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Hello NWFA Community,

My birthday is tomorrow, and I'm getting my long awaited Press!!! Yay!!! Anyways I'm like the greenest of the green for reloading. (I've reloaded once before) I'm really looking for. "What you need for starting out" stuff. Like primers, Powder, bullets, ect... Plan on loading .308, 300BLK, 9mm, and .223 some subsonic recipes, along with regular loads to.

Thank you all for the help so far. And thank you for thoes who plan to help.

THANKS!
Koda

P.S. If you have some reloading WHATEVER (dies, powder, primers, ect...) that you want to get rid of. Please let me know!
 
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Just started reloading myself. If you are reloading 308 for a bolt rifle you may want to think about a single stage press instead. I recently bought the RCBS supreme kit from SW and it has quite a bit of good stuff.
 
I always suggest a single stage for beginners so they can get the feel of every step. I get a lot of crap about it from youngsters. I have some Lee 9mm for cheap if you are near Corvallis
 
Just started reloading myself. If you are reloading 308 for a bolt rifle you may want to think about a single stage press instead. I recently bought the RCBS supreme kit from SW and it has quite a bit of good stuff.

I am going to be reloading for the Mossberg mvp LC series. (It's bolt action) I already bought it. So kinda late. But I really need is some more "gear" and definitely recipes
 
The big question is what don't you have? The 550 is a great start just don't let it overwhelm you.

Looks like I'm just going to be getting the RL550. No attachments or anything I don't think. I dont wanna go "overboard" with stuff. Just need what I need to simply make 223, 9, 300, and 308. So whatever that entails without going overboard
 
Are you going to get a scale? How are you going to check the charges?

Recipes are everywhere. I would check your book. Notice that o mentioned a book twice. You should get a book! Ask advice on powders.

I like Hodgdon 4895 for .223 and .308. I like bullseye for 9mm.

Find a recommended load. Start 10-20% down and then test a few and up the load.

You don't need the hottest load usually. Download a little. Reduce the strain on your guns. That's my advice.

If you get to wanting accuracy then let us know your ready for that.
 
Read The ABCs of Reloading and buy a good reloading manual (or two or three).

After you're done.....come back and we'll talk some more.

I'm not trying to be disrespectful. I want you to be SAFE. After reading......you're gonna have more knowledge and/or a better idea, of what's to come.

Yes, I would say that for a beginner......

They should buy a single stage press. Or a press that will allow you to treat it like a single stage. You know the old saying......."Learn to crawl before you walk. Learn to walk before you run."

As a first cartridge to load....IMHO, a straight walled rimmed pistol cartridge (like: .38 Special/.357 mag or a .44 Special/.44 mag) is more forgiving and easier to learn on vs the typical auto pistol cartridge (like: 9mm or 45 ACP) or rimmed bottle necked pistol cartridge (like: 38-40 or 44-40).

After you've mastered pistol cartridges and/or at least know how to correctly adjust dies......then, you might want to try a bottle necked rifle cartridge. That knowledge that you gained with pistol reloading will make it a lot easier for you. Remember, rifle cartridges work at much higher pressure levels. ;)

Course, if you want to try the 9mm first (or the bottle necked rifle cartridge).....there is nothing stopping you. It's only my suggestion.

Happy reading. I'm looking forward to more of your questions. And, I'm sure that others are also looking forward to helping you.

Aloha, Mark
 
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I wrote this up awhile back for a guy that insisted that he only wanted to reload for his AR15. The links are probably dead. If you're confused about the "list." Well, read some book(s) on metallic cartridge reloading. You'll get a better picture. The list for reloading pistol cartridges is shorter. But basically, if you've purchased the tools to reload military 5.56 mm....you got what you need to do pistol cartridges (except for the die set).

OK....so, w/ $500, most any of the major players will have a single station in your price range.

Some have kits that will get you started at a cheaper price than if you paid, piece by piece. Though, you may not like the particular scale, trimmer or primer seating equipment that comes with the kit.

Then, kits will almost always have to be a brand new purchase.

If you buy only a press, you will have some latitude in the pick and choose department. That seems to work out for folks who like to "customize" their bench.

And, it doesn't have to be all one color.

That being said.......the last gun show I attended had some used RCBS Rock Chuckers going for really good prices (was it $60?). BTW, most good quality presses don't wear out. But of course, YMWV. So, you need to check them out.

For a single station, IMHO, the press that sets the standard is the: RCBS Rock Chucker.

Don't get me wrong, a cheaper press is capable of loading fine quality ammo, just like the more expensive press.

Here is an example of a cheap line of single stations from LEE. And, "cheap" isn't used in a bad way.

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If you're in the market for a "kit." I like this one. Because, I like to prime my rifle brass off the press.

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And, a good compromise between a single station and a progressive is a Turret Press........

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Folks have their brand loyalty and personal horror stories. So, beware.

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Just remember to get the equipment that suits the way YOU like to do things.

