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Universal huh? Pretty close to Unique. In that Marlin, is it as filthy as Unique? Last week I loaded up 200 gr coated and some dirty molly coated 250gr with HS-6 to shoot in Wifey's Rossi 92. Been to much of a wuss to get out in the cold to try them though. :(

I think Universal is probably cleaner than Unique for this application, but I haven't loaded any Unique for a while for the 45 Colt. Went to Universal initially after someone told me it was cleaner than Unique, and it worked pretty good for what I was after (mid-range plinking load) so I haven't gone back to trying other powders.

Think I tried unique, Titegroup, and AA#7 or 9 when I first started loading for this caliber. Have stuck with Universal after trying it; another member here gave me a pound of it years ago when I was buying some other reloading stuff from him.
 
I think Universal is probably cleaner than Unique for this application, but I haven't loaded any Unique for a while for the 45 Colt. Went to Universal initially after someone told me it was cleaner than Unique, and it worked pretty good for what I was after (mid-range plinking load) so I haven't gone back to trying other powders.

Think I tried unique, Titegroup, and AA#7 or 9 when I first started loading for this caliber. Have stuck with Universal after trying it; another member here gave me a pound of it years ago when I was buying some other reloading stuff from him.
Like I could find a pound of Universal to try! LOL. I feel like I'd shy away from something as fast a Titegroup on a long gun. Slower would be better, in my mind. It seems like the cowboy gun shooters all like Unique or Trail Boss for that .45 Colt.
 
I think Universal is probably cleaner than Unique for this application, but I haven't loaded any Unique for a while for the 45 Colt. Went to Universal initially after someone told me it was cleaner than Unique, and it worked pretty good for what I was after (mid-range plinking load) so I haven't gone back to trying other powders.

Think I tried unique, Titegroup, and AA#7 or 9 when I first started loading for this caliber. Have stuck with Universal after trying it; another member here gave me a pound of it years ago when I was buying some other reloading stuff from him.
You might find this an interesting read. It was given to me by the guy at the big OAC show we purchased that Rossi 92 for the wife from. It clears up some misconceptions I had. I wasn't about to BUY ammo for it at the prices they want. So I was going to grab components and load from the beginning.

 
You might find this an interesting read. It was given to me by the guy at the big OAC show we purchased that Rossi 92 for the wife from. It clears up some misconceptions I had. I wasn't about to BUY ammo for it at the prices they want. So I was going to grab components and load from the beginning.

Thanks for sharing the article. I don't think that I ever bought a box of 45 Colt ammo from a store...reloading from the start for me also, since my Dad already had the stuff to reload for this caliber. I have since picked up a few boxes of factory ammo from people for a good price (a bit higher than just buying brass.)

I can't bring myself to pay what retailers want for loaded ammo for the 45 Colt, and a few others I have (45-70, 22 Hornet, 300 BLK). It's amazing how economically you can reload some of these vs. what loaded ammo costs from a retailer. And then there are some older, less common calibers that you can't even find during times where shelves are fairly well stocked - again, reloading is the key on those also.
 
You might try Ramshot true blue. I've not used it in a rifle but it is very forgiving and clean in a revolver.
Thanks. That looked like a good one to try. Also, seems like Ramshot powders have been more available this year than many other manufacturers (although supply seems to be opening up considerably the last 2-3 months).
 
Thanks. That looked like a good one to try. Also, seems like Ramshot powders have been more available this year than many other manufacturers (although supply seems to be opening up considerably the last 2-3 months).
I learned the common sense lesson from a guy at the Johnson Creek Gun Club, when I first started loading, that a slower powder in a longer barrel is good common sense. That also meant if your loading for some carry gun with a three inch barrel, or less, a fast powder is the way to go. Need to get that bullet up to velocity in a short 3 inches. I always have a burn rate chart on or near the loading table.
 
I was looking through my loading book last night and found a .357 load that was deemed favorable when I first started loadin for wheel guns.
I'm set up for it right now so going to get a passel made up this weekend and into next week seeing as I'm slow and more methodical these days.

I have a bag of couple hundred verified once fired cases, CCI550 primers, Remington 158g HP's and 5.8g Tightgroup with a medium crimp.

50 all boxed up. Did I mention that I am slow? :s0140:

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I learned the common sense lesson from a guy at the Johnson Creek Gun Club, when I first started loading, that a slower powder in a longer barrel is good common sense. That also meant if your loading for some carry gun with a three inch barrel, or less, a fast powder is the way to go. Need to get that bullet up to velocity in a short 3 inches. I always have a burn rate chart on or near the loading table.
Well yes and no, you still need to get the pressure to get the velocity. Along that vein, you might try something like 4227 or Longshot. The formula I follow to start developing a load is I figure out what bullet I want to use then look for the powder that gives me the best velocity at the lowest pressure with the fullest case not to be a compressed load. One other powder that might work for you is Accurate arms 5744.
 
