I built a Psa m4, screwed the easiest thing up. Ideas welcome!!

[rottiedude59]

You know anything about ARs ? I built a Psa m4, screwed the easiest thing up!! Put the trigger guard on backwards, pounded a roll pin into a blind hole, the lower was only 49.99 but has the serial # so don't just want to throw away! I was going to just drill thru and push the pin back out the way it went in, don't thin it would cause any issues, just be o hole in the lower where there wasn't, and ideas to get it back out ?

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[Camelfilter]

Thread created for you, may get input to help...

 

[P7M13]

A quality screw extractor can grip the inside of the roll pin, even though it's hardened. You then pull it out.
Don't break it off while it's in there, or you're double-forked.

 

[TTSX]

I mean, if it's even halfway sturdy I'd just leave it as is. Buying more tools could drive the price of your $50 receiver much higher than you'd like and there's nothing I'm looking at that'll cause a functional issue.


The drilling a through hole would also work. And using a screw extractor IF you can get a good enough bite.

Could also stick some epoxy around the edges of the trigger guard and call it a day from there.

 

[msgriff]

Dremel time, and buy a new trigger guard. Cut the trigger guard off close to the front ears, then cut what's remaining of the guard down the center.

 

[huntpotter]

Find a machine screw and tap that will fit the ID of the roll pin. Tap it. Screw the screw in as far as it will go. Take the screw back out, after you are happy with the thread engagement. Use a short piece of steel tubing that will fit over the OD of the roll pin. Slide the screw through the tubing, and start screwing it in, through the tubing, with the tubing pressing on the receiver tab. See if it will start pulling the pin up and out.
I may not have explained it very well, but I'm picturing it like a miniature gear or bearing puller.

 

[Unka-Boo]

Leave it and chalk it up to learning curve.
You're more likely to mess it up trying to "fix" it.

 

[P7M13]

Find a machine screw and tap that will fit the ID of the roll pin. Tap it. S

Roll pins are hardened. You'll snap the tap. That equals FUBAR.

Leave it and chalk it up to learning curve.
You're more likely to mess it up trying to "fix" it.

Best advice.

 

[huntpotter]

Roll pins are hardened. You'll snap the tap. That equals FUBAR.

Best advice.

Cobalt Ticn coated roll form tap, will produce threads in roll pins. Not an average hardware store tap though.

Better advice was the cut off the trigger guard, and cut through the guard and pin, with a cutoff wheel.

And then use a GI trigger guard, so you can actually use winter fold down trigger guard feature.

 

[USMC1911]

Gonna be hard to keep that pin from turning when trying to tap it. Dremel and cutoff wheel. I would try a screw extractor first and if it breaks go to the dremel.

 

[quneur]

Duct tape.

Really, leave it as is. Its a budget friendly PSA. You'll spend more time and money fiddling with something that will more likely make you more frustrated. Take that money and save it for another stripped lower when you can. In the meantime, go out and shoot it.

 

[P7M13]

Cobalt Ticn coated roll form tap, will produce threads in roll pins. Not an average hardware store tap though.

Better advice was the cut off the trigger guard, and cut through the guard and pin, with a cutoff wheel.

And then use a GI trigger guard, so you can actually use winter fold down trigger guard feature.

Understood, but a #2-56 (about the ID of the roll pin) snaps easily just going through mild steel if you don't have 'the touch" and Tap Free.

 

[Nosferatu]

This is what sawzalls are for.

You might have the first "Derringer-ized" AR.

 

[Barfly]

looks like there might be enough of that pin peened over on the outside of the hole to grab it with a good set of needle nose. try to pull it out. You could also run a screw into the roll pin and try to twist it out, don't pull straight out.
alternatively, just leave it as is. It is functional.

 

[Yarome]

The "safe" option would to just drill a punch hole through on the other side and tap it out. It's needs to be very precise though to ensure proper alignment for your punch.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with having a through and through hole on the forward trigger guard ears.

If you are bound and determined not to...

It depends on how hard the pin went in, but for your "average" to "moderate" pin insertions... and If you're okay with sacrificing a drill bit, one can be used as an extractor. Just slightly larger than the inner diameter of the roll pin, at absolute slowest speed and under pressure will cut/feed quick and deep. Then using a vice grip you can pull the pin while keeping forward rotational pressure on the cutting edges of the bit for "grip" on the pin and rotate it out.

(To note: I wouldn't try and use a screw. The threads are too tight and the width you would need to get a good hold runs the risk of cracking out the aluminum "ear".)

I say "sacrifice" because it's likely the hardened pin is going to wreck your bits cutting edges. That method is less successful though if the pin went in "hard" to begin with. In that case, the odds are great that the bit will strip out or break off in the pin.

*I would reserve cutting up your trigger guard to get at the pin as a last resort, but if you do... and need a replacement... I have plenty of spares of various types I'm happy to send you, but they would be black. I don't have any FDE.

 

[Tony617]

If you put the trigger guard in backwards can you put a magazine in? I used the Magpul MOE trigger guard one as well for my AR build.

 

[Yarome]

If you put the trigger guard in backwards can you put a magazine in? I used the Magpul MOE trigger guard one as well for my AR build.

If the guard is straight it should, but it looks like the guard is kind of cockeyed to boot and one edge might be a little far in and may interfere with the back mag channel. Maybe from driving the full pin length into a space it wasn't met to fit it went a little sideways(?)

 

[ZA_Survivalist]

The puller would be the first choice as mentioned by @P7M13
But I agree with @TTSX that may drive the cost up altering the affordable build you are doing.
You could drill with a small bit using oil.. if the bit gets into enough of the roll pin you may be able to wedge and pull it out!

Worst case scenario, you drill a hole straight through, then you could always tap the soft aluminum and use to fasteners and loctite on either side to mount the trigger guard once the hole is there. I think I've seen that on ARFcom before.

 

[thorborg]

Try an appropriate size unplated steel wood screw (the old style have a long taper) to see if you can get it to grab the pin i.d. . (maybe a #4 or 3) Be careful as old style are slot head and easy to slip off of.
If so, you could try a small claw hammer (with some padding) to leaver out the pin like pulling out a nail.
If its a true roll pin, don't cram the screw in more than necessary as it would expand the pin increasing tension
.

 

[Burlk]

Consider fixing the trigger guard with a Dremel! Cut it close to the front ears, then split what's left down the middle