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I might have something laying around
You might also look into some powdered mica. I just dip the neck in a little powdered mica and it's slick enough to keep the expander ball from getting hung up and doing anything goofy to the neck. It's not a liquid so you don't have to worry about it making the bullet not seat right or fouling your powder. It works quite well. You don't have to worry about recleaning the neck on your case if you get too much lube in there.
 
Ok, I got the brushes with the kit, just haven't done anything but clean brass so far. Is there something you'd suggest that would make a good makeshift lube pad since I don't have one yet? This kit doesn't have one.
I have the lube pad but use a zip lock bag instead. A couple of drop then shaky shaky and they are lubed.
 
I read that I might also want lube the inside of the necks for rifle casings. Any specific way that works best? Tips or things to be concerned about?
It's a PITA! But I haven't tried anything but the RCBS lube/pad. I have
the https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C7WFHRD...ting-goods&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw

I'll also use the RCBS lube on a Q-tip.
You might also look into some powdered mica. I just dip the neck in a little powdered mica and it's slick enough to keep the expander ball from getting hung up and doing anything goofy to the neck. It's not a liquid so you don't have to worry about it making the bullet not seat right or fouling your powder. It works quite well. You don't have to worry about recleaning the neck on your case if you get too much lube in there.
Another good reason to have the comparator, is to check and make sure the expander ball isn't undoing your shoulder bump back. I have not had an issue with the heavy .30-06, 6.5x55 or the thinner .223.
 
It's a PITA! But I haven't tried anything but the RCBS lube/pad. I have
the https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C7WFHRD...ting-goods&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw

I'll also use the RCBS lube on a Q-tip.

Another good reason to have the comparator, is to check and make sure the expander ball isn't undoing your shoulder bump back. I have not had an issue with the heavy .30-06, 6.5x55 or the thinner .223.
I heard the wax it really good, I might look into getting some. Right now, I'm just using the lube that came in the kit. All looks good, but I don't have a comparator tool yet
 
good reason to have the comparator,
Without the tool, I checked dimensions with a caliper from base to shoulder and base to neck. All are uniform so either nothing messed up or I messed all of them up exactly the same to the thousandth. You think they're good to load?
 
Without the tool, I checked dimensions with a caliper from base to shoulder and base to neck. All are uniform so either nothing messed up or I messed all of them up exactly the same to the thousandth. You think they're good to load?
I'm gonna hold off on going further until I better understand what I'm looking for
 
Hornady OneShot spray lube works beautifully and requires no extra cleaning after sizing. Primer and powder safe as well.
I used the RCBS spray lube with similar results.

I only went back to the pad because I have a bottle of liquid lube to use up and don't load near as many rifle rounds as pistol so it's not a real, time consuming inconvenience to use the pad but IF one is loading a fair amount of rifle ammo I recommend a spray lube.
 
It's a PITA! But I haven't tried anything but the RCBS lube/pad. I have
the https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C7WFHRD...ting-goods&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw

I'll also use the RCBS lube on a Q-tip.

Another good reason to have the comparator, is to check and make sure the expander ball isn't undoing your shoulder bump back. I have not had an issue with the heavy .30-06, 6.5x55 or the thinner .223.
Yet another good option is this:
I switched from my RCBS case lube and pad to Hornady Unique years ago and it is all I use, along with the RCBS Nylon brushes. A little on the finger tip around the inside of the case neck every 5th case or so, brushing the inside neck, and rubbing it on the case body with thumb and index finger works for me. The brush retains enough lube for 3 or 4 case necks, then scrape a little lube from the finger tip inside the neck, brush it and next.
 
Yet another good option is this:
I switched from my RCBS case lube and pad to Hornady Unique years ago and it is all I use, along with the RCBS Nylon brushes. A little on the finger tip around the inside of the case neck every 5th case or so, brushing the inside neck, and rubbing it on the case body with thumb and index finger works for me. The brush retains enough lube for 3 or 4 case necks, then scrape a little lube from the finger tip inside the neck, brush it and next.
I noticed with the RCBS Case slick, I had to re-lube the brush every 2nd or 3rd round
 
