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Interesting that my .351wsl does that to my converted .357 cases, but not so severely. Odd that the .351 has a looser chamber than a .357 right? I don't load them super hot. I don't want to beat the buffer to death, parts are hard to find and replace. I usually get 5 to 6 reloads out of my conversions before split happens. It's rough on brass.
351 is a semi-auto, so the chamber is slightly loose for reliable cycling.
 
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What business is it of yours?
 
Just curious, what is your set up to trim the caseheads from the brass?
Hacksaw and file, nothing fancy just good old-fashioned elbow grease and great care not to lop off a finger. A Dremel with cutting and grinding heads would probably work faster, better and safer but mine's buried in my storage unit across the county and it's a bloody nuisance getting back out there.
 
Cartridge case chop saw:


Bruce
I utilize one of these with a jig for 300BLK conversion which it stays setup, it's a pain to reset the jig once it's "perfect".
For cutting the head off, IMHO, it requires a slower speed and more teeth hack or bandsaw to be safe. Just my method of choice.
 
@Caveman Jim If any of it's nickeled .380, perchance is there any way I could talk you out of a couple cases? The guy who picked me up when Redstate chucked me over the side, his wife favors turquoise and carries a .380 auto so I figured "keep to a Southwestern Silver motif."

A buck a pop for just the case heads I'm seeing from scrappers is whack; that's about the going rate for once-fired brass.
 

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