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Okay so first off I understand that dry firing any rimfire firearm is a bad idea and could cause damage. In this case I was wondering about a specific part on my cylinder. With the indents highlighted in the picture below would the striking hammer still impact the empty space or would it stop before then?

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Several Companies make "Snap Caps" for the .22 Rimfire. I would recommend the purchase of enough to fill the Revolver. This is one of the better safe than sorry type of things.
 
Go to Home Depot and buy a box of yellow plastic wall anchors. They fit perfectly in a .22 caliber chamber.
Snap away for pennies. Under $4.00 for a hundred count box.

yellows-golds-knotting-anchors-804112-64_400_compressed.jpg
 
DOH! When I first saw that i thought it was something else.:oops:

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Good idea. I'd heard that before and forgot. I'll have to go down to the hardware store and pick up a couple/three.
 
Some Rimfire Revolvers are better engineered than others. Ruger, Smith and Wesson and Colt all come to mind. But, at the recommendation of All Three, I have been using "Real" Snap Caps for many years. I've also picked up a number of Rimfire Firearms from people who couldn't be bothered. I've also passed up a few that had been "Fixed" using the wrong tools. With the right tools it's generally a simple fix. There's way too many Shadetree Gunmechanics who know just enough to to dangerous and they do lots and lots of damage to some very nice Firearms.
 
It doesn't seem to me that snap caps do much good after the first strike on rimfire. My shotgun snap caps have springs under the faux primer to cushion the firing pin strike. On a rimfire, once the snap cap is dented it won't work unless it is rotated to a different spot. The biggest problem I have seen with dry firing is with coarse ignited guns (guns with the firing pin attached to the hammer) I have seen them break under dry firing. Old break action coarse ignition shotguns were notorious for broken pins.
 
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