I screwed up my S&W 686 WITH 38 SPECIAL AMMO, help

[atowne2]

I shot a hundred 38 special rounds in my S&W 686 357 mag and now when I shoot 357 mag in it the empties stick in the cylinder. I have tried to clean it, to no avail ,with solvent and brass brushes. What should I do to get rid of the sticking empties?

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[galvweld]

I put brass brush .38/.357on power drill. Usually remove cylinder from frame. Use solvent. Better if you have a drill press to keep everything really straight. I keep shooting .38 with regular cleaning.

 

[atowne2]

I put brass brush .38/.357on power drill. Usually remove cylinder from frame. Use solvent. Better if you have a drill press to keep everything really straight. I keep shooting .38 with regular cleaning.

Is the cylinder easy to remove?

 

[atowne2]

Thanks, just watched a video of how to remove the cylinder. I will try your method on my drill press.
Thanks for your help

 

[K-22]

Thanks, just watched a video of how to remove the cylinder. I will try your method on my drill press.
Thanks for your help

It will be beneficial to give the chambers an overnight soak in powder solvent, or CLP prior th the brushing.

 

[atowne2]

It will be beneficial to give the chambers an overnight soak in powder solvent, or CLP prior th the brushing.

Will do!!!

 

[Fishjager]

Since it is stainless. Put some FLITZ on the brush and polish the cylinder at the same time.

 

[Tony617]

I have 686 and I shoot 38 Spl most of the time so I clean my cylinder very well. I am using Hoppe's #9 and using a nylon brush.

 

[drstrangelove]

A lead-away patch wrapped around the 357 brush chucked into the drill press will do wonders. Pre soak in CLR

This is why I shoot 38 in 38 and 357 in 357.

 

[solv3nt]

Use solvent.

Here I am.

 

[Bobbygun]

I have 686 and I shoot 38 Spl most of the time so I clean my cylinder very well. I am using Hoppe's #9 and using a nylon brush.

Agreed. I have a 4" 686 plus and run a lot more .38 Special than .357 Magnum through it. I'm pretty good about keeping my guns clean, but not a fanatic. Like you say: Hoppe's #9 and nylon brush. I've never had sticky cases of any kind in my 686 plus.

 

[titsonritz]

Me wonder if it is not an ammo issue. Is it happening across the board with various factory loads or just Uncle Cletus' homebrews? I've never had an issue running 357 after 38 AFTER a good cleaning and never had to go crazy with a drill either.

 

[atowne2]

The 38's were lead reloads, I'm looking for a 38 so I can keep my 686 for 357 only

 

[CLT65]

Me wonder if it is not an ammo issue. Is it happening across the board with various factory loads or just Uncle Cletus' homebrews? I've never had an issue running 357 after 38 AFTER a good cleaning and never had to go crazy with a drill either.

Same here. I have a 66, a 586, and a model 28. I shoot a quite a bit of 38 Special in all of them from time to time, interchangeably with 357 mag ammo, with never any serious sticking.

One thing I've heard recommended, though never tried, is to bell and sharpen an empty .357 case with a deburring tool, then tap it into each chamber. The brass won't hurt the steel, but should scrape out any lead or carbon buildup.

 

[kopcicle]

Anyone have reamers a tenth or two above and below .380" ?

Asking for a friend

 

[coltemp]

The 38's were lead reloads, I'm looking for a 38 so I can keep my 686 for 357 only

And that right there is the key problem. Lead reloads. You are getting leadding in the cylinder.
Shoot regular ammo 9 (i.e. FMJ or JHP) that is jacketed and you likely would not have any issues.

Never had any issues in my GP100 which is basically the 686. Happy shooting

 

[OldBroad44]

Soft lead bullets leave lots of debris in barrels. Better if practice ammo is full metal jacketed or hardcast. And if shooting .38s, clean cylinder after each practice session.

If you are rolling your own you may have the option of loading .38sp power loads into .357 mag cases.

With bought reloads I prefer to have them reloaded on my own brass. Random used brass can be shot so many times the brass swells a bit and is prone to sticking.

 

[Joe13]

And that right there is the key problem. Lead reloads. You are getting leadding in the cylinder.
Shoot regular ammo 9 (i.e. FMJ or JHP) that is jacketed and you likely would not have any issues.

Never had any issues in my GP100 which is basically the 686. Happy shooting

Same. My last gp100 ss 6" saw way more .38's then .357 and I just cleaned it like I would any gun and never had an issue. All were jacketed factory ammo though.

I finally just got ahold of a little ammo to be able to shoot the new to me gp100 ss 6" I was gifted by my boss a year and a half ago after he found out it was one of the guns I had to sell and had always wanted to replace.

 

[thorborg]

I never had an issue with 38's in my 357 sp101 but being a revolver, they can get grimy really fast spitting gas and soot everywhere from the cylinder gap so I always gave it a good cleaning after range time which I assume abated that problem.
Of all the mitigated gall..ing

 

[K-22]

Since it is stainless. Put some FLITZ on the brush and polish the cylinder at the same time.

Flitz on a bronze brush?
A cloth patch, with Flitz, would be a much more effective combination.