I built a Psa m4, screwed the easiest thing up. Ideas welcome!!

[Nosferatu]

You're looking at this all wrong; You have an anti-walk trigger guard pin. Your lower is now worth $55.

 

[ScottInPDX]

Dremel time, and buy a new trigger guard. Cut the trigger guard off close to the front ears, then cut what's remaining of the guard down the center.

This is basically what I did when I drove a bolt catch roll pin into an upper that I didn't realize was "enhanced" and threaded for one of those screws. I cut through the bolt catch and the pin then pulled the pieces out with pliers. The same approach would work here, and probably be a lot less effort than the drilling and tapping suggestions.

 

[Koda]

MOE Enhanced Trigger Guards don't even use roll pins...

Dremel the old one out and the roll pin will easily be pushed up and out with needle nose pliers.

 

[nwslopoke]

You can try a vice. Use another roll pin to push the current one through.

Honestly, just leave it and rattle can the whole thing. No one will notice or really care.

 

[Yarome]

MOE Enhanced Trigger Guards don't even use roll pins...

Very true... if it was the other end of the trigger guard. The end of the trigger guard he put in though is the roll pin side so once it's flipped correctly he can still use the threaded screw to secure the correct side to the front "ears"... and will only need a new roll pin for the back.

It's interesting to see so many recommending destroying the trigger guard.

Drilling one hole and being left with an intact trigger guard seem much easier and cheaper than using a dremel to cut up your triggerguard just to remove a pin and and having to pay for a replacement.

All things considered....


What I'm impressed with is how the heck he got that pin in and mushroomed out flush to fit the front ears... and without breaking the back ear off. That's what you call "motivated"... and extremely lucky.

 

[tReznr]

I'd probably just leave it as it is. The firearm is perfectly functional.

 

[Koda]

It's interesting to see so many recommending destroying the trigger guard.

Drilling one hole and being left with an intact trigger guard seem much easier and cheaper than using a dremel to cut up your triggerguard just to remove a pin and and having to pay for a replacement.

Lost me... MOE trigger guards are like what 15 bucks?
Why care about the trigger guard when it can be easily ground away with a dremel, roll pin extracted and zero bubba mods to the lower?

 

[Yarome]

Lost me... MOE trigger guards are like what 15 bucks?
Why care about the trigger guard when it can be easily ground away with a dremel, roll pin extracted and zero bubba mods to the lower?

Why pay 15 bucks for a new trigger guard when you own a perfectly good one? You realize... there is already a hole in one side, right? It's hardly a "bubba mod" making one side look exactly like the other.

I guess if you're so mechanically challenged where drilling a presentable hole is beyond your capabilities... that person might consider it a 'bubba mod', but if you're that mechanically challenged... should you really be playing around with a multi tool capable of spinning a small piece of metal at 30,000 RPM's??

You can put an eye out!

 

[Koda]

 

[Yarome]

View attachment 1825945

EXACTLY!!

 

[msgriff]

 

[Koda]

 

[ScottInPDX]

It's interesting to see so many recommending destroying the trigger guard.

I also wouldn't describe your suggestion of drilling a hole on the other side as a "bubba mod" - that seems a bit dramatic. No one will ever notice it, especially if you hit it with some Aluminum Black (not a typo, they spelled it like that so they could trademark it).

But i've done so little metalworking that I'm not confident I can place a blind hole in exactly the right spot, especially without a drill press (which I don't have access to). So I just follow a simple rule - if I'm permanently modifying something, I always modify the cheaper part. If I have a receiver that I've already done the BGC for, even a cheap PSA one, I'd rather spend an extra $20 on another trigger guard than risk buggering up the receiver. And I am confident I can put a cutting wheel in exactly the right place because I can keep eyes on it the whole time.

Just different approaches based on the skills, tools available, and priorities of the person doing the work. I think both are valid.

 

[Yarome]

I'd rather spend an extra $20 on another trigger guard than risk buggering up the receiver.

Your rifle, your call and that's perfectly good enough for any of us.

I mentioned earlier... if you're good with black... I have a few spare magpul's exactly like yours... or a black billet aluminum low profile trigger guard you're welcome to. Pins included. First rifle get's a free boo-boo pass and save yourself the 20 bones... if that color works for you.

Private message if you want one.

 

[ar man]

Trigger guard is crooked up front drill out from the left hand side where is has the circle then punch it out from that side.

 

[TTSX]

 

[rottiedude59]

The mag will not go in with the way it is, deemed sounds like best bet !! Thanks for all the info, much appreciated

 

[kmk1012]

I did this once before, I built a "press" with a small c-clamp, small socket, and an undersized drill bit cut in varying lengths. Worked like a champ.

 

[rottiedude59]

If you put the trigger guard in backwards can you put a magazine in? I used the Magpul MOE trigger guard one as well for my AR build.

The mag will not go in

 

[JuglansRegia]

I did one like that but the trigger guard didn't interfere with the magazine. The easiest solution is to get the tightest fitting drill you can squeeze through that roll pin and use it as a pilot, drill through the other ear then drill a hole the same diameter or slightly smaller than the roll pin in that ear and tap out the roll pin with a drift punch. Some lube and heat would help. Also make sure the ear with the roll pin stuck in it is in solid contact with a hard flat surface and that there is room for the pin to escape. If you can find an american made ez out, that might work but I would be worried the pin would be too hard for it to get a good grip, plus you would have to rotate and pull at the same time to get it out, with similar force that was needed to get it where its at.