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Mixing and matching parts this is part of the story.

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Mixing and matching parts this is part of the story.

View attachment 1184080
based on the photo of your group size Id say you have a "tack driver" there.
Zeroed at 50 yards I would next shoot it at 100 and 200 yard targets and take photos of your group sizes to compare. Your 50 yard zero should be good at 200 yards and about 2 inches high at 100 yards.
Im not familiar with the reticle in your scope to say more but you should be able to learn which subtension to use at 300 yards and out.
 
The 36/50/200 yd zero works well for red dots and non adjustable BUIS.
I like the 36 yd zero for mine.
LPVO's are different and most are set up for a 100 yd zero so you can use either the BDC or subtensions accurately for distance shots without messing with the turrets.

For your scope and zeroed .5" low at 100 yds, assuming you have the MOA reticle.
Distance 225 yds.
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based on the photo of your group size Id say you have a "tack driver" there.
Zeroed at 50 yards I would next shoot it at 100 and 200 yard targets and take photos of your group sizes to compare. Your 50 yard zero should be good at 200 yards and about 2 inches high at 100 yards.
Im not familiar with the reticle in your scope to say more but you should be able to learn which subtension to use at 300 yards and out.
How does the subtenion apply to shooting closer that zero or less than say 50 yards? I am pointing the rifle slightly down right? Seems so odd to me. Time for Youtube subtension and balistic calculator 101. Oh sun is out. Time to shoot some clays :)
 
Random thoughts...Or for the sake of discussion and imagination, don't shoot that rifle less than 50 yards, bring out the sbr with iron sights or 1.5 acog. That means I need a new trigger and I was trying to avoid spending more money. See this all started when I swapped out lowers on that Colt to a Wilson to have a better trigger. I don't like where this is going as I will eventually need another optic. I started swapping out scopes cause I only have 3. Then the 6.5 is coming in the mail. Geez.
 
How does the subtenion apply to shooting closer that zero or less than say 50 yards?
It doesn't. 50yards isn't really that far at all, closer shots you still just aim dead on center of your crosshairs. Technically the closer you get to the muzzle the point of impact will start to become lower than your aim up to the distance your scope axis is mounted from the bore axis.
In short, don't worry about it just aim dead on from 0 - 200 yards with a 50 yard zero.

What is your intended use of this rifle?
 
The lowest your Point Of Impact vs Point of Aim from whatever distance you zero to the muzzle is about 2.71" if you have a mount that puts the center line 1.5" above the rail.

Same zero distance at 50 yds.
2 MOA holdover.
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It doesn't. 50yards isn't really that far at all, closer shots you still just aim dead on center of your crosshairs. Technically the closer you get to the muzzle the point of impact will start to become lower than your aim up to the distance your scope axis is mounted from the bore axis.
In short, don't worry about it just aim dead on from 0 - 200 yards with a 50 yard zero.

What is your intended use of this rifle?
That's where the problem started I was shooting good at 50 yards then at 100 it was 2" high. I didn't like it was so far off. I got the app but I think I need a tutorial. My intended use, at the moment I was using it has as a short mid distance target gun. I got a 308 AR10 in December but it's hard to shoot. The recoil on the 308 was a bit much even with a heavy barrel and the gun weights a ton so its hard to hold steady. I got comp'd a 6.5 from Winchester that is in the mail. I pulled off the vcog from the AR10 and put it on the Colt so I could get started practicing around here before that new 6.5 comes in. I have a 4x14 Leupold that will go on the new Winchester.

Long term, I would like to be able to shoot about 600 yards consistently in hopes I can get an elk in a couple years. (realistically probabally a 200-300 yard shot from the elk I've spotted around here).
 
That's where the problem started I was shooting good at 50 yards then at 100 it was 2" high. I didn't like it was so far off. I got the app but I think I need a tutorial. My intended use, at the moment I was using it has as a short mid distance target gun. I got a 308 AR10 in December but it's hard to shoot. The recoil on the 308 was a bit much even with a heavy barrel and the gun weights a ton so its hard to hold steady. I got comp'd a 6.5 from Winchester that is in the mail. I pulled off the vcog from the AR10 and put it on the Colt so I could get started practicing around here before that new 6.5 comes in. I have a 4x14 Leupold that will go on the new Winchester.

