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I'd strongly recommend using a non-toxic option. Even if you only plan on using it for flowers right now, you never know what you might plant in the future. Tar or other sealants have some real nasty stuff in them.
 
Burn the wood, then coat with boiled linseed oil. Neighbor here has had his above-ground fir last for 10 years.

Best option, use red cedar as it has a high oil content, then burn in the Japanese shu shugi ban method (YouTube it) then coat with boiled linseed oil.

Tar paper will leach and so will many other man-made products, if your planting flowers, who cares but if your planting edibles then stay away from products that leach.

Reminder, any natural product touching dirt will eventually become dirt...no getting around it.
 
Burn the wood, then coat with boiled linseed oil. Neighbor here has had his above ground fir last for 10 years.

Best option, use red cedar as it has a high oil content, then burn in the japanese shu shugi ban method (You Tube it) then coat with boiled linseed oil.

Tar paper will leach and so will many other man made products, if your planting flowers, who cares but if your edibles then stay away from products that leach.

Rememiner, any natural product touching dirt will eventually become dirt...no getting around it.
This is probably the best idea right here. Thanks!
 
It would be cool to char burn them.

Not sure if it would help with the soil eating away at the wood. It's a very unique and beautiful way to waterproof wood.

 
Good luck with the 20 years but I had success many years ago painting the insides of some with Black Jack. (roofing tar) If it is still available it came in a 5 gallon can and not too expensive at the time. Helps to get it really warm first, (rather a project in itself) don't bother if cold. Ya, a messy operation! Do it well away from anything you don't want Black Jack on, wear gloves, and don't wear anything you aren't willing to throw away.
 
For the life of me, I cannot understand why anybody would put a petrochemical substance into a root zone for vegetable or any plants. You do not find that in nature where plants and food crops grow, so why would you do it in a containerized environment ? Tar or other products really mess with the naturally ocurring bacterias in the soil, and really make hte soil web try to deal with the tar products instead of the bacterias being utilized for soil web health.

I like the boxes he built, I am getting ready to build some as well. Probably not quite that top shelf, I live in dry Central Oregon, and I can knock out a raised bed in a an hour. Probably just fir, and maybe put some plastic on the inside. If they last me 10 years that would be great.

Most untreated wood products would do fine just as they are, making sure you have a good well drained soil mix in the raised beds. Try and incorporate some of your native soils in with any prepared or engineered soil mix you may use. The mico nutrients that are available in that native soil simply cannot be replicated. It is usually a function of the soil structure and composition that helps the mico nutrients become available to the plants.

Your tomatoes will love you for it.
 
I've built 4 of these below.
I need to lined the wood to protect from dirt rot over time I feel. Would you use yard fabric? Roofing tar paper? Just want the wood to last at least 20 years. Remember it's dry climate here.

View attachment 666536 View attachment 666537
Wait wait WAAAAAAAAAIIIIIT just a vegetable picking minute! Um...is that a red FJ in the background there? :s0001: How about some more photos of that please! That thing looks nice! :)
 
If you decide to go the plastic route, a cheap way to get thick plastic is cheap shower curtains, way cheaper than actual branded "visqueen" (sp?)

Otherwise there are a few other materials that are essentially impervious to rot. Starboard, HEDP, and UHMW (kinda cost prohibitive). These are all welll known in the marine industry for their longevity.
 
If you decide to go the plastic route, a cheap way to get thick plastic is cheap shower curtains, way cheaper than actual branded "visqueen" (sp?)

Otherwise there are a few other materials that are essentially impervious to rot. Starboard, HEDP, and UHMW (kinda cost prohibitive). These are all welll known in the marine industry for their longevity.
I guess I could of lined them with marine grade plywood.
 
Wait wait WAAAAAAAAAIIIIIT just a vegetable picking minute! Um...is that a red FJ in the background there? :s0001: How about some more photos of that please! That thing looks nice! :)
It is! I don't talk about it much due to the color. I hate red. But, it was in incredible restored condition so I bought it. It's a 77. I miss the color of my 75 which was green. I really love the beige.
 
20 years ?
I would be looking at something like an FRP liner.
Fiberglas Reinforced Paneling
It's used in sanitary applications.
Cut with normal woodworking tools.
Not prohibitively expensive.

Use your favorite sealant for adhesion and at corners.

Will outlast your wood.
 
Last Edited:
20 years ?
I would be looking at something like an FRP liner.
Fiberglas Reinforced Paneling
It's used in sanitary applications.
Cut with normal woodworking tools.
Not prohibitively expensive.

Use your favorite sealant for adhesion and at corners.

Will outlast your wood.
I agree. FRP comes in 4x8 sheets so it is relatively easy to cut and install. It is a plastic-like product. May come in colors (black would be heat retentive). You would still have 4 corners to seal but it is impervious to water intrusion otherwise. Restaurants use this alot on their kitchen walls as it is easy to clean and made sanitary. Its the slightly bumpy wall covering (look around the dishwashing units.

If used I would design a flange to overlap the box sides over the top of the FRP so that any water runs over the top gap of the FRP . Copper would be great and keep slugs and creepy crawlers from intrusion.

IMHO this is the best of the choices mentioned so far and probably the least expensive. You'd probably want to do copper somewhere on there anyway.

Nice boxes. SIL built four that look much like that. Has water drip irrigation installed inside them all.
 
I agree. FRP comes in 4x8 sheets so it is relatively easy to cut and install. It is a plastic-like product. May come in colors (black would be heat retentive). You would still have 4 corners to seal but it is impervious to water intrusion otherwise. Restaurants use this alot on their kitchen walls as it is easy to clean and made sanitary. Its the slightly bumpy wall covering (look around the dishwashing units.

If used I would design a flange to overlap the box sides over the top of the FRP so that any water runs over the top gap of the FRP . Copper would be great and keep slugs and creepy crawlers from intrusion.

IMHO this is the best of the choices mentioned so far and probably the least expensive. You'd probably want to do copper somewhere on there anyway.

Nice boxes. SIL built four that look much like that. Has water drip irrigation installed inside them all.
Ok
Yes this is my 3-4 run on raised beds. I've learned that drip is best due to wind here.
 
Nice boxes. I've been gardening vegetables all my life, raised beds the past twenty years. My suggestion is at point of ground contact add some pressure treated lumber. Flip em over and screw on some 2 X 4 PT. Keep the moisture from the earth at bay. Happy gardening!
 
Nice boxes. I've been gardening vegetables all my life, raised beds the past twenty years. My suggestion is at point of ground contact add some pressure treated lumber. Flip em over and screw on some 2 X 4 PT. Keep the moisture from the earth at bay. Happy gardening!
Im kinda starting to question applying anything lined on the inside walls. It's really dry over here. But in NW Oregon, these boxes would be metal.
 
Another option I have seen is insert seperate containers (plastic) that have drainage at the bottom. Not sure what your interior measurements are, but you may find containers at restaurant supply shops or garden supply places. Even online. Don't need just one, can place two or even four containers to make the space.
 
We built ours out of redwood which was surprising affordable at home depot as compared to cedar, then just laid mesh weed barrier below. I figure they will last long enough over here in the free state.
 

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