I built a Psa m4, screwed the easiest thing up. Ideas welcome!!

[edzz]

Why bugger the frame, just cut the guard out.

 

[Yarome]

Looking more closely at the OP photo and enlarging... it looks like drilling through isn't an option and concede to cutting out the trigger guard.

The currently pinned section isn't straight between the ears for drilling it through. Maybe driving the long pin in with no where to go out the other side it angled in or bent and twisted that side of the trigger guard all cock-eyed.

I guess it pays to be more observant before responding.

 

[Yarome]

But i've done so little metalworking that I'm not confident I can place a blind hole in exactly the right spot,

Off topic, but sans caliper Trick: Lay a piece of paper on the side with the hole and do a pencil/crayon rub. Poke out the hole center. Then with the colored side facing down on the side you want to drill out... and backlighting... align the rub drawing with the ear you want to drill and mark through the drill hole you made from the other side.

 

[rottiedude59]

Well I got it, first I just cut off all of the guard except the piece around the roll pin, then I cut it in 2 spots with a small Dremel cut of wheel, didn't quite cut thru the roll pin, was then able break the guard away in little pieces leaving me just the roll pin, then worked it out with vice grips !! Won't do that again !!

 

[rottiedude59]

Your rifle, your call and that's perfectly good enough for any of us.

I mentioned earlier... if you're good with black... I have a few spare magpul's exactly like yours... or a black billet aluminum low profile trigger guard you're welcome to. Pins included. First rifle get's a free boo-boo pass and save yourself the 20 bones... if that color works for you.

Private message if you want one.

I appreciate it, I got and ordered one before I saw your post, So I built this seems to great, everything works, had a guy tell me I need to check the head spacing before I fire, is that true

 

[Yarome]

I appreciate it, I got and ordered one before I saw your post, So I built this seems to great, everything works, had a guy tell me I need to check the head spacing before I fire, is that true

It's always a good idea to check headspace with any new barrel and bolt combination. Go-No go gages aren't exactly cheap though ($90-$120) and not very practical for a one time build. It sounds like you bought a pre assembled PSA upper and likely came with a BCG(?) With a supplied bolt and BCG combo, odds are great you're going to be just fine and I wouldn't worry too much about it... unless, there are obvious issues once you take it out for test firing.

Not enough headspace and your bolt will have difficult locking. Too much headspace and you will notice stretching/bulging on the rear of expended shell casings. If you don't have one, a caliper is a highly affordable and worthwhile tool for anyone that does any firearm related "hands on".

Their are "poor man's" go-no-go "hacks" using a casing and layered cellophane tape, but I wouldn't rely on those results. Factory cases can have enough deviation that any test like that can/will have "false returns"... either go or no-go.


IOW, It's highly recommended, but unless you know someone with a set of gages or are willing to pay a gunsmith to check it for you, it's not really practical or absolutely necessary. Any issues with headspacing will be readily apparent if you take notice.

*There are folks that will try and tell you that you risk explosion, catastrophic failure and death if you don't check headspace. They are just largely propagating myth when it comes to a 5.56 rifle. The most likely worst case scenario with massively excessive headspacing in a 5.56 is the head of the brass will shear off during extraction. That's "IF" it will even fire since that large of a gap is more likely to just give you a light primer strike and simply not go off.

 

[sophiedog19441]

This is basically what I did when I drove a bolt catch roll pin into an upper that I didn't realize was "enhanced" and threaded for one of those screws. I cut through the bolt catch and the pin then pulled the pieces out with pliers. The same approach would work here, and probably be a lot less effort than the drilling and tapping suggestions.

Well if you are not comfortable with the fix then take it to a local gunsmith and have him fix it shouldn't cost more than an arm and a leg hopefully less!

 

[Certaindeaf]

Hacksaw and don't look back because pillar of salt.