357 Magnum Loaders: Questions for you for a new reloader

[WestcoastWes]

Some background. I have successfully reloaded about 80 38 Special loads and about 50 45 ACP Loads. Guns ran good, accurate dependable, etc.
So I loaded up my first 357 Loads and shot exactly ONE. I heard a small pop and did not fire it again. Upon further investigation, I had stuck the round in the end of 4 Inch barrel Model 27-2 Smith and Wesson. Round was stuck about three quarters of an inch from the end of the barrel. I used 12.2 Grains of Accurate #9 Powder with Sierra .357 Semi- Jacketed bullet. Small Pistol Primer by CCI, and a once fired R-P Plated Brass Shell. Most of the powder that stayed with the gun or was left in the shell looked a little brown which seemed un-burned or partially burned to me. There was some shiney unburned powder in the chamber as well. That Accurate number nine shines and shimmers unlike the Power Pistol I was using in the 38 and 45 loads.

I noticed that the primer was proud just a little unlike the others that were seated just right. Could this be the issue?

I did not use Magnum Primers, did not see any reload data saying I had to use them. Should I have used them?

I don't believe that I under-loaded the charge in the shell, although it is a possibiilty since I had been loading 38 Special, although I don't load these two on the same night just for this reason.

The cray thing is I loaded the 6 Sierra bullets just as an experiment, and loaded about 44 other 357 rounds with Hornady XTP 125 Grain but on a seperate night. The six Sierra were oddballs. The odds of me finding the "bad one" first shot is one in six. Good thing I was not playing Russian Roulette.

Last question: Can I use a tap and screw it into the bullet and pull it out of the end of the barrel or will it be stuck beyond what a strong-ish dude can do? Should I use some other method?

Anyone who has reloaded please give me any and all advice you have. Thanks a bunch

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[solv3nt]

It sounds like you forgot to put powder in. Take a small wood dowel and hit it back down gently.

 

[ThePants]

Magnum loads need magnum primers.

I have also had a squib load under the same scenario. I attempted it with standard small pistol primers and a standard pistol powder (CFE pistol).
Pop fiz. Projo stuck in the barrel.

Since then (many 357mag, 44mag, 500mag) and it never happened since. I only use small pistol magnum primers or small rifle primers in 357 magnum, large pistol magnum in 44mag, large rifle magnum in 500 magnum with true slower burning magnum powders Hodgdon h110, Winchester 296, Ramshot Enforcer.

 

[JDubDub]

The book answer is to use what ever primer is called for in the manual you use. Hodgdon calls for magnum primers for all loads with AA9.

That said - I never use magnum primers, but I don't use AA9. I've loaded hundreds of .357 loads with Power Pistol, CFE pistol, 700-x and other powders without any issues.

You didn't mention the bullet weight, so no way of knowing if the load data was good according to the manufacturers. Some powders don't do well with light loads in large cases. More of a problem with older, lower pressure cartridges with large cases (looking at you 45 Colt).

With the problem you described, I'd try magnum primers and check your load data.

If you're going to try getting the stuck bullet out on your own, use a brass rod, not wood. I've seen woods dowels shatter and get stuck in the barrel, making it even harder to clear. Also figure out a way to support the gun by the breach end of the barrel and not the grip or back of the action (seen that one too…was a crying shame to tell someone their revolver was now junk. Drilling and pulling MAY work, but has some potential for disaster. Stuck bullets can require major force and threading a screw into a soft bullet may cause it to expand and get stuck even tighter.

 

[TDH]

Assuming you are using 158gr, your load is below the minimum for Accurate #9. Hodgdon does call out magnum primers for Accurate #9 on their load data. I don't always use magnum primers, but it depends on the powder.

I just saw you mentioned 124 gr bullets, you are way below minimum. Where did you get your load data?
You can verify your load data online for that powder, if you don't have a few sources - https://hodgdonreloading.com/rldc/

ETA: Also make sure when you are done loading, or seating your primer, that it is seated all the way. A lot of times if a round won't fire on the first strike and will on the second, it is being fully seated on the second strike.

