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I think everyone can respect Bravo Company (BCM), right ?
I don't care who you are, removing a pinned FSB can be a PITA.
Bravo Company is known to have a really tightly pinned FSB and this is their FSB removal method.
Yours may differ, but in any event, having the FSB off opens up more handguard choices.


From speaking with customers, it seems BCM FSB taper pins are harder to remove than some others. When we do it here, we can knock the pins free in under 60 seconds.
Here are some basic pointers on the way we remove them.

1) It takes Two. You will need a buddy to hold the upper group stable as you pound out the pins. You will not be able to get a good concentrated force on the pins if the upper is wobbling around (even a little bit).

2) Action Jackson. You will need a couple of action blocks (see Brownells for a good selection). These will be great platforms to stabilize the barrel. Also get the Brownells FSB block. You may have to mod the shape of the FSB block if using a free float.

3) Installed from starboard side. Milspec FSB are drill and the reamed for taper pins. The reamer runs from the right to the left (pointing the muzzle at the bad guy). So BCM pins need to be removed from left to right. Cannot be done the opposite way.

4) Secure that carbine. Using action blocks and the buddy system secure the upper group so the left side is facing up.

5) Get a fat one. We do not use those small radius head punches to break the pins free. We use a much fatter punch (5/16"). It's a meaty sucker. Lots to hang on to, and enables you to put some force on the hammer. Using a 5/16" punch and a 12oz hammer, give her a smack. Anywhere between 1 and 6 smacks, and the pin moves. All you want to do is to get it to move to about flush.

6) Grab a skinny one. Now get the tiny little 1/8" punch to push the pins out of the FSB. They are already broken free, this just drives the fully out. Tap, tap, tap.

7) Celebrate. You are done. Do the banana dance.


Hope this info helps...
Thanks!
Paul
This is a Ballistic Advantage Barrel, on the other side of Bravo Company in terms of affordability :s0140:

Edit. The Sarco FSB was also very tightly pinned from what I remember. I had to replace the taper pins on that one.

Edit two.. unless you mean to tell me that the FSB itself is a Bravo Company product?
 
This is a Ballistic Advantage Barrel, on the other side of Bravo Company in terms of affordability :s0140:

Edit. The Sarco FSB was also very tightly pinned from what I remember. I had to replace the taper pins on that one.

Edit two.. unless you mean to tell me that the FSB itself is a Bravo Company product?
It's just simply the "BCM Method" of FSB removal.
It is not "brand specific" at all.
A respected company and their method as told by the owner of the company.
 
No M-LOK ?
Cheese Grater instead ?

Imma gonna hafta stop trying to help :s0140:
My preference would be the A2 style or CAR style 2 piece retro handguards.. if they existed with round handguard caps.. S&W MP10 carbine seems to be it but also currently out of stock everywhere unless I become a member of ARFCOM.

UTG Pro's Ultra Slim handguard, without the M-Lok slots seems to be suitable, just it requires triangle end cap.

Edit in that it's a single rail alloy handguard with mounting holes for short rails on the sides vs M-Lok
 
Clamshell receiver block, and two C clamps to the 1.5" thick tabletop of my industrial sewing machines.. a 2x4 or wood shims under the FSB.. should be doable to remove FSB?
Might work.
But if there's any deflection, the pins may not move.
In that case, I'd move the operation down to the slab.
If you have some oak that's always better than fir for doing something like this.
 
Those who have ordered from Rock River Arms... how bad were they with shipping? I got a phone call then email from them to clarify and confirm shipping address. They finally charged my card yesterday with order total +12 shipping. No shipping notification email, just the charge. On their website, it does say no charge until ship items. FWIW, I ordered their A2 style Midlength plastic handguard, mid gas tube, gas tube pin, and triangle cap. All that's left is to get a 6 inch vise, barrel vise blocks, receiver vise block, and then BCG and Charging Handle. After that.... not yet sure which lower I want to buy... there's Bad Attitude Department's non-Government marked M16A2 marked lower, PSA "Property of US Government M16a2", Aero Precision M16A4, Bad Attitude Department's Low-Key (only their markings under trigger ), or Bushmaster's XM15E2S Ilion, NY marked stripped lower...

I see PSA also has PA-15 A2 stocked complete lower, but again, I ain't sure.
 
Got the RRA parts in. And tried to take the FSB off. No go. Even with vise and 2.5lb mini sledge. Ordered a Shooters Gate drop in Mid Length quad rail that fits round end caps; it's in the mail. Also have PSA M16A2 stripped lowers coming this week-ish. Only things left, BCG and LPK (or 2). Those can wait a little bit. I do have another A2 grip. I'll use the RRA midlength A2 style handguards and triangle cap on a different midlength upper build eventually.

