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I would start with a current one, my go to has been Sierra. But most all mfg these days put out a good book!
I personally have well over 30-40 manuals going back 100 years. Always on the lookout at estate sales and the such.

The Dillon 650 is a wonderful machine.You can pump out pistol rounds with every stroke of the handle. Dillon powder measures work great. We have used one for years. The most awesome thing about a Dillon, if you have any trouble, Dillon is a phone call away and they send replacement parts for free 99% of the time. Its pretty simple to swap from one caliber to another, or from pistol to rifle.
 
Edit 2: OOPS...lots of new powders now but mostly ignored by me, so the latest edition might be worth buying, remember I'm old and have my go to powders that haven't changed.
:oops:

Ignoring the new powders is fine, but assuming the old powders haven't changed can cause problems. More than one "old" powder has changed in it's burn rate and or compatibility to certain cartridges in the last decade or so.
The stand out for me is BlueDot, which was one of my favorite powder for .41 Mag. Alliant changed the powder slightly 5-6 years ago and now states, "Blue Dot is not to be used in ANY loading of the .41 Mag". I didn't load any more .41s, but noticed some inconsistencies in it's little brother, the .357, so I had to back down known "safe" charges.
Another, 2400 is not quite the same as it was back in the 60s. It's a bit faster than it used to be and the loads shown in newer manuals are a couple of grains off just for this reason.

Yeah, the loading practices havn'et changed in 40-50 years, but assuming the loading data is correct could land you in a bit of trouble.

My word of advice? Assume nothing.
 
I was about to order the Lyman 50th Anniversary Reloading Manual, but thought I'd check in with you guys first. If you've never reloaded before which of the many manuals is a good one to start with?
I know I'll end up with a few of them before long. Reloading for .308, .45acp, and .38Special target loads. What do you think?
If you get the Hornady from John you are probably good to go. Other than that, whatever manual you get - if you are just getting started - don't overlook all that print in the front of the book. All of the major player manuals have good advice and information, explaining steps and theory.
 
I agree. Among the best things a new reloader can do is read the manual.

Most certainly. And even among the expert tutorials at the beginning of the big manuals there are differences in how to build a better mousetrap. It doesn't hurt read and compare different theories. Besides the weather sucks right now. A guy could do worse than sitting by the stove and reading right now.
 
Ignoring the new powders is fine, but assuming the old powders haven't changed can cause problems. More than one "old" powder has changed in it's burn rate and or compatibility to certain cartridges in the last decade or so.
The stand out for me is BlueDot, which was one of my favorite powder for .41 Mag. Alliant changed the powder slightly 5-6 years ago and now states, "Blue Dot is not to be used in ANY loading of the .41 Mag". I didn't load any more .41s, but noticed some inconsistencies in it's little brother, the .357, so I had to back down known "safe" charges.
Another, 2400 is not quite the same as it was back in the 60s. It's a bit faster than it used to be and the loads shown in newer manuals are a couple of grains off just for this reason.

Yeah, the loading practices havn'et changed in 40-50 years, but assuming the loading data is correct could land you in a bit of trouble.

My word of advice? Assume nothing.
yea, but like me. my powder is old too :s0140:
I thought I had a great load with blue dot for 357, until I shot it at zero degrees.
1st shot sounded funny and the gun squeaked when I cocked the hammer for the 2nd shot.
Let the hammer down and opened the cylinder to find the half jacket from the 1st shot stuck in the forcing cone.
major pucker right there:s0001:
:D
 
Free manuals are good, internet . Don't recommend Joe bobs loads, lol . I have several and compared loads and AOL and component combinations . The only thing is to pay close attention to powder loads , some post high and lows , other just post max loads. Eliminate as many variables as you can . Bullet , power case primer combinations are sometimes easy and some not . Good luck be safe !
 
Haven't seen mention of "The Complete Reloading Manual For The (Caliber)" books as pictured on the LH side of ageingstudent's post above. These are great resources for any specific caliber as they just copy all of the info from most of the major reloading component suppliers, bullets and powder.
Just grabbed my .45 Colt one for reference. It includes Accurate, Alliant, Hodgdon, IMR, Scot, and Winchester powders and Hornady, Lyman, Nosler, RCBS, Sierra, and Speer bullets. That's twelve manual's worth of information for that caliber in a $7 book. There isn't any generic loading how-to information, it's all load data. Some of the listings from bullet companies have other powders and some of the powder listings have other bullets so it is the most comprehensive single source available.
These books and the Lyman book are the only ones I know of that have both jacketed and cast bullet loads, if you find yourself using both.
They also publish some specialty books, like the two-volume set for T/C Contender loads.
 
If you get the Hornady from John you are probably good to go. Other than that, whatever manual you get - if you are just getting started - don't overlook all that print in the front of the book. All of the major player manuals have good advice and information, explaining steps and theory.
Offer still stands on free volume 9 Hornady :)
 
If you step up and grab the latest edition of Ken Waters' Pet Loads you'll learn more about hand loading and have a bunch of really great recipes for almost every chambering out there.
 
I have yet to find a manual with two obscure calibers one old, .41ae. And one new, 22 TCM. I know for the .41ae the current practice us to use .40 S&W loads since they are "close". Sure, .010" of an inch may not sound like much, but after the volume difference of a 4 inch barrel is taken into consideration you realize you are being very conservative. I am looking need data for modern powders for a round that ceased production in 1996. Would it be acceptable for me to calculate the difference in volume in percentage, and up the charge accordingly?
 
I have yet to find a manual with two obscure calibers one old, .41ae. And one new, 22 TCM. I know for the .41ae the current practice us to use .40 S&W loads since they are "close". Sure, .010" of an inch may not sound like much, but after the volume difference of a 4 inch barrel is taken into consideration you realize you are being very conservative. I am looking need data for modern powders for a round that ceased production in 1996. Would it be acceptable for me to calculate the difference in volume in percentage, and up the charge accordingly?
The 'One Book One Caliber' manual for 10mm and 40s&w has .41AE loads in the back. It's more of a One Book 3 Caliber manual I guess:p. It has a pink cover and has data for .41AE starting on page 75. Has data from Hornady, seirra, speer, hodgdon, and accurate. I think they cost like 10 or 15 bucks. Cabela's usually has them.
 
The 'One Book One Caliber' manual for 10mm and 40s&w has .41AE loads in the back. It's more of a One Book 3 Caliber manual I guess:p. It has a pink cover and has data for .41AE starting on page 75. Has data from Hornady, seirra, speer, hodgdon, and accurate. I think they cost like 10 or 15 bucks. Cabela's usually has them.
Thank you!! I will look for that right away.
 

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