I'd also use a brass rod if you have it, you might jack the barrel up with a tap unless you are really steady. Good luck, you'll get there. Good thing you went slow and caught the squib. There is a lot of knowledge here, so ask away, most reloaders want to help

 

[Local Loader]

Some background. I have successfully reloaded about 80 38 Special loads and about 50 45 ACP Loads. Guns ran good, accurate dependable, etc.
So I loaded up my first 357 Loads and shot exactly ONE. I heard a small pop and did not fire it again. Upon further investigation, I had stuck the round in the end of 4 Inch barrel Model 27-2 Smith and Wesson. Round was stuck about three quarters of an inch from the end of the barrel. I used 12.2 Grains of Accurate #9 Powder with Sierra .357 Semi- Jacketed bullet. Small Pistol Primer by CCI, and a once fired R-P Plated Brass Shell. Most of the powder that stayed with the gun or was left in the shell looked a little brown which seemed un-burned or partially burned to me. There was some shiney unburned powder in the chamber as well. That Accurate number nine shines and shimmers unlike the Power Pistol I was using in the 38 and 45 loads.

I noticed that the primer was proud just a little unlike the others that were seated just right. Could this be the issue?

I did not use Magnum Primers, did not see any reload data saying I had to use them. Should I have used them?

I don't believe that I under-loaded the charge in the shell, although it is a possibiilty since I had been loading 38 Special, although I don't load these two on the same night just for this reason.

The cray thing is I loaded the 6 Sierra bullets just as an experiment, and loaded about 44 other 357 rounds with Hornady XTP 125 Grain but on a seperate night. The six Sierra were oddballs. The odds of me finding the "bad one" first shot is one in six. Good thing I was not playing Russian Roulette.

Last question: Can I use a tap and screw it into the bullet and pull it out of the end of the barrel or will it be stuck beyond what a strong-ish dude can do? Should I use some other method?

Anyone who has reloaded please give me any and all advice you have. Thanks a bunch

Odds are that the amount of powder was fine for being on the low end of fps but from what it sounds like from what you said is that a portion of the powder failed to ignite. This was likely due to using a standard primer instead of using a magnum primer(burns hotter), switch to using magnums and you should be fine. AA 9 is listed as a slower burn powder and all data I've got for it lists using a magnum primer for it with 11.9g being the min charge for 125gr bullets.
As for the stuck bullet, as mentioned before use a wood dowel to the hammer the bullet out, an aluminum rod works in a pinch if needed(less chance to damage the barrel vs. steel rod), using a gun vice will make the task easier.

 

[ron]

For removing the stuck bullet use a brass rod. I bought several sizes from Amazon. I would
soak it overnight with some Kroil first. Use a magnum powder like H110 or W296. Also
a magnum primer. The 357/38 was the first cartridge I started reloading for in 1978. I have
loaded many thousands of magnum 357 using 2400 but I now use H110 it is much cleaner.
I have never had a squib or a miss fire of any kind.

 

[ageingstudent]

Some background. I have successfully reloaded about 80 38 Special loads and about 50 45 ACP Loads. Guns ran good, accurate dependable, etc.
So I loaded up my first 357 Loads and shot exactly ONE. I heard a small pop and did not fire it again. Upon further investigation, I had stuck the round in the end of 4 Inch barrel Model 27-2 Smith and Wesson. Round was stuck about three quarters of an inch from the end of the barrel. I used 12.2 Grains of Accurate #9 Powder with Sierra .357 Semi- Jacketed bullet. Small Pistol Primer by CCI, and a once fired R-P Plated Brass Shell. Most of the powder that stayed with the gun or was left in the shell looked a little brown which seemed un-burned or partially burned to me. There was some shiney unburned powder in the chamber as well. That Accurate number nine shines and shimmers unlike the Power Pistol I was using in the 38 and 45 loads.

I noticed that the primer was proud just a little unlike the others that were seated just right. Could this be the issue?

