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School me on chronographs
- Thread Starter shibbershabber
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A decent entry level chronograph around $110 is the Competition Electronics ProChrono Digital. The major downside to these types of chronographs is that the brains are in the body, which means an errant shot can kill the entire unit. The other downside is that the controls are on the body as well, but it appears there is a bluetooth option that lets you control it with a phone app.
The next step up is the CED Millenium 2, which has the brains and controls in a separate unit, and only the sensors are in the line of fire. It's around $200, and has some optional accessories like infrared skyscreens and a printer. This was the chronograph I started with, and it works well for pistols but I had trouble getting consistent readings with .223 rifles. I think this was because I was too timid with the bullet height over the sensors, for fear of shooting it.
The next level of chronograph is the MagnetoSpeed, where a magnetic sensor is strapped directly to the barrel or handguard. These seem to work very well, and are very popular. The major downside is that it can affect barrel harmonics, so you can't really shoot for groups and record velocity at the same time. The basic Sporter version is around $180, and the complete kit is usually around $380 (available in either a hard or soft case).
The best one on the market right now is LabRadar. As the name implies, it uses Doppler radar instead of photo sensors, and is fairly easy to use. It can measures speed at multiple points along the projectile's path, up to 100 yards, which is cool. It's also the most expensive, at $560. The biggest advantage is that the unit stays next to the firearm, and you shoot beside it rather than over it. I've only used mine a few times so far, but it seems to work as advertised. The ease of setup was easily one of the biggest selling points for me.
The best thing about both the MagnetoSpeed and LabRadar is that there's no setting up sensors downrange and trying to align them (which really sucks if people are waiting on you at a public range), and no chance of accidentally shooting it. (Unless you really screw up!
)
One of the biggest things to look for is the number of strings the chronograph can hold, and the number of shots per string. The really basic chronographs only record one velocity at a time with no memory, whereas the nicer ones will store the strings in memory for later download. Computer or phone compatibility is another thing to consider.
The reason shot strings are so important is that's how you get Average Velocity and Standard Deviation. It's nice to have the unit calculate these for you, unless you really like Excel formulas...
I hope this helps!
The next step up is the CED Millenium 2, which has the brains and controls in a separate unit, and only the sensors are in the line of fire. It's around $200, and has some optional accessories like infrared skyscreens and a printer. This was the chronograph I started with, and it works well for pistols but I had trouble getting consistent readings with .223 rifles. I think this was because I was too timid with the bullet height over the sensors, for fear of shooting it.
The next level of chronograph is the MagnetoSpeed, where a magnetic sensor is strapped directly to the barrel or handguard. These seem to work very well, and are very popular. The major downside is that it can affect barrel harmonics, so you can't really shoot for groups and record velocity at the same time. The basic Sporter version is around $180, and the complete kit is usually around $380 (available in either a hard or soft case).
The best one on the market right now is LabRadar. As the name implies, it uses Doppler radar instead of photo sensors, and is fairly easy to use. It can measures speed at multiple points along the projectile's path, up to 100 yards, which is cool. It's also the most expensive, at $560. The biggest advantage is that the unit stays next to the firearm, and you shoot beside it rather than over it. I've only used mine a few times so far, but it seems to work as advertised. The ease of setup was easily one of the biggest selling points for me.
The best thing about both the MagnetoSpeed and LabRadar is that there's no setting up sensors downrange and trying to align them (which really sucks if people are waiting on you at a public range), and no chance of accidentally shooting it. (Unless you really screw up!
)One of the biggest things to look for is the number of strings the chronograph can hold, and the number of shots per string. The really basic chronographs only record one velocity at a time with no memory, whereas the nicer ones will store the strings in memory for later download. Computer or phone compatibility is another thing to consider.
The reason shot strings are so important is that's how you get Average Velocity and Standard Deviation. It's nice to have the unit calculate these for you, unless you really like Excel formulas...
I hope this helps!