Picked up what I believe to be RRA A2 stock assembly from gun show in Albany. It's on the Anderson lower with the 16" flat top, which looks like something that came out of RRA for police uses and certain States :s0140:
DSCF7169.JPG DSCF7168.JPG DSCF7157.JPG DSCF7156.JPG DSCF7154.JPG DSCF7153.JPG DSCF7152.JPG DSCF7151.JPG DSCF7149.JPG
 
Got the RRA parts in. And tried to take the FSB off. No go. Even with vise and 2.5lb mini sledge.
Just curious, were you hitting the pins from the proper side of the pin? They are tapered so they can only be inserted and removed in 1 direction. Also using a butane torch and lightly heating the gas block around the pins can make it easier to remove them
 
Just curious, were you hitting the pins from the proper side of the pin? They are tapered so they can only be inserted and removed in 1 direction. Also using a butane torch and lightly heating the gas block around the pins can make it easier to remove them
Yes. I was hitting the 0.06 side and not the 0.071ish side. The Sarco M4 barrels FSB wasn't this tightly pinned. Don't have a torch handy, but since I've already greased and torqued the barrel to the upper using Birchwood Case's vise block and 6" vise; I'll leave it alone for now.
 
Yes. I was hitting the 0.06 side and not the 0.071ish side. The Sarco M4 barrels FSB wasn't this tightly pinned. Don't have a torch handy, but since I've already greased and torqued the barrel to the upper using Birchwood Case's vise block and 6" vise; I'll leave it alone for now.
Understandable, was just wondering because I haven't ran into a block pinned that hard
 
It does seem that Ballistic Advantage's midlength barrels are designed to be used with Magpul handguards and not A2 style handguards. Oh well. Now that I know, I'll be getting either a stripped barrel or a different midlength barrel that comes with the triangle end cap for the RRA handguards, edit and another stripped upper :s0140:
 
When buying RRA stuff be aware they they use "commercial" type buffer tubes and buttstocks for their carbine stuff.
You're fine with the A2, they can't screw that up. I don't believe.
 
Last Edited:
When buying RRA stuff be aware they they use "commercial" type buffer tubes and buttstocks for their carbine stuff.
You're fine with the A2, they can't screw that up. I don't believe.
Yeah; it'll be either the A2 stock, or the Doublestar skeleton stock.. we'll see. The 2nd M16A2 lower... I'm debating between a 18-20" 5.56, a 18-20" 6.5 Grendel (Doublestar has a 20" rifle length gas barrel with FSB pinned)... not sure that I like the looks of a midlength gas 18" barrel as it has the same proportions as a carbine gassed 16"? We'll see what Doublestar tells me for the extension on their 6.5 Grendel barrel but I have a hunch that it's a M4 extension and thus would be best matched to a receiver with M4 cuts, M&A Parts Inc and JSE Surplus both sells A2 uppers with M4 cuts.
 
I acutely have the 'Bad' one shown!
Make sure that your barrel extension has M4 ramps as well.
Most AR barrels these days will have M4 ramps, but if you were to buy a Rock River barrel (for example) it would most likely not have M4 ramps.
I agree this was always the norm or common knowledge but I had the wrong upper receiver
for the barrel. I went ahead and assembled it and low and behold no feeding problems? Zero issues!
White Oak 24" optic match rifle barrel. I have about 1K down the pipe now with no feeding problems?
 
I acutely have the 'Bad' one shown!

I agree this was always the norm or common knowledge but I had the wrong upper receiver
for the barrel. I went ahead and assembled it and low and behold no feeding problems? Zero issues!
White Oak 24" optic match rifle barrel. I have about 1K down the pipe now with no feeding problems?
That's pretty interesting. I had feeding problems with the C7 upper and 6.5 Grendel 12" barrel because the extension was a m4 type and the receiver didn't have the cuts, in theory it should've worked but it didn't. Had a gunsmith cut feedramps and touched up, it now runs flawlessly.
 
I acutely have the 'Bad' one shown!

I agree this was always the norm or common knowledge but I had the wrong upper receiver
for the barrel. I went ahead and assembled it and low and behold no feeding problems? Zero issues!
White Oak 24" optic match rifle barrel. I have about 1K down the pipe now with no feeding problems?
In theory, a rifle upper receiver will work with M4 barrel extension.
While an M4 upper receiver and rifle barrel extension could cause a failure to feed.
 

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