I did not use Magnum Primers, did not see any reload data saying I had to use them. Should I have used them?

I don't believe that I under-loaded the charge in the shell, although it is a possibiilty since I had been loading 38 Special, although I don't load these two on the same night just for this reason.

The cray thing is I loaded the 6 Sierra bullets just as an experiment, and loaded about 44 other 357 rounds with Hornady XTP 125 Grain but on a seperate night. The six Sierra were oddballs. The odds of me finding the "bad one" first shot is one in six. Good thing I was not playing Russian Roulette.

Last question: Can I use a tap and screw it into the bullet and pull it out of the end of the barrel or will it be stuck beyond what a strong-ish dude can do? Should I use some other method?

Anyone who has reloaded please give me any and all advice you have. Thanks a bunch

When trying out a new load in any gun, you should research it as much as possible by cross referencing between as many manuals as you can. I like to use 3 reputable sources. Manuals do not often agree on components and charge weights.

Most of us here have an open door policy if you have questions or are confused by the data. Many of us will perhaps have experience with the exact same load in the exact same platform. This forum is an excellent resource.

I hope this is helpful in the future. You have some good suggestions above. It's up to you to do the choosing.

 

[ron]

When trying out a new load in any gun, you should research it as much as possible by cross referencing between as many manuals as you can. I like to use 3 reputable sources. Manuals do not often agree on components and charge weights.

I agree cross reference several reloading manuals. have one of these for most calibers I reload.

 

[TDH]

I agree cross reference several reloading manuals. have one of these for most calibers I reload.
View attachment 1843174

I did check the Hornady manual, and I think minimum load was 11.9.

 

[Mikej]

Manuals do not often agree on components and charge weights.

The way I've come to look at it is, the books are just giving their results with the loads they choose to print. They don't necessarily disagree, they just chose different, safe, acceptable results to print.
The book publishers certainly must have tried combinations they chose not to print A quick look in the Speer 14 book showed AA9 with a minimum charge of 12.6 up to14.6 for a 125gr jacketed bullet, with a STANDARD/non-magnum primer. Then data for 135gr, 158gr and finally 178 grain bullet. They show data for the 178 gr WITH a magnum primer. A quick glance at data that is printed in the Lyman 49 book shows their data using magnum primers in all .357mag loads, with all powders.
As mentioned, you didn't say what bullet weight you used in the stuck bullet? If you were using anything under 170 grain, according to the Speer 14 book, you were under charged. Someone mention you may have had no powder in the shell? I did that. In my case the primer only put the bullet about 3/4" into the barrel. I'll reiterate, get three sources for data so you have a better feel for what's going on.

 

[ageingstudent]

View attachment 1843176
View attachment 1843177
I did check the Hornady manual, and I think minimum load was 11.9.

Quite a diffrence from the Hornady manual indeed.

Years ago I tried that AA#7 load in my 27-2 from that page exactly with that bullet, and thought it was too hot from the start load.

For my gun at least.

 

[Mikej]

View attachment 1843176
View attachment 1843177
I did check the Hornady manual, and I think minimum load was 11.9.

^^^^There ya' go! Exactly what I'm talking about!

 

[TDH]

Quite a diffrence from the Hornady manual indeed.

Years ago I tried that AA#7 load in my 27-2 from that page exactly with that bullet, and thought it was too hot from the start load.

For my gun at least.

Yeah it did seem like a big difference. I was surprised, I find they are usually playing in the same ballpark.

 

[RVTECH]

Someone mention you may have had no powder in the shell? I did that.

So did I once - or an undercharge that resulted in a 'squib' and I had to push the bullet out of the barrel.

Regardless always double check your powder levels in the charged cases before seating bullets.

 

[2ndtimer]

Some other questions:
Was your Accurate No. 9 powder recently new production, or might it have been old? Old powder may have deteriorated to the point it failed to fully ignite. A magnum primer MAY have improved ignition to at least get the bullet clear of the barrel.