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Great post. Im sure that is helpful to anyone curious about chronographs. Ive seen the ones listed in your post, but only have experience with the pro-chrono. I bought mine used and the original owner glanced atleast 1 bullet across the top of it. They also shot the cardboard inserts that you are supposed to shoot through the small (2×3" approx) window. Because you need to take your time and make sure everything is lined up before you shoot, i dont suggest it, if you are on a public range. Id suggest one of the newer models that require less set-up tme and records shot strings. Pay the little extra money, youll be thankful you did.A decent entry level chronograph around $110 is the Competition Electronics ProChrono Digital. The major downside to these types of chronographs is that the brains are in the body, which means an errant shot can kill the entire unit. The other downside is that the controls are on the body as well, but it appears there is a bluetooth option that lets you control it with a phone app.
The next step up is the CED Millenium 2, which has the brains and controls in a separate unit, and only the sensors are in the line of fire. It's around $200, and has some optional accessories like infrared skyscreens and a printer. This was the chronograph I started with, and it works well for pistols but I had trouble getting consistent readings with .223 rifles. I think this was because I was too timid with the bullet height over the sensors, for fear of shooting it.
The next level of chronograph is the MagnetoSpeed, where a magnetic sensor is strapped directly to the barrel or handguard. These seem to work very well, and are very popular. The major downside is that it can affect barrel harmonics, so you can't really shoot for groups and record velocity at the same time. The basic Sporter version is around $180, and the complete kit is usually around $380 (available in either a hard or soft case).
The best one on the market right now is LabRadar. As the name implies, it uses Doppler radar instead of photo sensors, and is fairly easy to use. It can measures speed at multiple points along the projectile's path, up to 100 yards, which is cool. It's also the most expensive, at $560. The biggest advantage is that the unit stays next to the firearm, and you shoot beside it rather than over it. I've only used mine a few times so far, but it seems to work as advertised. The ease of setup was easily one of the biggest selling points for me.
The best thing about both the MagnetoSpeed and LabRadar is that there's no setting up sensors downrange and trying to align them (which really sucks if people are waiting on you at a public range), and no chance of accidentally shooting it. (Unless you really screw up!
One of the biggest things to look for is the number of strings the chronograph can hold, and the number of shots per string. The really basic chronographs only record one velocity at a time with no memory, whereas the nicer ones will store the strings in memory for later download. Computer or phone compatibility is another thing to consider.
The reason shot strings are so important is that's how you get Average Velocity and Standard Deviation. It's nice to have the unit calculate these for you, unless you really like Excel formulas...
I hope this helps!
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The reason shot strings are so important is that's how you get Average Velocity and Standard Deviation. It's nice to have the unit calculate these for you, unless you really like Excel formulas...
I hope this helps!
BTW-
Add the velocity values for each shot in the string together, then divide the grand total of all those shots by the number of shots fired to get your average..... math is hard, using Excel spreadsheets makes it even harder, LOL!
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Great overview, @ConcernedCitizen - thanks!
I bought his Magnetospeed when he upgraded to his Labradar.
My first was a Chrony Beta. Meh. The sensor shields popped off way too easily, so I modified them. It also has an undocumented feature where it might start reading shots at 1024 fps, no matter the caliber or light. Never figured out what caused that, I won't sell known junk, so I upgraded and it sits in its case. I've been much, much happier with the Magnetospeed. I hold onto the Chrony for pistol use (rather than give it away), but frankly, will seldom use it because of its quirky performance.
As far as the used market, the great deals are not common, and usually for a used one you'll find them at ~60-80% of retail.
Here's a knucklehead's experiential wisdom on chronographs:
I bought his Magnetospeed when he upgraded to his Labradar.
My first was a Chrony Beta. Meh. The sensor shields popped off way too easily, so I modified them. It also has an undocumented feature where it might start reading shots at 1024 fps, no matter the caliber or light. Never figured out what caused that, I won't sell known junk, so I upgraded and it sits in its case. I've been much, much happier with the Magnetospeed. I hold onto the Chrony for pistol use (rather than give it away), but frankly, will seldom use it because of its quirky performance.
As far as the used market, the great deals are not common, and usually for a used one you'll find them at ~60-80% of retail.