Long term, I would like to be able to shoot about 600 yards consistently in hopes I can get an elk in a couple years. (realistically probabally a 200-300 yard shot from the elk I've spotted around here).
For your Colt 6920 AR15 in 5.56 your 2" high at 100yds is normal, its supposed to do that with a 50 yard zero, this is the typical sight in with a 1-8LPVO scope you bought and should be a great mid-distance target gun (0-300yds) set up that way.

If you want to re-zero at 100 yards you can do that but then I dont know if your scopes subtensions (tick marks for hold over...) will work. Many LPVO scopes are designed for the 50yd zero with 556 ammo, find out what your scopes crosshairs are designed to zero at and use that.

You can get good practical target shooting fundamentals practicing with your AR15 that will prepare you for elk hunting but a hunting rifle and caliber is a totally different setup. Leupolds are very good hunting scopes and you will want to zero that at what the reticle you chose with the scope dictates. If its just a standard duplex reticle, many hunters also zero 2inches high at 100 yards and just aim dead on from 0-300 yards which is more than enough to hunt elk here. If you see elk farther out, stalk in closer, never take a shot you havent practiced at the same distance.
 
Federal has a ballistics app that's pretty handy.
I believe that the barrels are 20" for muzzle velocity.
I just subtract 50 FPS per inch for close enough without a chrono.

Ballistic apps aren't set in stone, they just get you close enough to dial it in.
You still have to verify and make a dope chart for either hold over or turret adjustment.
Each kind of ammo will need it's own chart.

For triggers I run a Centurion Arms AST two stage trigger in my 18" and 14.7" rifles.
I'll be putting it in any other ones I get too.

With a 100 yd zero you should be able to pop clays at 50 yds with good ammo and a center hold.
For golf balls you will need to hold over a bit.
 
Still studying.

Where in the bullets trajectory is zero? If I zero at 50 and I'm shooting at 100 yards Im pointing down so the bullet is still rising? Para what? Sorry still not totally understanding. If one of you all can talk me through it a bit (PM me) and get the rain to stop this week I'm hoping to make some progress. This up and down movement at zero is confusing me.

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I think of it as........

Those reduced range targets that say.......aim here, at 25, 35 or 50 yards.......and your bullets should end up here at 100 yds. are...."a crutch".

Yeah.....no argument from me, regarding saving money.

So then.......
Well, get on paper at the closer range.
Then, when you actually put the target out at the actual 100 yards, you should/could make the adjustment(s) (as necessary, to suit you). If you actually can/want to shoot at 200 - 300 yards.....well, more power to you.

BTW......
Length of barrel (cartridge velocity) and bullet weight (not to mention, the actual environmental factors) all play a role.

Just say that "Good Enough" is acceptable enough for me.

BTW, "Battle Sight Zero" is another contentious subject.

Yeah.....and I hardly never shoot with a scope. Mostly iron sights. Yup, the military even had those close in, sight in targets, for the M14 too.


Note: That in this case (M14) the aiming point is at the black circle and the bullet impacts are suppose to be ABOVE the circle (on the line). And your Battle Sight Zero will now be 250 meters. So you might have to "re-calibrate" the elevation knob. Read the instructions for how that is to be accomplished.

There are targets like that for the M16 and M4 rifles and even for when using different bullet weights.

Aloha, Mark

PS.........LOL. Read the instructions carefully.

Some targets will say that the target needs to be set out at 25 meters, not 25 yards. Yes....conversions and all that.

BUT for me, it's all "Good Enough".
 
Last Edited:
With my 1-8 Strike Eagle on my 6920 I zeroed at 50 and was 1.5 to 2" high at 100yds. 1.5 to 2" high at 100yds with a tight grouping is perfect for that scope and 6920 platform. I just keep that in mind and that way windage and ammo is the only issue. Just keep your settings in mind if you want to dial out further and want to dial back later. On my 1-8 that is dedicated on my 6920 I just keep it at a 50yd zero. Just how I keep mine dialed. Just remember to have fun with it!
 

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