Did you use a heavy roll crimp on the cases? The heavy crimp helps the slower burning powder to fully burn before the bullet leaves the case. Too light a crimp releases the bullet before all the powder is fully ignited, blowing some powder unburned out the barrel cylinder gap and leaving some in the barrel. The crimp is not as critical with faster burning powders used in .38 Spec and .45 ACP.

What bullet weight were you loading? If it was a 125 gr, your charge was way light. (Sierra 6th Edition starts at 15.4 gr for a 125 gr JHP!). I find Hornady more recent manuals almost too conservative to the point where many of their starting/lower loads won't even cycle the actions successfully in my semi automatic pistols.

I had a squib load myself decades ago. Fortunately for me, it was a lack of powder in a .38 special and driving the soft lead bullet out with a wooden dowel and a few taps with a hammer took care of it. Soaking it with a penetrating oil made it messier, but easier.

A lot of manuals recommend magnum primers for all their listed loads for .357 Magnum. Some manufacturers of powder claim they are REQUIRED (Win 296/H-110), some claim they aren't necessary (2400, Power Pro 300-MP), but I tend to use them with slower burning powders, even if the manufacturer claims they aren't needed. With mid range powders like Unique, Power Pistol, BE-86, CFE- Pistol, standard seems to work fine.

 

[Catfishmoon]

You scored excellent on the primary lesson in this scenario; when something occurs that seems out of the ordinary, stop and investigate immediately before proceeding... You did not shoot another round off before you realized there was a squib in the barrel.
As far as removing the squib, circumstances can vary. It could come out easily with light taps using a wood dowel or many, many hard hits using a large vise, large ball peen hammer, a tapered steel punch and lubricant.
I have done it both ways.

 

[Mikej]

Years ago I tried that AA#7 load in my 27-2 from that page exactly with that bullet, and thought it was too hot from the start load.

I did the same kind of thing. I had data that said H110 at 20grs was a middle of the road load for 125 gr jacketed bullets in .357 magnum. Max was a compressed load. Magnum primers were used in their data. That load rattled my world in a S&W 686. And shooting those in my Winchester model 94 AE (16" barrel) was pretty stout and VERY loud. I think I shot 15 0f them and pulled the rest. Down loaded to 16gr and now it's much better. Still plenty of power but much more pleasant.

 

[orygun]

I had squib loads that were the result of not enough powder in the case. I found unburned and partially burned powder.
I knew it wasn't the primer, which was a small rifle primer. I was trying to make powder puff loads in a 357 Maximum case. It didn't work. Don't do that.

Whatever happened in the OP's case, the result was incomplete combustion. I've never used AA powders to know what's appropriate as for charges or primers.

I'd get a brass rod that was close to the bore size and drive the bullet back out the way it came in.

 

[gmerkt]

I knew an RSO who would fire SINGLE stuck bullets out of revolver barrels when range shooters came to him with their problems. He would take a cartridge, remove the projectile, hold the arm in a way so the powder didn't spill out internally, and fire the stuck bullet on out.

Here is a post that I've copied from another site, The High Road:

"Well, you can shoot out a stuck bullet using 1/3 to 1/2 the normal charge. NO BULLET! And NO BLANK, commercial or mililtary - blank powder is too quick.

And no, shooting out an obstruction with a reduced charge will NOT blow up the gun, bulge the barrel, or any other of those bad things. In fact it involves less danger to the barrel than hammering on a piece of drill rod (which I have seen recommended). And it will work with a revolver.

I have done it and so have a lot of other gunsmiths. When the customer asks "How did you get it out", the gunsmith just smiles and says, "We have our ways.""

I've never done this myself. Also remember, the revolver design has a built-in safety feature called the cylinder gap. The one time I had a bullet stuck in a barrel was an old .32-20, longer barrel, modern jacketed bullet, and it had a badly burned away forcing cone. Too much gap, too much gas escaped to have enough pressure to propel the bullet on out. However, the barrel was also badly worn so driving the bullet out with a rod was relatively easy.