Here's a knucklehead's experiential wisdom on chronographs:
- No light-type chrono, where the bullet passes over sensors, will work in the dark, so these are useless at night ('bout the only time I can get to the range in the winter). Many are also very finicky with the heavy gray skies we have here, and some don't work too well in direct, mid-day sun.
- If you are using a light-sensor chrono, check on its water resistance. The Chrony I have is not.
- Every chrono has a setup regimen. Don't follow it, and you'll need another one. I've seen them shot by others, and have come danged close to shooting my Magnetospeed in moments of severe brain-flatulence.
- The most common error is forgetting scope/sight offset.
- Second most common is too close to muzzle blast and you see the sensor shields blow off.
- I've done both, (never shot it, tho') literally knocking my tripod over or watched my shields pop off and fly apart from muzzle blast. Some guys on the line may laugh, I don't think they've ever owned chronographs.
- The most common error is forgetting scope/sight offset.
- Magnetospeeds come with a guide rod and shims for setup. It's easy and reliable as long as you follow procedure. It's not issue free, though. Here are some I've experienced:
- The clamping strap sometimes slips off tapered barrels too easily, no matter how much you tighten (one rifle of mine).
- It won't work on some rifles with large muzzle brakes, though an adapter is available for this.
- On ARs, it needs 2-3" of exposed barrel between the handguard and the muzzle attachment. Don't have that? You ain't using it....
- The clamping strap sometimes slips off tapered barrels too easily, no matter how much you tighten (one rifle of mine).
- If you're a techie type, there are some really cool bluetooth hacks for chronographs, including ones that don't have bluetooth.
- When you get one, always bring the manual for it (whether digital on your phone or printed). It's a PITA to get an error code and not know what it means.
- Put crimps in the rod ferrules so they don't slide together or apart so easily;
- Stopped using the stupid sun shields and made an umbrella shield out of thin, milky acrylic. I could now use it in the rain and got more consistent results (i.e. no "bad read" values) in heavy, gray skies and direct sun. If it weren't for the 1024 reading, which really gets in the way of load tests, I would not have upgraded to the Magnetospeed.
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Concerned citizen did a great job laying out the options. I can recommend the magneto speed as I have been using one for about three years now. A very handy tool for developing loads and can be deployed anytime at the range without disrupting the firing line. I have the v3 edition but have heard good things about the sporter as well. It is a tool that can benefit all serious shooters and reloaders. Concerned citizen also raises some good points about platforms that cannot use a magneto speed. I keep my old shooting chrony around for these instances.
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As far as holding up the firing line for "old school" set-up, just set it up at the shooting bench and fire from the back-wall benches.....
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Good stuff guys, thanks.
Hopefully tax returns bring me enough to pick one up
Hopefully tax returns bring me enough to pick one up
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That's some excellent firsthand experience, @P7id10T. Thanks for sharing!
CED Infrared Skyscreen Set Millennium Millennium 2 - MPN: 100035
I've read that some people will even cover the entire chronograph with a box while using the infrared skyscreens, to eliminate any issues with sunlight or shadows.
Once you start adding in the cost of accessories though, you might as well just get the MagnetoSpeed unless you primarily plan to use the chronograph for pistols.
Actually, the CED Millenium 2 has the option of infrared skyscreens, which would allow you to shoot in the dark!
CED Infrared Skyscreen Set Millennium Millennium 2 - MPN: 100035
I've read that some people will even cover the entire chronograph with a box while using the infrared skyscreens, to eliminate any issues with sunlight or shadows.
Once you start adding in the cost of accessories though, you might as well just get the MagnetoSpeed unless you primarily plan to use the chronograph for pistols.
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Averages are easy. How are you at calculating Standard Deviation by hand?
BTW-
Add the velocity values for each shot in the string together, then divide the grand total of all those shots by the number of shots fired to get your average..... math is hard, using Excel spreadsheets makes it even harder, LOL!
Calculating standard deviation step by step
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@shibbershabber
FYI, it looks like a couple of used chronographs just showed up in the Classified section.
