RIA 1911 HIgh capacity 9mm issue

[Esam85]

I have a double stack 1911 chambered in 9mm and I am fairly ignorant in the function of them. I am hoping some of you with more knowledge can guide me.

The gun starts out shooting just fine but after about 6 magazines and warming up the hammer fails to fall completely. It stops close to the decocked position of a DA/SA.

My first thought was I was letting up on the back strap safety so I taped it which did not solve the issue.

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance

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[Grumpa]

I have a double stack 1911 chambered in 9mm and I am fairly ignorant in the function of them. I am hoping some of you with more knowledge can guide me.

The gun starts out shooting just fine but after about 6 magazines and warming up the hammer fails to fall completely. It stops close to the decocked position of a DA/SA.

My first thought was I was letting up on the back strap safety so I taped it which did not solve the issue.

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance

Sounds like a fitment issue. Send it back and have it fixed. It's one of the few drawbacks to an "economy" 1911, spotty quality.

 

[Certaindeaf]

Take it apart and clean it.

 

[terdog]

What is the history? Are you the original owner? Did you field strip and clean initially? What do you use for cleaner / lubricant? What mag are you using?
Looking for any changes.

 

[Esam85]

What is the history? Are you the original owner? Did you field strip and clean initially? What do you use for cleaner / lubricant? What mag are you using?
Looking for any changes.

I bought it brand new I use the factory mag and some Remington R1 but the mag doesn't seem to matter. I field strip and clean after each range trip. It started happening at about 1k rounds fired. Lube is slip 2000 ewl

 

[techiej]

Before your first use did you strip it down per RIA's instructions for a thorough cleaning? They really soak them in shipping oil and you need to follow their instructions (usually a slide strip and removing the grips and using mineral spirits to thoroughly clean). I think that they even have a youtube on it.

 

[terdog]

Well, I got nuthin for ya.I'd ay that you need to call RIA and have her sent back to The Mother Ship for some TLC.You could have a local smith take a peek, but that may void your warranty.
I know how much hind teat it sucks to be without, but you should have backup for the short term.
If not, take this opportunity to get 1.

 

[Esam85]

Well, I got nuthin for ya.I'd ay that you need to call RIA and have her sent back to The Mother Ship for some TLC.You could have a local smith take a peek, but that may void your warranty.
I know how much hind teat it sucks to be without, but you should have backup for the short term.
If not, take this opportunity to get 1.

I sent a message out to Hayes custom guns in Texas. I think I am going to let them work it over. Check them out they look like they do good work. In the mean time I ordered a STI Staccato P duo last night.

 

[terdog]

Dang.
From a RIA to a STI...

 

[Esam85]

Dang.
From a RIA to a STI...

I bought the RIA to do this to

I just got a nice Xmas bonus though and have wanted an sti for a while now

 

[terdog]

Please don't take this the wrong way... isn't that putting alot of lipstick on a pig? I don't know much about race guns, but for the money wouldn't you be better off buying something else?
Again, please don't take my comment as being rude or any such.

 

[Esam85]

Please don't take this the wrong way... isn't that putting alot of lipstick on a pig? I don't know much about race guns, but for the money wouldn't you be better off buying something else?
Again, please don't take my comment as being rude or any such.

Well it depends on budgets I guess. I could go and have a complete custom race gun built on a sti chassis and start at 4K and quickly go up from there. This option gets all new components with a not as nice Frame for the 2k range. Other than the fact of the issue I am sure can be fixed this RIA already shoots better than I do.

 

[BillM]

Does it have an overtravel screw on the trigger? If it does back it off a turn or two and see if
the problem goes away. Another possibility is not enough pressure on the left leg of the sear spring,
but it should malfunction erratically warm or cold if that's the problem.

Try this----grip gun, hold hammer cocked with other hand. Pull trigger. Let hammer down slowly with trigger held back.
Feel a little "bump" about halfway down? Sear nose bumping halfcock cut on the
hammer. Back off overtravel screw on trigger. Repeat above. No bump?

 

[Esam85]

Thank you @BillM i think I have it fixed for now I just got back from the range. I detail stripped the frame to nothing and put it back together. I wish I knew what fixed it but I learned that 1911's are one very particular beast.

 

[bbbass]

I bought the RIA to do this to
View attachment 636271
I just got a nice Xmas bonus though and have wanted an sti for a while now

Note the extended mag release that extends to the rear... I had one of those on my Para P14 for use in USPSA limited and my support hand would trip it quite a bit... Wound up going to an oversize round button.

Thank you @BillM i think I have it fixed for now I just got back from the range. I detail stripped the frame to nothing and put it back together. I wish I knew what fixed it but I learned that 1911's are one very particular beast.

If relatively new to 1911/2011 shooting, you might want to know that 1911s were designed to run very wet with lube. I learned the hard way when I first started competing and the gun would start hiccuping in the middle of a match... a few of the more experienced guys helped me out. Always lube up liberally prior to shooting and, in addition to the rails and internals such as the barrel bushing, spring, etc, include some in the hammer pivot point areas.

Then again, I found this FWIW:

Feb 16, 2015 #21

The Allen head screw in the trigger is a trigger over-travel adjustment screw.
This screw is used to adjust how far the trigger travels AFTER the hammer is released.

Be VERY careful with this. Usually these are set correctly at the factory. If you attempt to adjust it farther in you can easily cause the gun to fail to fire at all. With the trigger stop set too far in, the hammer won't release smoothly, or may not release at all.

Many people who use 1911's as an actual defense gun will either back the screw out more and use more Loctite to be SURE it won't move, or they simply remove the screw entirely to prevent any chance of the gun being deactivated by a screw that moves.
The trigger over-travel adjustment screw really belongs on a true Target Match gun where a failure won't get you killed.

One writer said his came from the factory completely loose.


Not sure about Slip, I think I remember some negative comments, but I started using Red's after Breakfree stopped making their "Lightning" lube in favor of CLP. BTW, I don't see a benefit to using CLP for match shooting except for cleaning and preserving.