80% build tips

[Koda]

I personally wouldn't worry about coating the milled portions of a coated 80% receiver. Aluminum will oxidize over time but only if you leave it exposed and don't clean it. A thin film of oil or grease on those surfaces and it will be fine and last a lifetime and beyond.

 

[Gaust]

Does an 80% lower have to be designated for a pistol or rifle after being finished? When assembling are there any concerns about breaking sbr laws?

 

[notazombie]

All laws still apply. Build a pistol or build a rifle. Don't put a rifle stock on a pistol upper.

 

[The Heretic]

Ordered the 5D Tactical jig/etc.

So far, between the router and jig, spent more on the tools than materials (including 3 lowers, an upper and complete kit).

 

[The Heretic]

I hereby designate all of my lowers to be pistols.



Really - I think it is as simple as that, but a builder may wish to put some engraving on the lower to show that it is a pistol lower.

 

[The Heretic]

Home laser engraver??

 

[11Charlie]

Ordered the 5D Tactical jig/etc.

So far, between the router and jig, spent more on the tools than materials (including 3 lowers, an upper and complete kit).

Did you buy the pro version or the normal version? I'm wondering if the pro is worth the extra cost.

 

[11Charlie]

Well I just ordered the 5D tactical jig. Ended up spending the extra cash and went with the pro since it was 10% off and there were some added benefits to using the pro over there first gen jig.

 

[Rcguy33]

Birchwood casey "aluminum black" works good to turn the pocket and holes black again after exposing the raw alum. Easy to use and only takes a few minutes to apply. It doesnt add thickness to the metal like cerakote or paint.

 

[Diamondback]

Birchwood casey "aluminum black" works good to turn the pocket and holes black again after exposing the raw alum. Easy to use and only takes a few minutes to apply. It doesnt add thickness to the metal like cerakote or paint.

My concern would be, is it as durable and protective as Type III hardcoat? The standard I've personally set for myself is "Semi-only version of Mil-Spec," something that if I'd done on a Colt, BCM, KAC etc. shop floor would be worthy of inclusion as part of a gun built for a Mil/LE contract order.

 

[Rcguy33]

My concern would be, is it as durable and protective as Type III hardcoat? The standard I've personally set for myself is "Semi-only version of Mil-Spec," something that if I'd done on a Colt, BCM, KAC etc. shop floor would be worthy of inclusion as part of a gun built for a Mil/LE contract order.

Probably not as durable or protective as a type III hardcoat or something that would be used on a mil contract. But i doubt mil/le would contract out 80% type builds anyways. For me personally it serves the purpose of covering the raw alum and i havent noticed any wear/rub off on the contact surfaces yet. Granted i only have a few hundred rounds through them so far, so probably not enough use to see any change yet. If it does start to wear ill just take it apart and re apply.

 

[Diamondback]

But i doubt mil/le would contract out 80% type builds anyways.

True, I'm just saying that my goal is "even the pickiest of military armorers would never know it started life as an EPL unless I specifically TOLD them so."

Then again, I'm the dude who wants to homebuild an "every part dimensionally perfect in every way" Gauge Gun 1911 just like the hundred Colt built to help set up new lines for WWI... (These 100 perfect 1911s were used to check the tooling for proper setup.)

 

[Rcguy33]

I read the comments about taking the 80% to a shop for anodizing and ran into the same issue, they dont want to touch it. The alum black was my next best option. Maybe if enough guys get their 80% milled, there can be an anodizing meet up and everyone just does it at once. It doesnt seem that hard but for one person to invest the money on chemicals to do 1 or 2 doesnt seem worth it but if there are a dozen or more and everyone chipped in then it might be worth it. Just a thought.

 

[Tully Mars]

Home laser engraver??

I have been looking into one. I don't know jack about them, but the cheaper ones seem to either not do metal or will not go deep enough to meet ATF specs. As far as my personal stuff goes I choose not to put any #'s on them. I would like to be able to have that ability for those that do want their stuff numbered.

 

[Tully Mars]

My concern would be, is it as durable and protective as Type III hardcoat? The standard I've personally set for myself is "Semi-only version of Mil-Spec," something that if I'd done on a Colt, BCM, KAC etc. shop floor would be worthy of inclusion as part of a gun built for a Mil/LE contract order.

No it's not going to be as durable as Type III, not even close. That being said, there is very little wear to the inside of the fire control pocket. The only area that would see any real wear is where the upper contacts the lower through the rear pin. To me, the only real reason to touch up the fire control pocket after machining is simply for looks. If I lived up there I would do anyone's for the cost of materials, but I'm 1/2 the country away

 

[The Heretic]

I have been looking into one. I don't know jack about them, but the cheaper ones seem to either not do metal or will not go deep enough to meet ATF specs. As far as my personal stuff goes I choose not to put any #'s on them. I would like to be able to have that ability for those that do want their stuff numbered.

I looked into it and none of the home kits would do it. Needs at least 50 watts to engrave metal and that home kits only do about 1.5 watts

 

[The Heretic]

Did you buy the pro version or the normal version? I'm wondering if the pro is worth the extra cost.

I ordered the Pro because I want to be able to do AR-10s also

 

[MilitantBEEMER]

For my needs this will work:

Salt water etching.

 

[11Charlie]

I ordered the Pro because I want to be able to do AR-10s also

I did the one for AR-15 and 9's but from my understanding all I would need is the conversion kit to do a AR-10

 

[The Heretic]

Got my Ceratac upper and parts kit.

Fast shipping.

Bonus is that the bolt release lever is ambi - they gave me the 'DLX' lever by mistake (I think).

It looks to be an okay kit (won't know for sure until I put the rifle together and shoot it).

But I am now reminded why I prefer AKs over ARs.

I won't get into that here, as that would be off-topic.

Once I get everything I will start a separate build thread.