FYI, it looks like a couple of used chronographs just showed up in the Classified section.
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I'm on my second Caldwell. Shot a bit low...twice. first round didn't kill it, Second round a few weeks later from a G20 put it in the grave though. They arent super durable- cheap plastic body, and for $80 they are semi disposable. It's also cheap enough that you wont feel bound to one when you upgrade it a few years later and an idiot like me needs a fifth one will give you $40-$50 for it. The caldwell app for your phone is awesome, very functional and deep. Unfortunately the 3.5mm cable needs to be literally seated in the guts of your phone and the slightest twist will affect your connection. A good tripod makes a huge difference, and always keep spare batteries with you. Also, due to the sensors facing up, rain and weather is problematic. I have heard nothing but good stuff about the Magnetospeed, though for just about $400 it's certainly a buy once, cry once investment- but there is market for them used to recover some capital if you go with the Doppler ones.
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Much good advice from the above posts. After researching a chrono purchase earlier this year, I opted for the LabRadar for the reasons ConcernedCitizen excellently detailed in his post. Although it stung the wallet a bit, I have been very pleased with it the few times I have used it.
If you opt to go that route, Brownells puts them on sale occasionally, and if your lucky, they also offer 10% off and free shipping at the same time. When I saw the sale and discount combined (around $100 off), plus free shipping, and Brownells no hassle return policy, I jumped.
If you opt to go that route, Brownells puts them on sale occasionally, and if your lucky, they also offer 10% off and free shipping at the same time. When I saw the sale and discount combined (around $100 off), plus free shipping, and Brownells no hassle return policy, I jumped.
I'm wanting to buy one soon, so a couple questions:
Does hanging a Magneto on the end of the barrel result in a different point of impact? I adjust bullet seating depth to accommodate the harmonics of the barrel and group size...does the Magneto affect that?
I hear battery life on the Lab Radar is not good and people buy battery cells to keep the thing running at the range. What has been the experience of you guys that own them?
Does hanging a Magneto on the end of the barrel result in a different point of impact? I adjust bullet seating depth to accommodate the harmonics of the barrel and group size...does the Magneto affect that?
I hear battery life on the Lab Radar is not good and people buy battery cells to keep the thing running at the range. What has been the experience of you guys that own them?
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I ended up getting a deal on the ProChrono. Its been good so far, Im hoping to get it outside soon and test some rifle rounds.
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I know I should not say this but I have had a cheap f1 chrony chrono for 20 years or more and I have not managed to shoot it yet. It has been very reliable and even though I bought a Magneto speed a few years back I still break out the old chrony for instances that the MS wont work. I think I originally paid $89 for it. Definitely a low cost option for those who will use it infrequently.
Shooting Chrony F1 Chronograph - MPN: 1 (F1)
Shooting Chrony F1 Chronograph - MPN: 1 (F1)
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I bought a battery pack from Amazon for less than $15 and it works great. So far, it has way more capacity than I have shooting time in a day. I think I have had my Lab Radar out 4 or 5 times and charged the battery pack once (after the initial charging).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XKJZ55S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
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My experience as well. Given user feedback of short life with the traditional type batteries, rather than replacing them often I bypassed trying that route and went straight to an external battery pack from Amazon. After several range sessions over the past few months, I haven't needed to recharge it yet and it still shows good capacity on the battery's indicator lights.
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concernedcitizen couldn't have said it better.
i have over the course of the last 3 decades shot all four of my chronographs. i went with the labradar and have never regretted it. Sure its not perfect but i don't have to worry about the wind blowing the screens (that's my story and i'm sticking with it) into the line of fire or toppling it over.
if you are going to do an extended shooting session then bring a spare battery pack for additional power.
i have over the course of the last 3 decades shot all four of my chronographs. i went with the labradar and have never regretted it. Sure its not perfect but i don't have to worry about the wind blowing the screens (that's my story and i'm sticking with it) into the line of fire or toppling it over.
if you are going to do an extended shooting session then bring a spare battery pack for additional power.
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