Well yes and no, you still need to get the pressure to get the velocity. Along that vein, you might try something like 4227 or Longshot. The formula I follow to start developing a load is I figure out what bullet I want to use then look for the powder that gives me the best velocity at the lowest pressure with the fullest case not to be a compressed load. One other powder that might work for you is Accurate arms 5744.
Interesting. I see I have data for both of those. But they are both for jacketed rounds. I'm not looking to get power out of this. I'll most likely be running coated 200 grain. It's Wifey's gun and she like "Soft" shooting.
 
Reloaded 500 7.62x39 Russian. Gorgeous shiny steel cases, .310 Midway soft points, 123 gr. Case prep was wet SS media/soap for an hour and a half, rinse, dry. Spray with 2 coats of semi-gloss lacquer and BINGO, bright cases that look as good as they shoot! Hand primed with PMC Berdan primers, light Lee FCD crimp and dump them into a .30 Cal. can. These will be used in SKS's and AK 47's. My AR 15 platform 762 gets only brass cased reloads. Any and all will hit clay pidgins at 75 yards, open sight, red/green dot or scoped.

It's a disease and I KNOW you all have it!
 
Reloaded 500 7.62x39 Russian. Gorgeous shiny steel cases, .310 Midway soft points, 123 gr. Case prep was wet SS media/soap for an hour and a half, rinse, dry. Spray with 2 coats of semi-gloss lacquer and BINGO, bright cases that look as good as they shoot! Hand primed with PMC Berdan primers, light Lee FCD crimp and dump them into a .30 Cal. can. These will be used in SKS's and AK 47's. My AR 15 platform 762 gets only brass cased reloads. Any and all will hit clay pidgins at 75 yards, open sight, red/green dot or scoped.

It's a disease and I KNOW you all have it!
Do you regularly reload steel cases? I've heard about doing that but they don't last as long as brass and a little tougher on dies. I've never tried it though, just internet talk.
 
I can get maybe three loads from steel, if I even pick it off the ground. Usually it's forty feet in the brush! PRO: No trimming, really don't need crimp. CON: cracked necks are the norm after two or three reloads, can and are more difficult to de-cap, primers are tough to get. The brass Berdan primed cases are of great quality as a rule. Bottom line, if steel case 7.62x39 gets back to $200.00 per case, I won't reload this caliber except for fun. Bullets alone are $.20.
 
I can get maybe three loads from steel, if I even pick it off the ground. Usually it's forty feet in the brush! PRO: No trimming, really don't need crimp. CON: cracked necks are the norm after two or three reloads, can and are more difficult to de-cap, primers are tough to get. The brass Berdan primed cases are of great quality as a rule. Bottom line, if steel case 7.62x39 gets back to $200.00 per case, I won't reload this caliber except for fun. Bullets alone are $.20.
Excellent info, thank you
 
I had a pile of assorted 45 acp bullets I decided to turn into ammo. Berrys 185gr FP's, 200gr FP's and 200gr RN. Also a lone box of 185gr XTP's. After that it's back to production with 1000 158gr +P 38 Special and then I'lll run out all of the 165gr Extreme 40 S&W bullets I've got.
 
Reloaded 500 7.62x39 Russian. Gorgeous shiny steel cases, .310 Midway soft points, 123 gr. Case prep was wet SS media/soap for an hour and a half, rinse, dry. Spray with 2 coats of semi-gloss lacquer and BINGO, bright cases that look as good as they shoot! Hand primed with PMC Berdan primers, light Lee FCD crimp and dump them into a .30 Cal. can. These will be used in SKS's and AK 47's. My AR 15 platform 762 gets only brass cased reloads. Any and all will hit clay pidgins at 75 yards, open sight, red/green dot or scoped.

It's a disease and I KNOW you all have it!
Nice to know it can be done, maybe I will start saving some steel cased 7.62x39.
Just out of curiosity, why no steel cased ammo out of the AR?
 
Looks like the bullets, brass and powder I ordered for next weeks ammo is weather stuck so I won't be getting any of it until next week sometime. I guess that means I'll get to work on some of my personal projects like my .223 and 300 Win Mag.
 
Sorry Osprey, I've used the steel case 762 in the AR platform for testing. Just a wear and tear deal, the brass is a good bit softer.
 

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