Say, you're re-loading military 5.56mm brass cases for your AR with a single station press........consider your choice(s) for:

A re-loading manual (or several manuals).
A Press.
F/L Sizer Two Die set (or 3 die set).
Shell holder.
A way to clean dirty cases (liquid cleaner or tumbler/vibratory machine w/ media or a wipe down w/rag).
A way to de-prime military cases (regular die or universal de-capper or hammer and anvil method).
A way to de-crimp military cases (swage or ream).
A way to prime cases (on press or off press).
A way to lube cases (what lube and applied w/fingers or pad & lube or spray lube).
A way to test your re-sized cases (case gauge or actual rifle chamber).
Caliper (though, not absolutely needed if you use a case gauge).
A way to trim cases (hand powered or motorized).
A case de-bur/chamfer tool, if your trimmer didn't do it all in one pass.
A way to measure and dispense powder (dippers or disk measure or hopper/dispenser).
A way to weigh the powder (electronic or balance beam scale)

Powder.
Primers.
Bullets.
And cartridge cases.

I feel that these basic tools and components will do, for simple ammunition production.

Note that: The list above can be shortened or lengthened. There is more than one way to skin a cat.

There are many other tools that one can purchase to do other specific jobs. It's up to YOU to choose which tools you need and which tools you want. Some tools are there to make a job simpler and some are there to hopefully make you "better" ammunition..........though, was the purchase absolutely necessary?

Choose wisely.

Aloha, Mark

PS........prices vary widely, do some shopping at various stores and web sites.
 
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The advantages to a single stage are that you learn each step without rushing to the next... that said, since you have the 550, i would treat it as a single stage, meaning because your just starting out, only perform one action per pull of the lever. Only put in one die -or something to that effect. to get used to what each operation does before moving on to the multi stage operation.

I will agree with others - GET A BOOK - or rater MORE THAN ONE, i have sierra, lee, lyman, hornady data books. (feel free to get last years on sale versions -)) they all will give slightly different info. (regarding actual load Data, diff powders, bullet weights, specialty caliber's etc, but the type of primers, OAL, trim to length will all be the same ) they all describe the reloading process and the preparation needed, its good to have more than just one source, they will explain steps in different words, maybe one will resonate with you more.

id pick one caliber and learn the steps. rather than trying to give em all a go at the same time. it won't take you long, but build small, and stack knowledge and experience on top of each other.

the reason people say to start out on a single stage is that your attention is focused on one action at a time, rather than thinking about 10 things at once. there is less chance for a mental and or mechanical problem.

other little things - brass prep is key
clean the brass, (various ways)
deprime the brass (various ways, and tools needed if NATO) (primer crimp = swage)
maybe you want to clean the primer pockets
maybe you want to debur the flash hole (unless your buying Lapua brass)
a decent set of calipers -
possibly a bullet comparator (useful in measuring Ogive and case shoulder instead of OAL)
case lube / pad (i like RCBS - i tried the one shot and got a stuck case)
brass trimmer - for speed - New Page 1
although little crow makes a cheaper model. (but be warned these type of trimmers index off the shoulder and recommend using a headspace comparator tool to aid in determining consistency -
on the cheap - the Lee Zip Trim with a lee case trimmer (wood ball) + lee case gage work pretty good.

then there is what kinds of die's are you going to get - while Redding makes some awesome stuff, some of my go too die's are Lee - it all depends on how specific you want to get with your reloading. and the your ammo needs.

then there is powder choice- (why you need DATA books) - there are many out there, some double for different loads - but availability will effect buying choices.

primers - id stick with CCI, FED, WIN - I do use Rem 7 1/2's i think for my 223 though. (Once again read why there is a difference between semi auto rifle primers and say ones you normally use for bolt guns) - once again though - availability often dictates.

Brass - WIN is pretty good and cheap , FED (at least FGMM) seems a little softer and wears out quicker in my experience, Lapua is king - but most pricy. (learn the difference between 7.62 x 51 brass vs .308 win)

you might think about making a jig or buying a small chop saw to cut down the 223 into 300 BLK.


go slow, be safe, have fun, shoot more
 
You will do fine with the 550. You can load it 1 case at a time like
a single stage. I started reloading on the Rock Chucker in 1979.
I have owned my 550 for 25+ years. Love the 550. You will
want a separate tool head for each caliber.
 
I feel like a broken record saying this (for those of you too young to know what that means, Google it o_O ) My fear for beginners learning immediately on a progressive is the danger of double charges and squibs. I loaded on a single stage for 40 years before I picked up a progressive... well, that's not quite true, I started loading on a manual index progressive shot shell machine 30 years ago. Even with the shot she'll machine, you really have to keep your focus on the process or you can get embarrassing results. Dont ask me how i know :oops: The 550, being a manual index, you can easily throw a double charge or a squib. Running one shell at a time with one die to learn the basics is a fine idea, but knowing myself I would succumb to the temptation of doing too much too fast. I really think grabbing a single stage is cheap insurance for a beginner. I have 3 progressive presses now and I STILL find myself using my old Rockchucker for working up loads, and I still use it for precision rifle loads just because I KNOW I have everything consistent and correct.
My eldest son is getting into reloading and I am getting him set up for his birthday next month. He has learned the basics at ny side as a kid, but now he's married and wants his own setup. I found a NIB Redding Big Boss press at a gun show for $100. A single stage is something that you will always find a use for, it's great to learn the step by step process of reloading. There is so much going on with a progressive, it takes the full attention of a veteran reloader to not screw up, a beginner is playing Russian roulette with a progressive... perhaps literally :eek:
 

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