the shoulder is correct and the case is the correct length, your good to go.
I use one and it works really well, there are ones you can use for after you load but I just use my mags and barrel, if it doesn't fit those, it fails. I load to my 5.56 and 7.62x51 to SAMMI spec and use a factory crimp die so I don't have to worry if the neck is a little shorter or if the bullet will come loose.