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I have experimented with both one shot spray lube and hombrew concoction of lanolin and 99% iso alcohol. Neither one caused any issues with powder burn when residue was left inside cases.
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Sorry, I missed your question. Chargemaster? Outstanding. There are three there. Picture is a fraction of what's there. Never found a ball or stick powder that didn't measure within .01, and consistent. Occasionally find them in classifieds for 200 or so. I like the old two piece best, if you can find one. New ones are faster, but can get squirrelly. For Blue Dot, Steel (flake) for reduced loads, use the scale and dribble. The first Dillon, with automatic powder drop, was a wake up, because it wasn't consistent with stick, like H-4198. Just experimented and found Lil Gun, 2200, CFE-BLK, that got back to .01 consistently. Hope that helps.I see an RCBS Chargemaster in there...
How do you like it, or automatic dispensing in general?
How do they do with extruded powders like 4064?
I'm looking to ramp up my rifle production and have been wondering if they are with the money?
Looked at the RCBS, Lyman and Hornady models but have heard mixed reviews... Internet being the internet I take it lightly...
Looks like you actually use one, is it worth it?
Slightly unrelated....
What do you all use for lube before sizing rifle brass??
Important not to contaminate powder with anything that sticks to it. Look inside the case neck after you've charged powder, if you see any powder sticking on neck walls. No more of that with dry lube.
Homebrew case lube.Slightly unrelated....
What do you all use for lube before sizing rifle brass??
Found a new spot of high volume rats. After first trip, it took me two weeks of all day loading on a single stage to get enough ammo to get back. Got a 550 to speed things up, and try to save steps by tumbling less often. On let's say 20vt: first light finger swipe of imperial wax on case with a hint over the top for the expander ball ( this is pre dry-lube), pull the handle to deprime, FL size, and prime...then drop powder, seat bullet - done. How I found something was amiss was I had to pull some bullets for some reason. Inside the neck, a small lump of powder caked together, caused from the minuscule amount of lube inside the neck. Dry lube fixed problem because it's dry graphite. Never liked the mica because was still drag on the expander ball,not as smooth as graphite. So I would think that any greasy substance on your case walls could cause problems. Think these loads had been to the hot country and back- if that made a difference in melting the wax - ??I have experimented with both one shot spray lube and hombrew concoction of lanolin and 99% iso alcohol. Neither one caused any issues with powder burn when residue was left inside cases.
Found a new spot of high volume rats. After first trip, it took me two weeks of all day loading on a single stage to get enough ammo to get back. Got a 550 to speed things up, and try to save steps by tumbling less often. On let's say 20vt: first light finger swipe of imperial wax on case with a hint over the top for the expander ball ( this is pre dry-lube), pull the handle to deprime, FL size, and prime...then drop powder, seat bullet - done. How I found something was amiss was I had to pull some bullets for some reason. Inside the neck, a small lump of powder caked together, caused from the minuscule amount of lube inside the neck. Dry lube fixed problem because it's dry graphite. Never liked the mica because was still drag on the expander ball,not as smooth as graphite. So I would think that any greasy substance on your case walls could cause problems. Think these loads had been to the hot country and back- if that made a difference in melting the wax - ??
It's cheap enough to make compared to premade.. sure. You should though grab a large bowl, spray in there. I have mine in a bowl so I can get the inside of the case necks too while spraying. The lanolin will also keep your hands soft.So I can mix that up and spray cases on the block, despite waste...
How long after applying can the cases be sized?
I believe this sub-topic is a part of this thread, so I'll risk being 'mini-flamed' if I depart from the lube theme you have going here. :-D
My question is about two Lee Precision products that are offered for a Lee Classic Turret Press that I just purchased.
If you had a choice between a Pro Auto-Disk and an Auto Drum (both from Lee Precision), which would you choose to load 223 with a range of projectiles from 40g to 62g? I have read that the Pro Auto Disk is more accurate for precise/consistent bench loads, but the Auto Drum works better with larger powder volume loads in a 223 case (according to the Lee Load Data charts). I have also heard of people buying a second set of disks for the Pro Auto-Disk. Does this solve that problem by providing additional volume capability per charge?
I'm a Reloader-Newbie and am getting my arms wrapped around the complexities of this new hobby. I do love the details, though. :-D
Thanks.
I've heard the same. But... of the 8 or so Auto-Disc Pro's that I have they are all consistent. My highest powder charge is shy of 24 grains. I won't throw bulk much beyond that.I believe this sub-topic is a part of this thread, so I'll risk being 'mini-flamed' if I depart from the lube theme you have going here. :-D
My question is about two Lee Precision products that are offered for a Lee Classic Turret Press that I just purchased.
If you had a choice between a Pro Auto-Disk and an Auto Drum (both from Lee Precision), which would you choose to load 223 with a range of projectiles from 40g to 62g? I have read that the Pro Auto Disk is more accurate for precise/consistent bench loads, but the Auto Drum works better with larger powder volume loads in a 223 case (according to the Lee Load Data charts). I have also heard of people buying a second set of disks for the Pro Auto-Disk. Does this solve that problem by providing additional volume capability per charge?
I'm a Reloader-Newbie and am getting my arms wrapped around the complexities of this new hobby. I do love the details, though. :-D
Thanks.
I'm sure I say it for all that lurk this section: Anytime.Ok. That helps a lot! Thanks, all.
This changes the story....
You can't use a 9mm charging die on a .223
The hole is too big in the center, powders gonna go everywhere.
Here is your expander:
View attachment 545926
Here is the inside of the expander with a .223 case:
View attachment 545924
See the rim? Powders gonna stack and fall out.
Not to mention the charging die will push on the shoulder like this:
View attachment 545925
You are asking for trouble.
The rifle charging dies have a '/ \' to accommodate different mouth sizes.
They are made for .22 cal up to .400" because the hole in the middle is .233" and the outside of your case is roughly .250". The case will NOT go into the hole, but if you jamb it up in there your case mouth will shrink causing powder to get stuck on the mouth of the case (ask me how I know).
The below is my actual .223 charging die. Notice how the brass marks on the top (bottom) show where the .223 cases hit all of the time? You can't funnel into a bottleneck rifle case, you have to use the inverse of a funnel or somewhere inside the die sticks of powder will logjam and make a mess.
View attachment 545929
So... 223 case on 9mm charging die: no
@robertvarner
I experience a powder-shower.