Yet another good option is this:
I switched from my RCBS case lube and pad to Hornady Unique years ago and it is all I use, along with the RCBS Nylon brushes. A little on the finger tip around the inside of the case neck every 5th case or so, brushing the inside neck, and rubbing it on the case body with thumb and index finger works for me. The brush retains enough lube for 3 or 4 case necks, then scrape a little lube from the finger tip inside the neck, brush it and next.
Have done it all those ways. Still a PITA to me. Graphite is messy and doesn't seem like it works all that well. The RCBS liquid is just kind of messy and gets on the fingers and brass and doesn't wipe off, so I find myself tumbling again. The one I haven't tried is using the "OneShot", stacking the brass upright, and spraying in the necks. "Case Lube" is the one un-fun part of the process is my conclusion! :D Once this bottle of RCBS stuff is gone, I might go with the Hornady stuff. I get it on my fingers eather way!
 
If you want to try the RCBS lube pad and Case Lube 2 (water soluble), I can mail you my old pad (still works fine) and an almost full container of lube. I doubt I will ever use it again.
 
I'm gonna hold off on going further until I better understand what I'm looking for
If you were loading for a bolt gun you can try your sized brass in the chamber of the gun. If the bolt closes with very little or no resistance the brass is where it should be.
Once you get the case comparator you use it on a piece of factory ammo, and then your sized brass, and that tells you if you bumped the shoulder back enough.
 
Have done it all those ways. Still a PITA to me. Graphite is messy and doesn't seem like it works all that well. The RCBS liquid is just kind of messy and gets on the fingers and brass and doesn't wipe off, so I find myself tumbling again. The one I haven't tried is using the "OneShot", stacking the brass upright, and spraying in the necks. "Case Lube" is the one un-fun part of the process is my conclusion! :D Once this bottle of RCBS stuff is gone, I might go with the Hornady stuff. I get it on my fingers eather way!
I admit to using a Q-Tip to swab the inside of the case necks after sizing. Yeah, I'm a little OCD.. :oops:
 
I admit to using a Q-Tip to swab the inside of the case necks after sizing. Yeah, I'm a little OCD.. :oops:
Those Q-tips I linked above are real sturdy. They don't fall apart like THE "Q-Tips". They're real cheap too.

I had wondered if the graphite inside neck lube really did that much? Once those little ceramic balls in applicator jar were getting to the point of needing turning over and tapping, I just did a couple more. I was afraid it was going to pull the neck off one case. I measured and it was still in spec. But I really had to put more that I wanted to on the upstroke.
Better leaning OCD than leaning careless. :)
 
When I started reloading 35 years ago there was no internet to teach me how to reload.

The "Lyman reloading handbook" told me everything I needed to know to get started. You will need a copy for the reliable reloading data so you might as well buy one as your first step in learning how to reload metallic cartridges:

I have 3 copies of different vintages because they add new cartridges as they become popular. Ex 50ae, 500S&W, 300 AAC, etc. I couldn't imagine reload without a copy.

P.S. NEVER go to the internet forums to research load recipes... that is the quickest route to a reloading disaster!
 
When I started reloading 30 years ago there was no internet to tech me how to reload.

The Lyman reloading handbook told me everything I needed to know to get started. You will need a copy for the reliable reloading data so you might as well buy one as your first step in learning how to reload metallic cartridges:
Now there's a 51st edition? Cool.
I believe he got the RCBS kit. If it's the same it comes with a Speer Manual. But it's more better to have two books, and I also consult the Hodgdon site.
 
I'm gonna hold off on going further until I better understand what I'm looking for
If you don't mind sacrificing one case and 1 bullet. Don't prime a round, seat a bullet with no powder in it and try to fit and feed and eject in your rifle. Your rifle chamber is the final word on your ammo. In other words, make a dummy round. I always do that and then write the measurements on the side of the brass with a sharpie and keep it in a little box. It's a handy reference.
 
If you don't mind sacrificing one case and 1 bullet. Don't prime a round, seat a bullet with no powder in it and try to fit and feed and eject in your rifle. Your rifle chamber is the final word on your ammo. In other words, make a dummy round. I always do that and then write the measurements on the side of the brass with a sharpie and keep it in a little box. It's a handy reference.
I should add that you can adjust your seating and/or crimping dies by just screwing them down snugly on top of the pattern cartridge you made. It can expedite the die set up quite a lot.
 

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